Does anyone know where I can find the truck's 3G/LTE module?

Curious how things have been since pulling the fuse apart from losing the hands free mic?

Have you done any further testing to determine data is not being transmitted?

 

No - Apple doesn't collect your location in an identifying capacity.

I can't speak for Google but this is absolutely false for iOS. All location data sent to Apple servers is anonymous and cannot be used to identify you. Also, Apple does not sell your data to third parties. The *exception* to this is if you use a non-Apple, third party application on your iPhone and give it access to your location.

Toyota's reluctance you're referring to was specifically about Android Auto, not CarPlay lol

 

Would anyone here happen to know if pulling DCM fuse disables right speaker on non-JBL models?

On Rav4s it looks like DCM only sits inline on right speaker for JBL equipped systems, and is wired parallel on non-JBL: https://www.rav4world.com/threads/b...pioneer-head-unit.299341/page-11#post-2765153

I don't have a Taco yet, hopefully ordering one this week with a manual (and hence no JBL).

(And just for the record, I'm not concerned about being tracked by the gubmint, I just don't want everything about me stored on another company's servers and/or sold/shared to "marketing partners" and malware authors.)

 

So any idea what the "Clearance Warning ECU" is?

 

I opted out of the location/driving history sharing to targeted partner insurance providers.

I will not have the OBD2 dongle monitors that look for hard acceleration, late braking, enthusiastic cornering, etc in my car and share it with the insurance companies.

 

It's part of the parking sonar system; it's in the center of the dash.
From the FSM:
-Judges the approximate distance between the vehicle and an obstacle based on the signals from the ultrasonic sensors, and sends it to the multi-information display
-Judges the approximate distance between the vehicle and an obstacle based on the signals from the ultrasonic sensors and sounds the buzzer

 

Where did you opt out of this? I didn't opt in or out of anything when I bought the truck and signed the paperwork. Afterwards I looked into the connected services website but never cared to download the mobile app. A year later and some of the services have "expired" according to Toyota as I do not intend to pay for them. Curious if I can go the step further and "opt out".

 

I believe it was when I set up the mobile app, it had things you could agree/disagree to.

 

Do I need to do both "A" and "B", or is it just either one?

Thanks again for all the detailed data on this mod!

 

Regardless, ordered this T-harness to get the mic cable to the back of the head unit:
https://dsimsolutions.com/products/3rd-gen-tacoma-cab-light-switch-t-harness

 

So I have had the fuse removed for a year now, and just got around to changing these connections, and having hands free phone again, plus the speakers all working.

Yes, both A & B were necessary, the missing signal wire at R49 (middle connector on back of the radio head), is necessary for the hands free mic. This wire should be a shielded wire too. What I did was cut the ends off of an RCA cable, that I had laying around, it was about 4 ft, and a nice smaller size shielded wire. just peel back the shield copper an inch or so, and solder it to one of the shielding wires at the radio end, identified by being bare wire going into the R49 connector, with a little factory black tape on them. ONLY connect shielding at one end, you do not want a ground loop. The shielding should dead end.

Also, at R49, I did not have any pins, and need one for this new wire to #23, but I notice there are two pins on R49 that are shielding grounds. I removed one of the shielding pins, cut off the shield wire and re-used the pin at #23 instead. Then soldered all 3 shield wires to the remaining shield ground wire. When i cut the existing shield wire off the pin, I left the wire 3/8 long, so I could solder the new comm. wire to that tail, and not mess up the pin itself.

Just a warning, these pins and connector bodies are small, I used glasses and a magnifying glass, and it was still a challenge to figure out how to remove wires and get these connectors back together. Be sure to have plenty of time, and plenty of light. This is not something to be rushed.

I did not find connector IN1, so I removed pin #5 at the DCM, and wire wrapped a new shielded wire here, routed up to the radio.

To possibly stave off concerns for my wire connections, I put some thought into this, and used an extremely fine copper wire (26awg stranded I think) from a computer ribbon cable, and by leaving the insulation in it for a handle, was able to wrap the connection Very tight with like 30 or 40 wraps, then just twisted the tow ends clipped it and folded it, then taped teh connection. Thought about heat shrink, but would be trouble removing it without damaging the pins. I believe this will last the life of the truck, in the cab.

Anyhow, works perfectly, and if i ever want to reverse it, I left all the other pins in tack, removed them from the bodies and made wire wound connections, solder-less; so they can be reversed without soldering or splicing (though would need to cut or remove the new pin at R49 #23 as described above.)

 

Is this really only on 2020 models? Not 2021-2023? Seems strange they would remove it for 2021+

 

It’s on all 2020s and on. 2020 was the first year of constant connectivity.

 

I am not sure. Mine is 2020. I thought it might be only on vehicles that have the cell phone service, for lock-outs or crashes, Toyota version of Onstar; but find it interesting to learn that on this truck, there is no Navigation; yet i learned it does have a GPS locator, and the owners manual spells out that There is a Black Box Data recorder (2009 truck has this also), and adds that this information is shared with Toyota on some regular basis.

of course, without this module connected, the phone app is useless, so remote start is gone and it will not text you when you need the oil changed. I never loaded that app anyway. I added remote start, where I just lock the doors 3x in a row; works great.

I am happy to be without.

 

Where are the diagrams coming from that are on this thread?

 

https://techinfo.toyota.com/

 

They are also available from AlData, where you can subscribe for a month or for a year.

 

Thank you, I'm still running around with this half done. Need to get after it already!

 

I've also been running around with the fuse out and my mic not working for a year now. As soon as (if?) it stops raining I'm going to finish my yearly maintenance and also finish the bypass.

Pin 23 on R49 is a 5v power source on ACC, so any way you can get that to pin 5 on D37 should be fine. I'm going to try connecting D37-P5 to the USB VCC line (R53-P1) and D37-P23 to the USB shield (R53-P5). I already have the USB port rerouted to my dash mount so this isn't hard to tap in to.

I don't want to mess with my factory harness, although if I had the female pin for the OEM R49 connector I'd just use that. I have an Anytime Camera harness and those have extra lines in them, but the pin styles are different and not compatible even though the actual connectors mate I couldn't de-pin a wire from that and use it in the OEM connector.

As this is just a power line and not data transmission I'm not sure how important the shielding on the wire from the head unit to the DCM really is. The MIC+ and MIC- lines are shielded in the factory wiring so I believe that's good enough. As long as D37-P23 gets connected to ground so the wiring from the MIC to the DCM also remains shielded.