Bilstein 6112

I took my 6112,s down from 6-6 with a .25” shim on driver and set them at 4-3 and put a .75” spacer on each side to keep my height and WOW! Way better. Rides more like my tundra did and no more annoying clunking top outs. And before anyone gets on me about wrecking them from angles and blah blah blah, when they blow up I’ll just get extended travel Elkas. But it’s like riding on clouds again.

 

I did mine about 1.5 years ago and it was easy. Just need to use a big ball joint press tool.

 

curious how often this happens.

Mines are also done, i need to replace mine. just curious how long they are lasting people. But then again.......everyone drives their truck differently.

i have about 40k miles on mine, and they are shot.....but i am not nice to them.

have a week off coming off. going to change those bushings. steering rack bushings. UCA ball joints. And thinking about the LCA as well.

 

I beat on mine pretty good and they usually last about a year.

 

Has anyone had a spring crack on their 6112? I just discovered the second set of springs have also cracked.
First were the standard 600#. Now a crack on the Eibach 650#. Either way I think Eibach makes most of the springs for many manufacturers.
It is likely due to corrosion. Wondering if I should coat them or use a sock on the next set. I live in a highly corrosive environment.

 

Around 2 years for each. It is unacceptable. But I'm not sure I would not have the same issue with other manufacturers offering. I had read that ADS are one of the more resilient brands. Not sure if that is true.
Otherwise I do like the 6112. Not sure I want to step up to the next tier with Kings, ADS, or similar. Those 8112s look very nice but even more $.

 

I asked around to a few vendors, wheelers and I think I asked headstrong was the second. Both advised with being DCLB and my other armor weight I am kinda in between but 650 should suffice. They said usually the deciding factor in suggestions is if you are fully armored its between the front bumper style. Full steel = 700, pipe or winch plate only = 650.

If you only have a bumper with no winch and no skids/sliders then 650 may be stiffer but will have you set pretty for either adding a winch in the future or sliders/skids

 

It is not bad at all. I did mine last year. I followed this youtube video and it was easy peasy.... Even though it is on a 2004, it is the same principal. https://youtu.be/oAVdOhvpBbg

I wheel pretty hard about once or twice a month as well as have my truck as my daily driver. I went through about 50k before I replaced mine and I am expecting another 50k before my next ones need to be changed out. I am also on the top clip with 650 springs.

 

Thanks for the share. Pretty much how I figured it would go, even have the same HF press to use. Also say the same about longevity, as the daily driver and the weekly wheeling they take a good toll. Cheap replacement to keep your shocks happy.

 

Agreed. Make sure that you find and use an 1 1/8 socket....it really is the perfect size, and when you go to press the new one in, put the new bushing in the freezer for a couple of hours to shrink up the metal going around it so it goes in a lot easier.

 

How many miles do these shocks last?

I'm coming up to 100,000 on mine, and am debating between either changing the bushing or replacing the entire shock.

 

higher performance shocks seem to last less
I’m not sure if 6112/5160 is a middle ground exception
Aren’t these rebuildable though?

You’d probably feel it or test. Don’t they have lifetime warranty?

 

Good intel on the freezer, would have not thought about that.

Ive had mine on the truck for about 2-1/2yrs or so, they have taken a beating and wish i had a milage to compare. Replacing the bushing is way cheaper than a new shock imo, Depending on the quality of the shock and abuse of course.

 

Bilstien finally got back to an email and provided a part number for the bushing in the bottom eyelet. E4-GV2-Z024A02 is what they recommend.. Found some comparable ones from other vendors under $12 a bushing

 

Talking with no experince, just what i read online. Seems that these will last a while. About 100k from what i read. Just keep an eye out for leaking. Make sure they are dry.

What i do when i think something is wrong.....in the rear, i will unbolt the shock from the axle and cycle it. Feel the resistance compressing it and then seeing how it comes back. If im correct, when a shock fails, it will collapse quickly at some point during compression.....or not rebound.

There is a place in san deigo that rebuilds the 6112. i called them about a year ago....and it was pretty expensive. something like $250 per shock. might as well get new ones at that point.

 

don’t do a block. Set them at 10/8 and do a 1.5” add a leaf.

 

Pretty much. Whether you get more of the same or upgrade after.
So it's swapped and something always on the truck.
Can't really drive the truck with them removed being rebuilt

 

I hear ya with the AAL vs a block, I’m gonna run 265/70r17’s though and don’t want my tires looking small. I hate that look but definitely don’t want 285’s. I’d probably run the 8/6 before I went higher in the back. I’m gonna wait until I get the tires and see how it looks first

 

good choice. Go 8/6. It’ll even ride better at 8/6