For Stock Rigs Only

Just hit them with the news that the cabinets need to be unmounted to properly install it. Maybe they'll learn to do it right the first time or hire somebody who will. IDK shit about carpentry so I'd be hiring it out from the get go.

 

So my plan is to first fit (again) and pre-assemble the entire (or most of) lower piece as I can hold that in place with clamps as it aligns with the front of the face frame. Then I was going to attach the top pieces to the lower piece keeping everything aligned (going to put some blocking between the two). Then install as an entire unit with screws through the top front edge of the cabinets. I figure if I can get that bottom piece assembled and in the correct position everywhere (2 outside and 1 inside corner), it should make it easier to just line up the top part.

Then I have another section of cabinets with some 22.5 miters and 2 outside corners. That should go faster.

 

I think I would enjoy working with you, I like how you problem solve.

 

A second person would be wonderful in this case...brainstorming and a second set of hands to help with alignment, etc. The homeowner installed the cabinets. His wife stopped by at lunch and said "Now I believe my husband when he says things take time to do". I thought this would take 2 days. I'm hoping I can wrap up tomorrow. I know it's paint grade and joints can be caulked and touched up (they have the paint). but I like to have everything tight. My dry fit mock ups all seem to fit nicely when they're layed out on the island. Things always shift a little with fasteners.

 

And, on one side of the fridge, there's an upper, but there's a fridge panel spaced about an inch off the upper. No place to screw from below through the upper that will catch that lower piece. I'm still at a loss on how to fasten that section. Maybe glue and a shim between the crown and ceiling for pressure while the glue sets.

 

I would use hot melt glue in combination with construction adhesive,titebond on the miter.

 

I'm afraid of an instant bond as there's zero room for error (in this instance) and I want the ability to adjust a little if needed. I have titebond 3 and was going to pin the miters with my 23g pin nailer. At least it's 3/4 stock so there's plenty of room. I know I'll need to wait for it to set, but I can move on to the next section while it dries. I just have to trust if I get the lower section right, the rest will follow.

Feels like cabinet making.

Here's a long section with the return to the sink just resting in place. That miter tightens up nicely. I need to do the miters first so they don't get pulled out of position when I attach the upper section to the lower section. Those lower pieces all have slight variances. They wobble a little even on the granite island. JENGA!!

 

I already have



He’s good people.

 

Apologies for hijacking the thread for a bit. Needed to get some out that out of my head. Thanks @jwctaco

 

Hijacking is allowed… lol

I had to put a molding around the top of a room many, many years ago with my FIL.
I had no idea what I was doing so I cheated like a SOAB. I had extra so I used two 1 foot pieces
and cut the corners on those waste piece’s and trial fit them and adjusted the angle. It came out pretty good for a hacker..

 

This is a safe space. Mike said so.


If TW is anything like Tundras, derails are a part of the magic.

 

Howdy Stockers. damn @Sig45, got your hands full.

 

No wonder it was so hot that day, you put the kero heater outside!

 

Diesel

 

I mean, kinda the same stuff, kero is just better refined. I used offroad diesel in mine.

 

Can’t afford kero. Just bustin ya.

 

Oh neither can I. Kero was up to $8.99/gallon at one point. Same time offroad diesel was $4.59. I was putting it 15 gallons at a time in the oil tank this winter. No way in Hell I could afford a 150 gallon delivery.

 

Yup. Definitely a plane.

 

But to answer that, I would if I had to. Its not far off from the dragonfly (pusher prop instead)