Clutch Recommendations

Well after hundreds of pages opened and not finding my parameters of vehicle and solutions, I guess I just need to post what I am trying to resolve.

I have a 2006 Tacoma 4X4 TRD Tow Package with about 150K on it. Winter tires and very rare chain use. I tow a 5,000+ lb camp trailer w/ trailer brakes a few times a year on hunting trips with one of those trips being around a thousand miles. I also have a flat bed trailer w/o brakes that I use for firewood trips up in the mtns and it will run 4,200 lbs. I don't get wild with off-roading or racing, but I do need to get around in snow and off-road, usually slow travel tho. Of course I use it around town too so I'm not looking to create something that is off road only.

I've been towing just fine with the prior clutch but I bought the truck used in 2010 and felt it was time to put a new clutch in. Never had any issues, but since I bought it used, I had no idea when that prior clutch was installed. So given these long trips, I wanted to make sure my truck was in top shape. So I had a new clutch put in for last Winter's hunt trip. For the first time in 30 years, I didn't go. And probably a good thing too being over the next few months of this year, it was time to make the firewood trips. Knowing what I do with my truck, I clarified that I do some hauling with it and want a heavy duty clutch. I barely used it thru Winter and was easy on it during run in and beyond. But early this year I noticed some bad clutch smell a few times during very light slow activity. It first happened when towing a small log (800-1,000 lbs) on flat ground using a cable. Well I thought it was just a fluke and did little with truck for a while. Then a month later I moved my trailer backing it up on flat ground and noticed it again. Okay just a fluke. But it was during a few firewood runs this Spring, where backing up the Empty 12' flatbed trailer up just a slight 3 degree grade, and WOW, the clutch was burning bad! And so after a few similar movements, I isolated a problem. And I wasn't slipping it and was in 4 wheel. And with this clutch, I wouldn't even be able to back my hunt trailer into position at camp, something I've never had an issue with when I even used my old 86 Ranger.

Bottom line is, something is wrong with the new clutch and I need to replace it. I also then discovered it wasn't a Heavy Duty Clutch that was installed. I never had any such problems with the prior clutch that was in it and almost wish I just left it in there till it went bad on its own. I believe it had an Aisin. The ThrowOut Bearing had chirped for the last decade but never caused a single issue.

Other then some thoughts about why a new clutch would do this, I really don't want to get into what brand is in there now so as to not point fingers. What I am looking for are recommendations on what Clutch Kits are best for this year vehicle for my use. I KNOW I want a Heavy Duty clutch with HD Flywheel given the towing I do. Just not sure about what brands are best for this year and model. A little reluctant to mix-match different brands too as not everything may fit right. Also read a few post where Luk had issues and was dropped as OEM but am open minded. That said, I realize that not every aftermarket mfr makes a Flywheel too so need a solution there that fits. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated. TIA

 

TL ; DR Replace with a factory clutch; the "tow package" is just the hitch and seven pin connector and heavier alternator.* The wiring harness for a trailer brake is behind the kick panel. These trucks suck at towing, especially the manual transmission earlier models with the extra crappy brakes.

*The automatics have a transmission cooler by the radiator.

 

I have always replaced stock clutches with Centerforce II and get the stock flywheel resurfaced.

Never had any issues with this combo.

 

I went with URD heavy flywheel
Stage 2 clutch and pressure plate kit
CM HydroTOB that i one day want to replace with a Tilton

 

Yeah aware Tow Pkg is just that, but had to mention. I've not had any issues towing heavy loads in the 12 years I've owned it. In fact it was impressive that it towed such a heavy load so well at highway speeds or steep hills and kept up with hunt partner in his big diesel except maybe near the top of some of the steepest hills. So I can't agree with you on assessment.

 

Is the Stage 2 adequate for heavy towing tho or would Stage 3 be better? Agree on the Heavy Flywheel.

 

I would check URDs site. They have new products. You can even contact them to ask recommendation.

on one side, you have speed. A clutch with pucks that are on/off grabbing aggressively. And lighter weight flywheel.
Which makes no sense for this truck because it’s like taking a portapotty to a race track.

on the other side is stronger, but still usable, without the above “fast 230hp V6” stuff; which is where you wanna look
whether that’s URD or other companies

ie, a complete face clutch disc, not one that is segmented into pucks. As a normal style still has some room for slip, that can also be used off road. Which some slip is probably unavoidable unless you have beefy regeared diffs and a crawl box.

there’s usually no replacement for size. And a quick google tells me Dodge Ram diesel manual had a 12-13” clutch while Tacoma is 9.8”. More size, more material.

on one side, there’s only so much room in the bellhousing probably for the clutch parts. And nobody making crazy towing parts because it’s not the truck for that.
But you can still probably maximize and upgrade the most you can. The brakes, frame, engine, suspension, hitch, etc will also have their own limit on towing.
I forget the holding spec on around stage 2. I think something like 400-500hp.

I too dealt with a possibly burning clutch towing. Took a wrong way had to back up blind like 20 stop/go’s up a hill which the clutch didn’t seem to like, nor towing through mountains. Spotter or not in hindsight maybe I should’ve put it into LO for that one situation. After that didn’t really want another bare minimum low spec stock part


Even better for starting off and low end usability is installing a FluidAmpr
which is not developed for Tacoma because nobody of the 100 people FluidAmpr requires to warrant designing it are interested in an affordable $340 massive upgrade that also improves feel and reliability. To compliment on the front end of the crank, a nice clutch kit going on the back of the crank. The opposite in popularity of $400 tin can step bars.

 

Given my towing needs, I'm thinking the Centerforce II would not be adequate. Am considering the Dual Friction however. The truck was previously owned by a kid who I guess used to burn thru tires, so the Stock flywheel probably was beyond resurfacing. Its possible he had the clutch replaced before I bought it in 2010 and the flywheel was likely resurfaced then once. It wasn't in best shape with the new clutch although I don't know if resurfacing was a possibility. A new medium clutch was installed instead.

 

I had their page open along with a few others. Saw they do make their own Flywheel which I guess Aisin doesn't. I had also read in a few other posts where their Throwout Bearings had failures. That may be old news and problem fixed, so still open to urd. (and with respect to Aisin which I'm also exploring, since they don't make their own Flywheels, I'd need to make sure whatever brand was used 'Fits' well with the Aisin.)

And when I said I was backing up with an empty flatbed utility trailer on like 3 degree slope and it started smoking, I am serious. It was the least resistance one could possibly have. Thank God I haven't had to back up even five yards or so with a load on anything only slightly steep, it would completely Fry the clutch right there.

Otherwise Good info & agree, and yep will stay away from a light flywheel for certain! That is one mistake that was made even tho I wanted Heavy Duty and expressed how much I tow.

 

I also have a 6speed v6 and can totally relate to everything you're saying. For a small truck i've overall been impressed with its towing capabilities if you know how to drive it right. I'd recommend looking into the 2lo mod if you haven't, it REALLY helps when backing up. Lets you shift into low range without engaging 4wd and really saves the clutch from the impossibly tall reverse gear under heavy load.

 

Thing is, in the 12 years I've owned the truck, I NEVER had any issues backing up with even the heaviest load. Any time I did have to back up on a slope with full load, like at my elk camp, I would put it into 4L, which wasn't an inconvenience at all when needed, which is usually in the woods anyhow so 4L is okay. But it shouldn't start burning with an empty trailer on very gentle slope. The problem only began with the recent clutch that was put in. Either something failed or wasn't properly installed. Hard to say.

Anyway, something is wrong with the new medium duty clutch that was put in and as bad as it was burning with almost zero load (an empty 750 lb trailer on a very gentle slope only a few yards), I can't trust what is in there. And given how bad it was burning over almost nothing, I don't feel at all safe leaving any of those new parts in there. So on the rebuild, I need to make sure everything is replaced as there is no way any of those parts can be guaranteed as still good. So I just need to come up with a few options on brand and quality clutch kit. HD Flywheel a given. Thnx

 

You might give URD a call and talk to them. I had one of their Throwout Bearing Upgrade kits installed, preemptively, when I had my clutch replaced (my truck only had about 130k on it at the time but the real seal had started to leak so I needed a new clutch; it sat for extended periods while I was working overseas).
https://urdusa.com/throwout-bearing-upgraderepair-kit-2005-tacoma-v6-6-speed/

Marlin Crawler is another good resource; I installed one of their shifter seats when I started having trouble shifting into reverse. Several of the folks here recommended them when I asked about the shifting issue.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-seats

 

Right now I'm leaning to the URD Stage 2 or Centerforce Dual Friction to support my occasional towing needs. And with either option, no question on using a Heavy Duty Flywheel.

I'm still looking for theories as to what could be causing my problems mainly in reverse with my recently installed clutch. It took only minor resistance for the clutch burning to occur backing up a very short distance, but it did happen a few times going forward as well with resistance. And in the dozen years I've had the truck, I've NEVER had either happen and it was excellent at towing heavy loads, especially no problem ever while backing up with a heavy load.

With the serious clutch burning that took place under only slight resistance with the present set up, its probably imperative to change out everything presently in there due to the glazing of the surfaces that would follow, not to mention the possibility of any part simply failing. I will add that I've noticed no difficulty shifting into forward or reverse except maybe once, but it hasn't seemed to repeat itself so far, nor could I rule out 100% that the floor mat wasn't the cause in that instance, but I didn't see it in the way either when I looked down to the pedal.

 

I need to pose another question. IF the pedal wasn't adjusted properly when the clutch was installed, wouldn't I notice even some slipping while accelerating up a hill at higher speeds with a heavy load? Up until now the very serious burning problem only seems to occur when moving slow forward but especially worse in reverse with there being limited resistance like an empty utility trailer on just the slightest grade. (And of course if I did have to back up with a heavy load up even a slight grade, I always put it in Low 4.) But I've never had an issue backing up with only a slight load, until this clutch that is.

Since I've isolated the problem, I've tried to avoid circumstances backing up on an incline with any load. Problem is, before I isolated when it was taking place, in what were previously normal situations that never caused me a problem before this clutch, I'm concerned that some melting/glazing occurred to the disc, pressure plate and then material melted/glazed onto the surface of the Flywheel as well. So I feel totally unsafe about the condition of this clutch long term, if there was glazing that occurred. The place that installed it recently wanted me to bring it in so they could adjust the pedal, but at this stage that totally neglects the probable damage to components that likely took place as a result of that or other flaw. And if pedal adjustment is the problem, then I would think I'd have other slipping situations as well. So it makes me wonder if something else wasn't put together right and I sure don't feel safe with that clutch anymore. A pedal adjustment now, isn't going to remove what glazing has occurred as a result, and it negates the new condition of the clutch caused by whatever was wrong in the first place.

That said, I have to be extra concerned about Glazing because when Winter comes, clutch performance can become worse as glazed friction material behaves differently in sub freezing temps. More specifically to my case, each year I elk hunt at 5,500 foot elevation for 14 days where we can have minus 0 temps. I am probably lucky in that for the first time in 30 years, I didn't go on my hunt this last Winter. I actually had a bad feeling so decided not to go. Sometimes that hunt is done Solo too, so I can't take ANY chances with my truck not being reliable in those extreme conditions and very remote location. A person could die out there if stranded during Winter. So if Glazing can be a greater problem in sub zero temps, well that clutch may be toast for reliable Winter driving.

Anyway, shouldn't I experience slight slipping or problems engaging at different speeds if it was my pedal that wasn't adjusted properly? Thanks!