Ch4x4 internal DUAL switch schematic

Hey if anyone else was trying to wire up something with a Ch4x4 dual switch, note that the switches use the same power for both switches. Depending on application this may be at odds with prewired bundles.

So if this helps anyone, make sure to leave a like! If your switch fails it definitely helps to understand what might have happened.

 

It is a bit disappointing that they share power, this means you cant chain the output like ARB switches where the rear locker powers the front locker, so you can only engage the front after you have engaged the rear.

I came across your diagram for another reason though. I have the dual switches with front locker on top and rear locker on the bottom. I have a separate single switch for compressor. The output of the compressor switch goes to the compressor itself as well as the input source RED for the dual switches.

This allows the lockers to only be engaged when the compressor is engaged. However, I found something strange in my testing. I have YELLOW on the dual switch sharing the dash illumination with the single compressor switch. If my source is off IGN there is no power going to the RED source on the dual switch. This is good. But if my IGN is off and my headlights are on, then YELLOW is getting power, the switch leds are on.. and the switches work, by passing the single compressor switch.

Is YELLOW somehow connected to RED internally? I cant think of any other explanation for this. Or am I missing something obvious because I have been fiddling with wires too long?

 

The interior Illumination rheostat works off variable negative ground so you would have possible had the led wired to the wrong side? What I’d your red wire on the dual switch hooked up to?

 

I am not using the variable illumination wire, I am using the tail light fuse tap.

RED on the dual switch is going to RED 1 (output) on the single / compressor switch.

I dont know what the issue, but I think a solution could be to connect the YELLOW / illumination of the dual switch to the RED 1 output of the single switch so the switch doesnt even illuminate until the compressor switch is turned on.

 

Good stuff, glad you got it figured out. I stay with the singles cause the doubles are a pain in the ass.

 

I know that now. I only saved one switch slot with the double too.

Is there any company that makes genuinely good switches for the toyota blanks?

 

I use AOB or CH4x4, both seem to be decent quality. The AOB blue is a little closer to the factory blue.

 

This is similar to the issues I ran into and would burn out switches. The diodes take very little current. So even leakage current through some loads could be high enough to power it. Unfortunately these Chinese parts don’t come with good documentation of what they do. I still maintain what I did should work but ultimately it didn’t

you have a better setup I just didn’t feel like ripping apart the factory e locker. Advantage for me is I can lock just the front. Might be useful 1 time in my life

 

The switches failing is a valid concern. I pack a length of bare wire so I can jump from the battery to the compressor as a last resort.