Jacking front with full aluminum skids

Getting ready to do some suspension mods to my Taco and want to jack the front end up from the center so I can easily slide jack stands under both driver and passenger side frame rails.

I have never done this with my full CBI aluminum skid plates installed, so want to be careful to not bend the plates (or any other parts of the truck). Way too lazy to take off the skids.

Not my picture, but I usually jack from the point labelled `1`. Have read some folks caution against using the location labelled `2`.


Point 1 is under the skids and is not supported (air between skid and jacking point). Point 2 is where the front and rear skids meet and is in full contact with the skids.

Any issues using point 2?

 

I jack at Number 1 with my TRD skid? There's no gap there though.

Can you get a wood or metal shim in there to take up the gap temporarily?


If not, then you could just jack each side up separately and place your stands. Be careful though as a floor jack pulls itself in while jacking.

 

I tried jacking up each side separately, it was a bit unnerving on the second side as the jack moved the truck around.

There is a fair gap between the skid and point number 1 ... perhaps I could get something in there (besides dirt):

 

Good move! I have done it before, but wasn't going very high. Sometimes, it is good. Other times, best to play it safe.

If you pack enough dirt in there . . .


That almost looks like the thickness of a 2x4?

It is a bit crazy that they didn't give you that extra clearence? Of course, there are times when some gaposis is good.

 

I've got RCI aluminum skids. I just put a 2x4 on top of the jack and jack up on the skid approximately centered where that jack point (1) is. In my mind it's no different than coming down on the skid plate when you're off roading. So far so good.

 

Make sure to chock your wheels

 

I have an RCI aluminum front skid and worried about the same thing. I found a thread here where a member stacked 2 or 3 UHMW plastic sheets by gluing them in place where the gap is to fill the dead space.

I plan on doing the same thing at my next (first DIY) oil change where I'll drop the skid to install the fumoto valve and aluminum housing anyway. I also have heavy duty ramps, so jacking from either 1 or 2 will not be required. That being said, I personally would not jack from #2 because I don't think it's meant for that.

Here's the material:

$18 UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) Polyethylene Sheet, Smooth, ASTM D4020, White, 1/4" Thick, 12" Width, 12" Length

https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Po...1&keywords=uhmwpe+sheet&qid=1613512008&sr=8-3

 

I like the idea of filling the gap between the jacking point and the skid plate just to be safe (only when jacking, otherwise a crumple zone). Perhaps using a 2x4 on top of the jack (at point 1) to spread the load out is also good enough.

I am trying to be careful with the aluminum plates ... last time I was out on the trail they took a hit, absolutely did their job. Some gouging and they deflected about 1/4 of an inch:




So trying not to do anything stupid with a floor jack!

 

I have a knockof TRD Pro Skid Plate (LoStar on Amazon) and I just had to add spacers to the front 4 mounting points to get some clearance AWAY from that front jack point. The plate and that point were rubbing causing a "clunk" at low speeds. The clunk wasn't there when I first installed it. I think a tire shop used that point and the skid plate bent upwards causing permanent contact/rubbing.

I don't how my clucking issue isn't common. It was annoying as all hell.

 

Instead of spacing the bolts, you could have shimmed the gap? Some folks use something like a hockey puck for some of the aftermarket skids. A thick piece of rubber might do the trick for you and preserve the very useful jacking point.

 

Once I figured out where the noise was from I didn't even think about that as a jack point, I didn't think it was usable to begin with wit the skid there. How does the rubbing and clunking not happen to everyone if that is meant to come into contact? Or maybe it is a flaw with my knockoff skid.

Putting a rubber shim in there would likely just get mutilated, the rubbing left a pretty good impression on the underside of the skid plate. Putting a metal shim, well wouldn't it just rub again metal on metal?

 

The skids are generally stiff enough that they don't deflect / vibrate in normal driving.

Yours might have just been in a sweet spot.

I can't tell how close mine is, but it has also touched down on stuff offroad.

 

Definitely spot 2.
You're way better lifting in the center once over doing one side, then the other.
It's a skid plate. It will be fine

 

I use area 2.
With that being said, I also use a piece of 2x10, wise enough to span the entire TRD skid plate to jack the front with floor jack