Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Nice work! How much boost does the 84mm pulley make?

 

Thank you!

Regarding boost numbers: to be perfectly honest the boost numbers aren’t really anything we worry about.. I know..

Here’s why.. The environmental conditions (elevation, temp, humidity, baro) will affect the number observed. So what I see here at these conditions will be different than what you see Unless they’re comparable DA:

Performed at 4226ft ASL, 67.17°F, 25.51in-hg, 18.14% humidity.

Vehicle setup and tuning (to a lesser degree) can impact what you observe on the gauge. The fact the system is “fixed” in that the blower rpm relative to engine rpm is what is primarily going to determine boost pressure. If we’re comparing similar rotor/engine rpm ratios, we’re comparing things as apples to apples as possible. We can’t manipulate a wastegate like you can on a turbo, so as long as we’re running the same pulley size we’re looking at the same “stuff”.

But the real reason we don’t “care” about boost numbers is really centered around the OEM control strategy. It doesn’t know or care about boost. The only thing these ECU’s care about is is airflow; that’s what matters.

 

at that power level id like to see the gains of going with some dump tubes.

 

I have a set.

Will see what I can do about getting them on.

 

Awesome! Not doubting or anything like that, was just curious! What gears did that truck have?

I see a comment about the dumptubes which I’d love to see as well since I just picked up a catless set. My truck is n/an and will be for a few more years…just enjoy learning and what’s out there and what to expect.

Congrats on the accomplishment!

 

No worries at all! Apologies if the reply came off a bit defensive.

The truck has stock 3.90's. It's literally stock other than the listed modifications with the exception of a "Pro" grille and Z Precision cup holder Stock wheels/tires, stock air filter, stock spark plugs, etc.

If it wasn't so cold here in UT w/ snow on the ground, I'd probably be a bit more eager to get the dumb tubes in and get numbers for the full-exhaust.. I wonder if there's another 10-15 there? You guys have any predictions/guesses?

 

no doubts about dump tubes making more power. all impressive. I'm out of the dump tube game but do have gears (4.88's) with modified air intake (dual input at the box pre filter) full TRD Pro exhaust. Like all SC owners I like the power but maybe unlike many I have to consider Air Emission testing every year beginning this Fall which includes inspection to ensure OEM emission devices have not been removed or tampered with. Thus no dump tubes for me. I'm satisfied if my Tune passes emission testing, and if there are improvements to performance along the way (power, fuel efficiency, torque and shifting) I will be a happier camper. So for all you Tuners out there making our Gen3 Maggy Superchargers perform to their potential I say Thank You and keep pushing to make your products perform to their potential!

 

All good! I’d say 20-25 increase

 

My only thought in asking about boost numbers is because the Tacoma isn't an Evo it didn't come with forced induction. If I were to change the pulley I want to weigh out the pressure or risk to gain. I still want this truck to hit 100k without engine problems. 5 to 6 psi isn't enough but, 27psi is too much in a drastic example. Also this is the science behind the product that you're selling, and as potential customer I'd like to know what I'm getting. $700 dollars for your tune is a decent amount of money.

Lastly, I really appreciate the time and money you're investing in the work you're doing.

 

I completely understand where you're coming from and the concerns you have, they are valid and reasonable. I'd encourage you to stick with the stock pulley size if longevity is your primary concern. Thank you very much for the kind words. We really do enjoy sharing the data and helping folks make informed decisions. Sure, we love to "show off" what we're able to accomplish, but from day one we've always had a public education as part of our mission statement and helping folks make informed decisions is a part of that.

With that said, I don't see any sign that the 90/87mm pulleys will drastically affect the longevity of this motor. Frankly, no one here can say how long a 2GR-FKS will last on an 84mm pulley as this is (at this time) uncharted territory for all of us. At this time, I'm not seeing any evidence this combination is more than the engine is comfortable with. It's going to really come down to the way you use/drive the vehicle and how you maintain it.

From the prior posts in this thread I gather most really like the midrange grunt this system (and the pulley upgrades) provide. Using the engine in that matter even with the 84mm pulley, under those loads I do not see any sign there will be any reduction in longevity of this engine. It's the sustained high RPM/High Load or frequent visits to the top end of the rev range that the jury is still out on. I was not worried making the pulls, and the truck is a pleasure to drive on the street at "responsible" RPM's. At the time of this posting, our production files will not rev to 7000RPM.

I should also note, that we're not offering a tune for the 84mm pulley at this time until we can further evaluate. It's well documented that the 90mm and 87mm pulleys are pretty much vetted under all conditions. We've tested in the Mountains to the Tropics and between. I honestly do not believe the 84mm will be much different, though we will likely have some prerequisites for the 84mm specific tune. I'll talk more on that when we've compiled the data.

I'll compile some data on the pulley sizes for you guys. It just needs documented at the end of the day..

Our tune is $400 if you self install. If you're visiting one of our retailers, costs will likely be more however.

Hope that is helpful!

 

Seeking advise and knowledge on Water Meth injection, and where best to install the jets, with a SC?

I have a 2020 Tacoma with Magnuson SC, and I often tow a trailer, and even with towing 5-6K pounds up over mountains, I tend to be relentless with keeping at the speed limit. For instance, I towed the 2020 taco home on a trailer, over the mountains of Rt 2, basically from Boston to Albany, with many stints of being floor boarded for up to 15 minutes or so at a time. The tow vehicle was a 2009 NA Tacoma AT v6. Now it is the 2020's turn at towing.

I have an electric fan, Upgraded radiator and have sealed up the fan support to promote adequate cooling. I am installing a set of JamesT fuel rails and am seriously considering adding Water Meth injection, for performance and safety enhancement of the motor.

The big question that I need to answer, is where is it best to install the water jets?
- Before the SC is easy, but can have a negative effect of SC life-span. This is also injecting into a cool airstream, so may not vaporize as much WM; meaning a reduced cooling benefit per oz of WM Juice. (Is also before the intercooler, talk about that later)
- between the SC and the intercooler; has hottest air, so will best vaporize the WM and take full advantage of the heat of extraction of the phase change, BUT Being before the intercooler; this seems like it has the reverse potential of the intercooler being cool enough to condense some vaporized WM back into droplets, and drip it into the manifold below.
- After the intercooler, in the intake manifold, seems like this might be tricky to get an even distribution to each cylinder, and the cooler air T after the intercooler, will not evaporate the WM as well here.
- Port WM injection, again cooler air here already, and installation would be complicated (not even certain it is possible), plus with 6 injectors and such a small HP engine, these jets will be soooo small, adding concern for jet clogging.

I am thinking the best place is probably to inject immediately after the SC, before the internal intercooler?
- Hottest air, so maximum vaporization of WM; yielding the greatest benefit per ounce of juice.
- This will cool the air T entering the intercooler. Possibly will cool the charge enough to minimize condensation on the intercooler (possible small enough delta T to not reach the dew point)
- This will likely provide an even distribution of the WM to each cyl; except for any dripping of condensate, if there is any.
- Jets will still be in a serviceable location, better than Port Injection or after the intercooler; Probably not quite as easy as before the SC.

All input is appreciated!

 

IMO, do it once, do it right. 6 ports in the lower Magnuson manifold, if they will fit.

 

If installing in Mag. lower manifold, then the Mag T-sensor will not see the effect. How does this affect the tune?

WM injection, requires tuning changes to take full advantage, but it seems that injecting before the T-sensor would provide some benefit to varying conditions; and if the WM fails, then this would provide some margin of safety, since the T-sensor would see the higher intake T, and provide some enrichment/timing adjustment.

What are the advantages of injecting at each port?

 

IMO, our main concern is equal distribution to all cylinders, thus an injector for each. While the injected mixture should flash off into a gas, the real world along with the intake tract on our Maggy Superchargers are not perfect… and with the fuel system running in the upper portion of the range, it just seems like a prudent decision. If someone knows otherwise, I’m all ears.

If you are after every last hp, ideally yes, the temp probe will probably need to read after the injection point. If you want durability while leaning into the throttle for extended periods coming over Rt 2, all will not be lost if injecting after the air temp probe. Combustion temps will still be reduced, knock reduced, EGT reduced and placing less heat into the coolant (remember, our cast into the head exhaust manifolds utilize the cooling system to drop EGT for the converters). Perhaps we can move the air temp sensor?

Anyone else have thoughts here?

 

Looking for any thoughts on an issue I've had the last few months. After driving, I get the smell of fresh oil after the car is parked in the garage / doors closed. Like, if I come back in the garage after a few hours, it's very distinct.

I can't pinpoint where the smell is coming from, so I've done everything I can think of: hose clamps most everywhere, including all 4 hose points on the catch can hose routing (which does not seem to be the source of it, as when I empty/clean it and drive, I still have the smell after; it seems to seal very well). Filter is tight. I'm not losing any oil that I can tell. Zero leaks anywhere I can see. Oil cap seems to seal fine (though replacing it is probably my next try). My only mods in the engine bay are the supercharger and catch can.

Anyone experienced anything similar, or have any other ideas to try? No check engine lights, gas mileage is fine, no consumption, no drips or leaks I can tell, but the persistent smell is driving me nuts. It's distinctly the fresh oil odor, not burned, not gas, etc.

 

looks too clean for something under the hood or SC related. Nothing at the oil pump or filter cartridge? Look at the diff's and around the spark plugs (you recently had them changed ?). If all else fails you likely have a two-stroke yard tool or lawn mower in the garage experiencing expansion from a southeast exposure and sun warming! check the catch-can to see that is working - should have little (oz or so) of fluid in it if you are less than 5k on change.

 

What spark plugs are you all running with the SC? And what gap?

 

per the recommendation of Yota Werx install NGK DILFR7K9G (platinum pin on the ground electrode) #91961" then reduced their gap to 0.03"

 

Unpopular opinion: Stock with stock gap.

Nothing observed during parts inspection or in our data suggested anything different was needed even as we eclipsed 400whp with the 84mm pulley.

 

Yeah, there's nothing around the filter/pump or on the diffs or cv boots. It's definitely the car and not a mower or yard tool. It's a mystery!