Needle Bearing - Yes, Replace It (ECGS)

This is a great point about the axle nut. I couldn’t get mine off, and luckily found a YT video with a version of the suspension disassembly that permitted removal of the CV from the diff without axle nut removal. It’s actually better this way, in my opinion, because the CV is supported the whole time by the wheel assembly. Plenty of space to operate.

 

Can you possibly find it and post the link, very interested.

 

Unbolt the wheel bearing hub from the spindle.

 

Don't have to do that... Just drop the 2 lower ball joint bolts and the tie rod end and the spindle swings free with axle attached.

 

In my opinion, this is a no-brainer upgrade. It's relatively simple and only requires basic tools, and you can always sell the puller after you do the job. I did my 07 Taco at around 180k and it was still in decent shape. My 19, running 35's at 45k seems to be still running strong, but I know it won't last much longer.

 

We're talking about someone who lacks the tools and/or mechanical ability to be able to remove a spindle nut...and you recommended they wrestle with a ball joint and tie rod? No, I'm sticking with my response.

 

I couldn’t find it. But if memory serves, I disconnected the tie rod end, the sway bar, and the two bolts at the knuckle. Left the brake caliper installed. That allows the wheel assembly to swing out once the CV is removed from the diff.

 

I did a 1.5" lift via 5100's and 3AAL on my '23 TRD OR at 520 miles and replaced the needle bearing with ECGS while I had it apart. I read too many stories and have seen too many videos about failures to ignore the possible problem. I consider this a must do for even a mildly lifted truck. Yes, some(possibly many) folks get lucky. But ask yourself one question... do you feel lucky..... well do you... punk?

 

I'm just saying going the two lower ball joint bolts and tie rod end doesn't require any special sockets... Cheaper and faster

 

I agree with this. The photo I posted on post #268 shows what your explaining. The brake hose bracket bolt, axle nut, LBJ bolts and sway bar end link are all that has to come off. The axle nut is the only one that might be considered tricky due to the breaking it loose and torqueing it to 174 ft/lbs.

Also, here's a photos that shows what I used as an extension to drive the bushing in. I think the ECGS insertion tool likely has a smaller diameter shaft so this socket would be smaller on it.

 

Just gotta have the monster 35mm socket for the axle nut.

 

FYI, a 1-3/8" works just as well and is what I used. 35mm = 1.378".

 

I don't remove the axle from the hub. I leave it attached and swing the whole assembly out and forward so it is out of the way. That way you only pull the two lower ball joint bolts, disconnect the tie rod, disconnect the caliper and wire it out of the way, pull the rotor, disconnect ABS plug disconnect the sway bar end then the spindle with axle can move out of the way

 

That may be a good way too. It's great to have options so folks can match the method to what tools they have on hand.

 

Are you serious, is a 35mm nut? Every other car/truck I had used a 36mm nut. Maybe I'll just hope that I never need to change it.

 

It's 35mm for sure.

Edit; torque to 173 ft pounds. Do not be tempted to use an impact!

 

This

the only justification I can see for not doing it is your suspension is completely stock and has never been worked on, or you plan to keep the truck at stock height forever.

 

More than one way to skin a cat. I like this method too, might do it when I knock out my 19 here soon.

 

All this talk about the hastle of buying a $12 35mm socket when we are spending $172 on the kit to install?!? All the more reason to own a 35mm socket IMHO.

 

Anyone know if ecgs is the only one who sells/makes the needle bearing removal tool? looked on their site and im guessing because they use fed ex, the shipping is kinda pricey... $62 for shipping for the clamshell busing, removal tool and intaller tool