Turbo BS Thread

I was going to trim the coupler leg but I'm not sure that'll bring it in enough. I like the welding idea, I think I have a bend I can convince my buddy to tig on for me. This project has really made me wish my Tig welding was more acceptable.

 

These projects are the best way to learn. But sometimes it's good to know when to farm out in certain areas. Either way, progress is progress.

 

Agreed on that. I'll see if I cant learn a thing or two from him, I'm actually not half bad with the torch on mild steel but I never really got the heat control feel for aluminum. Happy to be making progress though, truck runs on the Haltech right now and I've been building an exhaust. I think it's about a week from street tuning now

 

Woot!

 

I wasn't able to clock it straight up and down either. Mine was looking better on the inside closest to the engine probably almost exactly what you are experiencing.

I haven't looked at it since then but I did here lots of turbo noises on Saturday and Sunday

Some great rigs and drivers out here

 

That looks like a blast!

 

Speaking of Banjo bolts. When I had the oil fittings clocked in the correct position the Bango bolts for the coolants lines were a pain in the ass to get in because the fittings on the end of the brass tubes were hitting the 10mm bolts used for clocking the turbo.
(hopefully that makes sense)

If you zoom in on the Banjo bolt in this picture you should be able to see what I mean.
Wasn't sure if @GoJo noticed this or not. It only happens with the oil ports clocked correctly (not really a big deal but it's another little annoyance)

 

Chinesium. Sorry. Had too. Good thing is, you're crafty enough to work around it.

 

What size hole are you trying to get to? Can you use a flange or is it strictly threaded hole?

 

Hmm, well it is for coolant... might be worth using AN conversion fittings on it. There's plenty that will seal with a crush washer.

 

I did mount them but didn't notice any interference but I wasn't paying much attention either. I think I solutioned for my drain flange issue... got a flange coming with 1/2 NPT female, and found a couple 45 degree 1/2 NPT male to 5/8 barb fittings that I will see which has the lower profile, that I am hopeful will provide more clearance and allow me to get closer to that 0 degree clock, it should at least get me better than I was but I am still thinking to possibly make my own like @Jon64l down the road if I run into oil drainage issues.

 

What about threading the drain port itself?

 

Could be possibility but would rather avoid that if possible thus not to ruin the integrity if the turbo cartridge. This is what I have coming, threads are in the flange itself and not extended past that, so good 1/4 depth :

 

That could do it

 

Boost control solenoid bracket made up, nice and close to the action at least.

 

Maybe you can slightly rotate the center section, and/or slightly grind the bolt or Banjo. I have Banjo on that side and An conversion on the other. Just worked out that way with what was in the tool box and what friends had laying around.

 

Having seen firsthand how little a restriction can cause problems, I wouldn't recommend that

 

Yeah then he's in between a rock and a hard place me thinks. Gonna need something custom to clear.

 

Find one with a raised bung and have a lager nipple welded to it for more flow. Orient it however you need it or even do a large AN fitting.

 

I think K&N finally stopped making those designs for this exact reason. ...which is a good thing except that I still have one