Truck cranks but will not start [Solved].

It's all good! The Tach does not move when cranking

 

you sure you got everything done correctly on the crank sensor when you replaced it?

 

It was pretty simple. One bolt and a wire harness connection. It took longer to remove the fan assembly, alternator, and compressor.

I'm pretty confident it was replaced correctly.

 

With the cam sensor, Im not confident the blue wires are in the correct location because of the same blue wires. The OCV had a blue/red stripe and blue/white stripe, so that was pretty straightforward.

 

I mean the tach not moving suggests it's not getting a crank sensor signal but without a scan tool that's just a hunch.

 

Ahh gotcha. My scanner is coming in tomorrow. Do you know which code it would throw off the top of your head?

I replaced it with a Beck Arnley brand.

 

Probably a P0335 or P0339

 

You can see a small gap between the connector but I put a longer screwdriver down and it doesn't move either way. It runs up with the alternator harness into the fuse box. Is it connected to a relay?

 

Can't really see anything in the picture but the crank sensor wires go straight to the PCM.
I was more worried about it being pinched somewhere.
I'm kinda thinking the relay may have been the original problem and we may now be dealing with a problem that was "built in" from changing parts.

 

You can also just look at the engine speed pid and see if it's registering a few hundred rpms during cranking

 

I don't see any pinched wires, I can follow the harness that runs with the alternator. Hopefully the scanner will tell us more

 

Can you explain how I would check this? Thanks for coming in to help!

 

Most scan tools will have a few more functions than just reading/clearing codes

You should be able to pull up "data" on a list and either scroll or select "engine speed/rpm"

 

It’s hard to see how much of a gap is there.
But it “kind of” looks excessive. Hard to tell though.

 

I remember seeing somewhere in the FSM that the CPS had to be flush.
You might get away with a small gap. But the closer the better.
I may try to crawl under mine if I get a chance. I never looked, is it easier to see from the top or bottom? I have to head out to pick my grandfather up from the ER, he fell and busted his head pretty good. If I get a chance, I’ll try to take a look at mine later tonight.

 

Is the eyelet for the hold down bolt flush against the block? We need a better picture

crank sensors have an o-ring that will always hang up going into the hole, I use a little lube to help it slip in and rotate while pushing

But, are we talking about the sensor possibly not seating against the block? Or just wondering if the connector is fully seated?

 

Damn, dude! I hope he's okay! Don't worry about it, spend time with the fam. If you stand on the side standing in line with the fuse box, I'm pretty sure you can follow the alternator harness down to the crank sensor. There's a small window and you can see the clip. Im not sure that's a gap, it's kinda to close to the wires and it clip should be further up.

 

I did use oil while inserting it but it was tight. I did end up pushing it as far as a could but relied on Tightening the bolt to draw it in. It seemed to be flush but they're could be a gap. I wonder if I could get away with just removing the compressor this time and not removing the fan assembly and the alternator.....

Also, why wouldn't both the blue wires on my cam sensors have 5 volts?

 

I'll take a peek at mine when I get time, just got home and got a bunch of stuff to get put away and gotta get things under the shed.
We got some storms headed our way with a good chance of some big time hail and wind in about 2-3 hrs.

 

We had hail here the other night. Texas had some baseball size hail recently. Poor cows! https://twitter.com/rawsalerts/status/1651369042102321158?t=nUxKjPblJ-GObE78IJyKsg&s=19