Brake job PSA and BS

Thought I'd post some pics from the latest shit show I've gotten involved in. Front brakes on my 17 Taco. Thought this one would be a breeze, it's by far the newest vehicle I've worked on, and these are simple brakes to do really.

Got off to a rough start though, I hate to admit. Broke the bolt off in the spindle for the brake line bracket, then realized I bought the wrong sized bolt for brake rotor removal.

I bought OEM rotors from my Toyota dealer, and used those as reference. They take M7-1.00 bolts

The ones my truck came with took M8-1.25, which necessitated another hardware store run which blew another 45 minutes or so.

Grabbed an easy out to dig out the broken brake line bolt, that failed too. Got in real tight then just tore loose without removing the remaining bolt. So I drilled it larger and broke my 3/16" bit off.......one of those days I guess.

Stopping for dinner.

Going to have to run and pick up more drill bits, a bolt for the brake line. Hope the other side goes smoother.

 

Good luck drilling through a drill bit. I’ve had better luck with this style of extractor (not this specific brand).

You can try some good left hand drill bits too.

$40 Drill Hog USA 6 Pc Square Easy Out Set Straight Screw Extractor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VXFR8Y

 

You might have to end up doing a helicoil, looks like that's gunna be tough to get out! Good luck though.

 

use a little heat.

 

Thanks for recommendation, I was looking at those when I bought the other style today. Wondered how they would work.

I did manage to get the bit out, that was fortunate. I worked it loose and it came out of there.

Heat probably would have been the best choice but I don't own a torch. With my luck today I'd probably accidentally burn down the house anyway.

Went back to the hardware store for a third time today only to have them lock the doors as I was approaching. Either it was quitting time for them or they wanted to save me from digging myself into a deeper hole haha. Ahh, it's just as well I guess. I'm done for tonight.

I need another 3/16" bit to replace the broken one, and either a B or a 15/64 bit to drill the hole to so I can tap it for a M7-1.00. That appears to be what the original bolt diameter was and what fits the bracket best. Then finally reassemble that side.

 

Brutal! Those days are no fun, glad you’re handling it well. Tomorrow is another day, may it be better in every way.

 

Thank you!

 

aaaaand just like that I am hesitating on my weekend project. That's brutal, good luck.

 

I wish you better luck than I'm having on it. I see you're in California so I'd imagine you won't have the rusty fasteners to contend with. Make sure you have a pair of M8-1.25 bolts if your rotors are original, makes the rotor removal step easy.

 

What made me nervous is the rust you've got looks just like mine. Thanks for the heads up! Hopefully tomorrow is a quick turn around for ya to enjoy the weekend.

 

(Without burning down the garage )

A simple plumbers torch kit only costs around $35 from any hardware store or even The Mart and makes a big difference on rusted fasteners.

Sure it isn't as fast (or nice) as a full on Oxy/Acetylene kit but doesn't cost near as much either.

 

Thanks for the tip on this!

 

All that rust… sorry bud. My Florida truck was like new when I did the brakes at 80k.

 

Road salt is hell on vehicles, that's for sure. Some more than others though, my wife's Honda CR-V is 14 years old and honestly looks better underneath. I wash them both regularly and do the undercarriage on both throughout the winter......you can't really tell by looking at my trucks chassis though. My truck has 70k on it currently btw.

It's unfortunate really, it won't be mileage or wear that does my truck in. Eventually it will fail inspection from a rusty frame. I figure if it happens within 12 years I'll have it replaced under warranty, and if it happens after I'll buy a different truck.

 

Buttoned up side one this morning, they let me in at the hardware store this time haha.

Picked up a 15/64" drill bit, 3/16" drill bit, and two M7x1.0 bolts 1/2"long with washers (hoping I won't need the second one).

Got home and opened the hole up to 15/64", then cautiously tapped it. Lots of oil on the tap and went very slowly. Confirmed the bolt fit and then reassembled side one.

Forgot we have plans this afternoon so I guess this will drag a little longer. Will likely finish it up on Monday.

 

If you don't want to run into that problem again, use some antiseize. A little on the bolt. A little on the inner circumference of the rotor. Don't need a lot at all. I use the copper instead of nickel based for heat but I'm pretty sure the nickel base temp ratings fall into whatever heat range the rotor will see. I use antiseize on just about any nut or bolt I remove and install that gets exposed to the elements. Breaking bolts turns a 20 minute job into a 4 hour job in no time flat.

 

Agreed. And done.

I do the same.

 

I find it hard to believe Toyota would use an M7 bolt anywhere….extremely uncommon in the JIS world.

the Germans use them in assemblies they don’t want you to service, but that’s about it.

 

Great work! Always satisfying doing this work yourself knowing you saved money and it was done properly.

 

It's possible it was M8, but I didn't have a part of the original bolt to measure as it stayed in the spindle. M7 fit the bracket nicely and appeared to span the original broken off bit in the hole....however I didn't compare an M8. And I agree it is an uncommon size, however it worked out nicely.

Thank you! Can't wait to get her all back together.