SR/SR5 LED Headlight harness V2

I’ve got a 3rd gen SR with VLED tails/resistor that I’d be happy to test out. But I don’t have the OEM LEDs yet, I’m waiting to see if Toyota does a Memorial Day sale on parts.

 

If I'd be penny pinching, I'd use the removed front turn bulb, and add it in parallel to original circuit. Cover the illumination or even use it some how. no guessing circuit resistance.

 

Exactly, this is the most direct way to get past the ECU overthinking things. Monitor voltages on the bulb and drive the new headlights independently. Could potentially employ a DD flasher module if needed but I think if you already have a board, adding IC flashing isn't massive extra work/cost and better to have fewer extra parts, especially larger sized stuff which has to be waterproofed.

This is the current dream but it'll be a while of bs'ing before dreams take flight.

 

Bulb can be placed in cab and black out "covered".

 

Even added to intercept C10 harness...

 

This info is still good then, I may try to make my own. Anything I need to know in advance to making a harness like hyper flash etc? I have stock tails at the moment.

 

Since front 7447 turn bulb is removed and substituted by the Headlight Turn LED, I'd say a 50w 8Ohm resistor is the starting point. One per side.

 

Per Johnny, 3rd gen SR turn bulb is 7442? And 7442 is 28.5W? Whereas TRD halogen is 7440 and 25W and OEM LED pretty close but a tiny bit less, at least ohms-wise?

Which is all just maddening isn't it, all this kerfluffle over a few measly watts when the TRD trucks are far less twitchy.

Where I think things get extra wonky is the fact that alternator charging voltage isn't a constant, and especially not with a tune. So you might see anything from 11-14 ish volts, possibly even a bit above 14, depending on the situation while the user is testing this stuff out.

And I feel like we're at a 10 page instruction manual on how to handle the resistance topic. I would very much like to just disappear all of that somehow by leaving the bulb intact in the circuit and tapping power from the battery instead.

 

How would direct battery get flashing turn?

 

Would a variable resistor or rheostat not work? Just turn the dial until hyperflash goes away.

Old school blower motor resistors could handle the power if using directly, if a proper parallel arrangement couldn't be made.

 

We have discussed. Harder to waterproof it and still allow heat dissipation but certainly more tunable. However, it doesn't address the "I just want to buy and not know how it works" consumer which seems to be a solid chunk, some guys just don't like dreaming about electrons all day it seems

MOSFET on board, matching the pulse rate detected on the bulb or on board relay or external relay which can handle the flash rate? Or external flasher module?

 

I hope a solution is found! I waited to buy a harness until I knew my '23 was being delivered and now they are goneeeee

 

I hear ya. This OEM LED headlight retrofit situation reminds me of what two wise young men once said.

 

Snipped OEM connectors for direct terminal crimp to MX150 connector.
No returning to OEM without disassembly of MX150 and snipping MX150 terminals then stripping and crimping proper terminals and inserting into OEM connectors.
Or assembling an "opposite" harness to mate to the MX150.

 

SR headlight circuit detail for reference:

High & Low beams each have a common fuse (battery) which feeds a relay, post relay there's a fuse for each lamp.
See here:

 

Are you able to do this plug and play hardness for a 2020 SR5? if you do, How much?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...esses-v2-most-current-thread-dec-2023.819431/