Taco lean after spacer install, what to do?

I have a 2019 Sport that has a bunch of extra weight; front and rear steel bumpers, aluminum skids, 9" behind the grill lights, 150lb roof rack, 100lbs of constant gear between the cab and bed.

So I upgraded the suspension with Dobinson coil overs with heavier springs to deal with the weight and Icon leaf pack. I only went 1" of lift up front to try to avoid needing new control arms and putting strain on the needle bearing.

3 of the 4 corners of the truck sit exactly how I want but even with the 1/4" spacer on the drivers side it is still 1/2" lower than the passenger side. My gas tank is near empty and the front is still low.
My hub to fender measurements are:
DF 21.5, PF 22, DR 23.5, PR 23.5

The only other thing I can think of is I would need longer/adjustable sway bar links, am I right in my thinking or should I just live with the Taco Lean forever?


Before front bumper install (I just like this photo of the truck)

 

How's your constant payload distribution?
I carry my heavy toolbox on the passenger side to (sorta) offset my weight.

 

I have maybe 50lbs constant extra on the drivers side but usually for work I offset that by loading tools more to the passenger side. For work I usually have around 200lbs of tools in the truck.
I try to be mindful to make sure weight is distributed pretty evenly.

 

Just add a little more spacer to the LF. We used to do it with a thick heavy gasket on top of the coil spring in the coilover assembly. Or trade that 1/4" thick spacer for a 1/2" one. Pretty easy fix.

Preloading the arb will bandaid a static lean bit not a low corner.

 

I would need longer bolts on the strut which means taking it apart so I would need a coil compressor. Plus another alignment.
So if it comes to that I would probably wait until next year to deal with it. Right now I just want to make sure I didn't miss something simple.

Also I only mention the sway links because when putting everything back together I had to jack the passenger side up a bit to get the link installed. The lift I got unloaded is 1.6"

 

Don't pay any attention to it. Get in it and drive. Using fuel will change lean. A big ol girl will change lean. A load in the bed will change lean. Get it?

 

It's not too big of a deal, just kinda annoying. I've lived with the lean for 3 years now, I was just hoping I finally fixed it.
If I didn't install the spacer I wouldn't care but I mostly want to make sure I didn't miss something.

 

You don't want longer bolts. You want to use a spring compressor and install it in the assembly on top of the coil effectively lengthening the free length of the spring and gaining height.

Yes, if you have unmatched corner heights it will preload the arb. This is actually helping to correct your situation in the front by applying load attempting to match wheel travels.

 

Removed my sway bar and that gave me an extra 1/4" on the drivers side.
Then swapped the struts around and it's sitting just a bit higher on the drivers side.

Now I have to decide if I want to leave the sway bar off or put it back on. Driving around the block I have a bit more body roll but it's not bad.

 

I dont understand, why not just adjust pre-load?

 

The struts aren't adjustable. I'm cheap and didn't want to spend the extra $300 for adjustable coilovers.

The coil on the drivers side must have been a bit shorter or the coil on the passenger side must have been longer. Either way it was enough of a difference to make the truck low on one side, removing the sway bar helped. Plus it took less than an hour to swap them so it wasn't that big a deal.

 

so now its sitting a bit higher on the driver side without a full tank? How much is a bit? If its only 1/4", your good to go... I dont think its even worth doing anything else at that point.

 

After swapping sides it's about 1/8" higher on the drivers side with an empty tank, which is what I wanted to begin with, so I am happy now.
Like I said one spring must have been slightly different and swapping them fixed it.

I just made this thread to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious and maybe it might help someone else down the road.

 

Doesn't make sense. Removing the arb should've made it worse. I think you have a tolerancing or measuring issue. At this point, not worth fretting over.

Also, looking at your numbers if there's a lean it must seen front and rear unless the chassis is twisting or your measurements aren't from consistent references.

 

I literally set up my portable laser level that I use for work to shoot a vertical line perfectly in the center of the hub, used a dial caliper to measure off the fender and taped both sides so I had marks in the exact same location, and marked the driveway so I measured from the same spot on the concrete to the mark on the tape.

After removing the sway bar and driving the truck around the block it raised up just under a 1/4" higher on the drivers side.
Then after swapping shocks and driving the truck around the block it raised up another 3/8" to the new final height.

Maybe I messed something up in my original install when tightening the sway bar links, plus a slight variance in the coils all added up to one side being lower.

 

Also, there's pretty big tolerances in the fenders/body so maybe in the end you're just measuring Toyota's tolerances. For general check I like to park on a level concrete pad and just measure pitch and roll angles at multiple points like the roof, bed rails, tailgate, etc. Anything more fancy I'm probably going jig and/or scales.