1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

I'm a bit confused. The compressor switches off once it hits the 120psi setpoint of the p switch. Then will turn back on if the pressure drops at all.
The in cab switch just turns on power to the compressor to start doing it's thing trying to stay at that pressure.
So that switch

I see what you're saying now about doing it off of the relay within the compressor. So that the generic switch function in the HT turns on only when the compressor is running, versus the switch in the cab which is always switched on.
I'll have to try and find that relay.

keep in mind I have a 3rz, but definitely appreciate any kind of input I can get on the tuning front

 

Turns those down 10% and I bet it gets under 1k RPM.

 

I would greatly appreciate the help if either of you want to. We did touch all of these tables, but this is my first experience with tuning a motor so I'm very much still learning.

 

It sounds like Trey is going to do a write-up but what's really going to help your engine catch itself is adding another axis to your output tables so that it can correct based on engine vacuum along with coolant temperature

 

Post your long term Idle trims then also? Actual output is defined by: MAX(Base Table + LT Trim + ST Trim, Min Table Output)

 

Ya, I'll start working on it on my build page now then since I'm waiting on a simulation to finish for work. Shouldn't take me more than a couple hours at most

 

But isn't vacuum going to be consistent at idle speeds? you're not under load at idle.

I turned off LT idle trimming. That was making it even worse behavior. With it on, I couldn't get my idle to go below like 1500. My idle then slowly started increasing over time at idle. The it would just keep trying to compensate and adding to the base output. That's probably a large reason as to why I'm having electrical loads drawing down my idle speeds

 

Vacuum is not consistent, no, especially with things like idle up. And it can vary with atmospheric conditions.

That LTT scenario is weird... we might need to look at more things lol. Gimme an hour or so then you can read my writeup and see if you want to copy anything.

 

Gotcha. Well I'll start there and report back my findings once I'm back home and at my truck.

 

In a theoretical, ignoring gravity and air density science class question sort of way, yes, but in reality... No, helping to further define the situation helps it stay constant. The engine vacuum signal changes based on RPM even if the ISC and butterfly don't change.

 

Gotcha. So what would those two new rows be ideally? Vacuum at idle and something not far off from that?

 

@betterbuckleup
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-mid-travel-build.794100/page-2#post-28713123

 

You work fast.
Some questions in reading through it so far. What determines the controller values in the idle control home page. Mine differ slightly, namely in the RPM rate upper limit, decel fuel cut restore, and max vehicle speed.

Also for power steering, my PS bypass valve isn't electronic like on some later models and is controlled by vacuum so I believe that isn't applicable in my situation for idle up.

So far since adding the RPM rows, it seems to be better. I've turned back on LT idle trimming and it isn't doing anything weird so far. I'll keep an eye on it but so far it's promising. Thanks for that writeup! extremely helpful.

 

Your version of NSP on the computer and in the ECU might be a little older than his. A lot of the terms have become more descriptive lately with every update. I bet if you did an ECU update it would probably change term names

 

Those are conditions which we must be under for the corrections to happen. They're to ensure idle is stable enough to correct upon, otherwise it will fall back to the base table.
If yours are close, they're probably fine. Since my desired idle is lower than normal, I made the decel fuel cut restore higher than normal (decel cut will end at a min of 1100RPM (700+400)).
Max vehicle speed I dropped because I don't find it necessary to allow correction unless I'm pretty much stopped.

Your power steering is probably fine to ignore, just set the base idle a little higher than mine.

 

Thank you for taking the time to type that up, it's a great help to those that have been left with partially functional tunes. I think we'll be seeing more of those as time goes on and having information on tap is a great resource.

 

You guys are awesome.

 

Are you running a haltech too now?

 

I am. I have done all of my tuning, but lately I’ve been itching to try and really dial in the tune. These post surely help…thanks to you and @treyus30

 

Sweet, welcome to the party. I'm happy to help however I can. Everyone that wants to learn this stuff and improve their tune should have the ability to learn how. When it's a group effort it becomes a lot less daunting