Oil viscosity.

I had a Jetta turbo diesel if I drove it like I stole it it still got 50 MPG. It was my commuter car for my daylily 100 mile commute, The EPA in their infinite wisdom decided they were polluters and there was truth to that but never took into account the mileage factor. There was nothing out there that even came close. So they told VW to clean up their act and VW said "OK we will no longer import them to the states". Bone head logic. It's pretty much a moot point now because of the EV's.

 

Just from the experience I had with 5w30 in winter here. I feel those charts are skewed. 5w30 flows far slower than the 0w20 when it gets in the -10 range.

 

Yes I remember reading that when you take into account the mileage, they actually pollute less. Per gallon they pollute more sure but they don't pollute double the amount and yet they get over double the gas mileage. Would be great if they brought diesel back.

 

Definitely true, 0w30 is a good compromise. Can't beat 0w in winters for sure.

 

0w20 is for efficiency.

Main bearing oil clearance. The Lexus LS400 1UZ (33 years old) and Lexus IS-F 2UR GSE both spec 5 or 10W30. The 3UR FE and 2GR FKS spec 0W20.

1990 LS400 1UZ standard all journals .0010 - .0018

2008 IS-F 2UR and 3UR Tundra/Land Cruiser journals 2 - 4 .0010 - .0015
Journals 1 and 5 .0007 - .0012

2016 2GR FKS journals 1 and 4 .00075 - .0012
Journals 2 and 3 .0010 - .0014

1990 LS400 max clearance limit .0022
2008 IS-F 2UR and 3UR Tundra/Land Cruiser .0024
2016 2GR FKS max clearance 1 and 4 .020
Max clearance 2 and 3 .024

 

I use 5w-30 in mine. Did it also in my 2009 Tacoma. It is interesting that the manual for the 2009 said 5w-30 was ok for that one. No problems.

 

0W-30 is the way to go.

 

You will be hard pressed to find a Tacoma with an oil related failure, or a Toyota for that matter. Not saying it doesn't happen, just that it happens VERY VERY rarely, and this engine is in a CRAP TON of different vehicles.

As such if 0W20 gives you even 1/2 a MPG difference it puts you ahead.

Roughing in some numbers that 1/2 a MPG would save you $1250 over 15 years. Considering 0w20 has show it doesn't lead to engine failure I would rather have the grand in my pocket.

Oh, and FWIW, these engines are water cooled, they don't really run any hotter in warmer climates.

 

OP, 5w-30 will work. Also oil weight is a range. Pennzoil 5w-30 is a thin 30 weight, closer to 20w than to 40w weights.
I run 5w-30 or 5w-20 (depending on which oil I've had had longer on the shelf) in the RAV4 in the summer, 0w-20 in the winter, just because I have both weight stocked up. Will do the same with my Taco, once it gets over 50K miles. Why 50K? Because it makes me feel better, no other reason. And engine should be well broken in by then. And it depends on what I can snag on sale when, I do not pay more than $2.50 a quart for synthetics.

As far as not using 5w-30 in low temp.... Base oil, synthetic vs dino is far more affected by external temps than 0w vs5w. It is just there are no 0w dino oils, but there are both dino and syn 5w oils. I lived for 20 years in Alaska (live in GA now). I either had engine block heaters on my vehicles and ran dino or ran synthetic oils without block heaters. My Kia had no block heater, but had only syn 5w-30 year around, and cranked over just fine at 20 below. Hell, half of the time, I was finishing up partial jugs of syn oils (engine used 3.8 quarts of oil), and ran a mix of Valvoline Syn, G-Oil, Pennzoil platinum synthetics. No problems! Ran it for 5K miles, additives clash and all (purists from BITOG are having a heart attack now).

Put a quart of dino 5w-30 and a quart of syn 5w-30 in the freezer overnight. In the morning open both bottles and pour oil out. You will see a difference.

Just self aggrandizing oil stash bragging pics

 

I am not really arguing, I’m asking you to back up your statements. You’re claiming very confident claims and frankly I don’t see the basis for them yet, as it pertains specifically to the 2GR-FKS.

You claim that 5W-30 is better for this particular engine and that Toyota cant admit it at all, not even as a secondary option, because they will lose money for some reason.

Ok, maybe, prove it. Your links are general, not specific enough. I don’t see the proof yet.

 

You're looking for a specific study on the 2GR-FKS, good luck finding it. I don't know how else to get you to see what's right in front of you other than pointing right at it. I have a feeling if I told you it was raining outside, you'd want me to collect a sample from what's falling from the sky and send it for analysis to verify it's not milk. Then when proven it's not milk and is in fact water, you'd come back with the fact that it wasn't collected from your property so we don't actually know if it's water everywhere or if it could still be milk in some places. Good luck out there.

I'm outta here, peace!

 

It uses oil pressure from the engine. The valves that allow the oil to enter the timing advance chambers on the camshaft are electronic.

 

although it’s filmed in a junkyard, this is the best video explaining the system on the YouTubes
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=T0G5KLN4a_w&pp=ygUVVG95b3RhIHZ2dGkgZXhwbGFpbmVk

 

Dude, don't claim that one link you provided as "proof". That article was written with an axe to grind and it was obvious from the first paragraph.

This is a discussion, expect to support your claims. Coming back with "its your fault not mine" isn't a discussion its an escape from having to support your viewpoint and frankly the end of your comment was just some childish bullcrap.

 

FWIW….

The 2GR-FKS runs coolant, and thus oil, hotter than a normal engine by about 10 degrees. Toyota does this, again, for emissions and mpg. The thermostat is actually electronically heated under high loads in order open more quickly and suppress temperatures that are headed where we don’t want them.

0w20 was very recently redesigned/upgraded from GF-5 to GF-6. Piston deposits, low speed pre ignition, and timing chain wear are all cited reasons.

 

I haven't even seen 0w30 on the shelves here. It's hard enough to find 0w20. There's more brands, and types of 5w30 here, and fairly cheap vs 0w20. Heck only reason I used 5w30 was i had a new 5 qt. jug leftover, I had bought for my 4.7 tundra.

 

A EV needs 10lb of coal per 1 gallon of gasoline, equal miles driven. Found a chart on it last year, but all thats been scrubbed off the web.

Ev's are not overall cleaner using coal fired plants. NG they are closer, and Nuclear they are better(as long as theres not a meltdown). Overall modern Diesel engines are the cleanest.

 

Also EV's carry 500+lb of toxic waste.

 

I thought that was the old system. I also thought the newer systems use stepper motors to advance/retard valve timing. But I cant remember what I read 5 years back.

And with heaver weight oils, that will increase oil pressure.

 

Add in lithium pools and child/slave labor cobalt mining to the equation.