Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Doubt it matters on the rear end of a Tacoma. Huge upgrade over the craptastic stock drums

 

Did you see the image Toyota released of the 4th gen rear wheel area ? That there is an oe rear disc brake...

 

Yessir! I did. Waiting for the full unveil. But I hear the new chassis will have rear coil springs like the new Tundy, so I doubt a bolt in axle swap/retrofit can happen.

 

yup supposedly it is the entirely new platform shared with the Tundra so prob just like the new Tundra...

 

Deaver's showed up today.
Just waiting on the JD stuff to get here.
Getting close to tear down start... I hope.

 

Hey quick question for guys who have done fiberglass. I just extended my fuel filler neck for the fiberglass bedsides.

The 2 extra hardlines that are a 1/4" and 5/8" I believe are just for evap stuff I just cut off and capped. After drving around today it through a check engine light.

I haven't had a chance yet to read the code. It might just be my hose clamps aren't tight enough. Just curious on others who have done fiberglass. What do you usually do with the 2 smaller hardlines?

 

Mine are still attached. Just pull them out of the oem clamps and they will reach where they normally hook up.
Pretty much followed this thread. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...berglass-bedsides-glassworks-write-up.448370/

 

i'd assume if you just leave them capped you'll not like when you fill up either.

 

I already had an issue with with it spilling after the pump clicks so don't think it worked properly anyways. With one being a vent and one being an evap. I wouldn't see the harm in having them not connected as long as I still allow the one to vent.

 

Why not just keep them connected ?

 

Mine spits every time I fill in Nevada. So possible just the non-vent return pump hoses outside California.

 

I already accidentally broke the clip that connects at the top when trying to reroute them. Then just said screw it and cut the pipes since the clips were annoying me, and didn't have the patience that day to mess with it.

Just hoping to try make it work without reconnecting them so I don't have to buy more parts on something that isn't really a big deal. You know? Since the dealership likes to charge 20-30 dollars for a the cheapest plastic shit.

I also don't have emission testing so the evap system isn't something that I really care about. At least for now....

 

Just run some simple rubber hose… it’s not rocket science. But with that stuff not connected you’re gonna throw codes and you’re gonna have a bad time filling with no vent.

 

Okay,

I will look at it again and see if I can piece it back together with some hoses.

 

That’s what I’d do unless you plan to go all the way and delete the evap entirely. Hptuner can delete the codes from the ecu if you go that route. But easy thing would just piece them back together or just run rubber hose to hook them back up

 

Yeah,

Thanks for the tips guys. I think that's what I will do for now and just piece together some hoses.

I do have a HPtune and talked to him about getting the evap codes deleted but will just do that for now! Thanks!

 

Probably a dumb question but I’m tired of trying random combos and pulling them out… For the 2 different size spacers for the LCA (shorter and longer) which goes where? Doge for attention

 

Hey does anyone have the OEM fender supports for the front and rear section laying around that I can buy? I was going to make some, but figured it might be easier to just bend and manipulate the stock ones since I only have +2.

If you do just private message me please. Thanks!

 

For anyone that has done a JD spring under kit and used the supplied rubber hose at the fuel fill area might want to check the hose quality. Mine lasted five months.
Hoses have deteriorated far worse than the pictures.

 

Hello

This part number for inner cv boot for the 934s doesn't seem to be working for me. Does anyone have an updated one?

Thanks