2016 sr5 v6 4x4 towing capacity

Hello I can’t seem to find a clear answer on this. I’ve seen the chart, but I have a 2016 sr5 4x4 v6 with the tow package, what is my towing capacity? I am new to this but am looking to invest in a camper

 

Realistically about 5500lbs, unless towing an rv. RVs I wouldn’t go much over 4500lbs.

 

Rated for 6400lb max capacity I believe but like most on here will tell you I would be comfortable with about half that much and keep the camper in the 3500lb range.

 

^^ This. Also keep your payload capacity in mind by adding the tongue weight of the trailer to the weight of any gear you carry in the bed and cab, plus your passengers.

 

I tow a 4200 lb micro Minnie. Tows fine but I am not going all over the country-yet. WD hitch is highly recommended.

 

Looking at a 3500 pounder, so a weight distribution hitch is definitely key to success right?

 

Probably good to have a WD for 3500. At some Point you don’t need it - probably around 2500 lbs or so. The Micro
Minnie has dual axles and I think it makes a big improvement in the towing experience. BUT it adds weight. Did you check the towing bible thread yet? It’s a sticky.

 

What makes an RV different from any other mass load?

 

Air resistance

 

A tow rating is just that, what the manufacturer specifies in the SAE J2807 standard (Society of Automotive Engineers).
If it's rated to 6800, that is what it will do.
The manufacturer wouldn't list it as such if otherwise.

https://www.cars.com/articles/breaking-down-the-2023-toyota-tacomas-towing-capacities-460094/
"The top-end tow rating for the Tacoma is 6,800 pounds."

Air bags are great and keep it all level, and brakes on trailer are a must.
I tow 5500 easily, flat terrain.

 

Travel coaches always end up being much heavier than you expect and have tremendous drag since you are essentially pulling an 8 x 8 wall down the road.

A good WDH, properly set up makes a great difference in stability and the handling of the combination.

"Success" depends on how you define the word, while you can move a trailer from A to B with these trucks, it doesn't mean they are especially good at the task or enjoyable to drive while doing it.

They will suck fuel like it is going out of style and the torque curve requires the engine to be constantly singing, while that doesn't seem to hurt anything it is annoying.

This engine does make plenty of power, the problem it is way up in the RPM band, the off idle torque is similar to that of a riding lawn mower and it makes accelerating from a stop and low speed driving an exercise in patience at a minimum.

 

Roger that, thanks.

 

And of course while towing run in ECT and S4. That seems to work for me even with just a 1,200 teardrop.

 

I pull a duel axle 17 foot Sunline, some thing around 3,500-4,000 loaded one big issue no one seems to mention you have got to stop this thing. The trailer has 4 wheel breaking electrically activated and in a bad situation it's white kunkle. I really don't want to tow any thing beyond 4000 lb. Then there things like mountains, Mine is a manual so I have control over the transmission that helps breaking but still it's some thing to think about.

 

Your truck can PULL 6400 lbs on level ground at sea level. Start adding mountains and less O2 in the air above 5000' and your engine is working too hard with that much weight.

Then there is payload, you don't have much. Check the sticker on the driver's door jamb. There is a statement printed on it saying something along the lines of "The weight of passengers and cargo should never exceed XXXX lbs" The exact weight varies on different trucks but most 3rd gen 4X4 Double Cabs will be 1000-1200 lbs.

Then figure 13% of trailer weight as tongue weight. You don't need a WDH until you get to 5000 lbs or more, but if you are using a WDH you have to add about 100 lbs to the tongue weight. So, a 6400 lb trailer would put about 830 lbs on your hitch. Add 100 lbs for the WDH and you're at 930 lbs. Subtract that from payload and that is how much weight you can put in the truck for passengers and cargo.

My truck has 1200 lbs payload. My wife and I are a combined 360 lbs. I'd be 90 lbs over my payload with just the 2 of us in the cab. If your truck has less than 1200 lbs payload it will be even worse. With ANY truck even full size 3/4 and 1 tons payload is usually the limiting factor.

A realistic max for a Tacoma is 4500-5000 and I'd feel better closer to 4000. That leaves enough payload to carry passengers and a few items in the truck. I might be willing to tow 5500-6000 lbs on rare occasions for short pulls. But I'd have to make sure no other passengers or cargo were in the truck. For example if I had to pull a trailer with roofing shingles on it for a few miles to a worksite. But pushing the truck right to its limits on a regular basis will result in premature parts breakage.

 

the driver's side door jamb will have all the exact specs listed for each individual vehicle. Each vehicle is built with different options and sometimes, capabilities, so this individualized sticker will account for that and list. This is where you should start and finish.

 

Per specifications one my not need the WDH until passing 5000 pounds however for the large improvement it makes in the smoothness and stability when towing I feel it is an asset at a lower weight especially with a travel coach.

The Tacoma is fairly poor towing platform to begin with, you need every advantage you can get.

 

I pulled a 6x12 Uhaul trailer for 300 miles thru the Catskill mountains. Unloaded it was 1920lbs. We had a full load of mostly furniture and clothes some odds and ends. Going to guess it was approximately 1000lbs of cargo. Driver plus 2 passengers aprx 700 lbs (I'm fat) and I felt fairly comfortable towing as it was. A little gear hunting on the steeper grades but using S mode in 4th gear and ECT power kept everything in check. I could not imagine pulling over 5000 lbs thru mountainous terrain on any regular basis. Would I do it once......sure but when I buy a camper I'll keep the size in my comfort zone not Toyotas.