Rear Drum Brakes Replacement

My double sided one fits the bigger cups

 

That looks close to exactly what I have. I constantly find cups bigger that don’t fit.

 

I'm not certain our rear brakes need to be replaced but maybe every 150k or so.

 

Thanks everyone for the helpful advice! Regarding the wheel cylinders, do you just bleed one side once finished and then move on to the other side? or can you bleed both sides after installing the new components and reinstalling the tires?

 

Bleed after the drums are back on, before you put the wheels on. Less crap in the way.

 

Replaced mine @ 141,000....still had some shoe left, but not much. Afraid it wouldn't pass inspection in a couple of months.

 

This video references the drivers side brake shoes. What is the difference when installing passenger side brake shoes?

 

There isn't really. The parts are mirrored, that's all. Once you figure out one side the other is a piece of cake.

Only take apart one side at a time so if all else fails you can use the one you haven't touched yet as a reference.

 

The difference will be everything on the left will be on the right.

It’s a very good video but I have some issues.

Getting the drum off. The BFH method is one way. There’s also 2 threaded holes to assist pushing it off. I wanna say they’re M8 1.25.

When I’m done there are no greasy fingerprints on the shoes braking surface.

The 2 little clips. I have 2 small screwdrivers specifically for them, one slightly bigger than the other. I jam one in and twist to get it to begin to open. If necessary I’ll use the other to keep it from spinning. Then put both in the gap and either twist or pry to open. Then usually it slides off or put one of the screwdrivers in to pop it out. If it isn’t flat anymore I’ll put it on the anvil part of my vice a smack it with a hammer to flatten it. If it looks worn or chewed from removing I replace it. Reinstalling, they like to fly away and disappear so I’m ready with spares. Sometimes in the hole area, one side will have more of a squared off edge, put that on the outside.

The wheel cylinders. I pull the rubber ends out slightly, if brake fluid comes out they get replaced.

Using a die grinder scotch brite on the hub is more aggressive than I’d do. A wire wheel or cup should be enough. He coated it with anti seize which is a good idea but, I’d do that later on so it’s not getting all over everything.

Putting a grease on the 6 contact points between the shoes and backing plate is important but I think he put way too much.

The pins springs cups. The pin will often have a groove worn into it from rubbing, replace if you see it.

Cleaning new drums. I’m gonna use no less than a full can of brake cleaner on each drum.

Adjusting the self adjusters. Before you put on the drum, put your adjuster tool in the hole. Check how to tighten. Check how to push the arm away and loosen. Make a mental note. Then follow the correct adjustment procedure.

 

After all that, my brake pedal goes almost all the way to the floor.

 

If you replaced the rear shoes, you might not have the adjusters tight enough. If you’re sure they’re not loose, try starting the engine and pump the brake pedal.

 

All good tips. Absolutely wear safety eyewear, as pliers can slip. Have your helper do the same. When bleeding (the brakes, not you), keep an eye on the reservoir, as if air gets in the abs module, you're screwed
DAMHIK.

 

Great post here guys. Posts like this are why I hang out here on TW

Does anyone have a list of Toyota part numbers for the cylinders, drums & spring kits? I've got a slow leak at my hard line > cylinder & I figure I should replace everything while I do the job.

 

Good time to install SpeedBleeders. Makes bleeding brakes an easy one person job.