1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Question in regards to cold start tuning.
Pretty consistently when I start it after sitting for a couple days or so, the rpms don't immediately come up to the target idle rpm. It'll sit at like 1k for a couple seconds before then rising up to the target. And then every now and then I'll have to turn it over twice because it'll stall shortly after coming to life. Always stays started after the second crank though.

Here's my cranking and post start correction tables. Which table should I be adjusting for this kind of behavior?

 

The fuel cranking isn't relevant after you release the key.

I only have one axis in my post start correction fwiw. But beyond that, it works with your target offset RPM table, so post that. Since there's no long term correction on these duties AFAIK, you need to really set them as accurately as possible. It sounds like once it's done with the post start correction (engine running time) and moves over to the coolant temp correction it's more correct.
Since you're talking about issues when it cools fully, I'd say those 20%s are too low for your target. For mine, I have 40% to raise it 300RPM

Edit: oops, I didn't realize you posted those from the fuel table. You should be looking at the Idle Control tables. That fuel correction table is just to slow the heat rise on a cold engine - shouldn't have that much to do with your RPM issue

 

Got it. Thanks for clarifying.
Here are some of my idle control tables. To me, they seem within the range they should be. But you probably know better than I do.
Maybe increase the start base offset? Or give it more rpm offset early on?

 

Ya those look ok. Those are offsets, so what is your base Idle table looking like now?

 

Maybe the 800-1200 rpm cell in the 50-68 temp range are what needs more output.
Don't think the long term trimming can adjust for that since the gain prevents it from doing anything before 20 seconds of engine runtime.

 

Took a minute to hopefully help future SNP/Regular boomslang users. Might as well fix the problem at the source, good guys though. They always write back

 

Actually you have that set so gain will always be 30.
But ya you could try increasing those but 70% is already pretty high. I'm not sure what to give as advice here, everything I've seen so far looks fine.. though your duty cycles really shouldn't change that rapidly over 36*F in my mind

 

Possibility of a pre-existing vacuum leak?

 

That could cause some unpredictability, ya

 

No worries. that's helpful as to rule out tuning as a possible cause and give me a better idea of what a normal range should be in those tables for these motors.
I've smoke tested the intake multiple times to check for leaks, but haven't done it with the motor cold before so that's something I'll have to look into.

 

Me: Needs Haltech now

I'm hoping this will be the second faze of the turbo but I've got to do some more learning (and actually get the turbo on)

Glad to see more support for the A340 side of things too.


You guys are all great for making things like this possible in garages all over

 

Testing the "black box"

 

Nice I like that you got a little project box for it and everything. Also is your dash flocked?

 

Naw, you asked me that before, it's fabric

 

Just such an uncommon thing it caught me off guard.

 

So turns out my Park/Neutral sensor is bad or something. I get 0.2V when I should be seeing battery voltage? Or is power to STA only when cranking?


If so, this seems to contradict:




PSA the answer to this question is that you only get a P/N switch signal to the "STA" pin on crank, meaning there is no directly tap-able P/N signal on the ECU. Other options to try are are the combination meter and the transmission switch.

 

Got to probing some questions pins this week. Here are these for an A/T if they help anyone.

Overdrive (O/D) output from gear shift lever area:


Park (P) only from gear shift lever (one of 2 ways you can get Park separate from Neutral - other is below). Note the leftmost wire is always ground.



Transmission Shifter which includes:
- Park/Neutral (P/N) sensor
- Park (P) signal
- Reverse (R) signal
- Neutral (N) signal
- Drive (D) signal --note that Drive allegedly only goes to cruise control harness, if equipped. Unknown if wire exists for those w/o CC.
- 2nd gear limited (2) signal
- Low (1st) gear limited (L) signal

 

If it’s at all useful, here is the pinout diagram of the neutral safety switch commonly referenced for 5 speed swaps to wire up the clutch switches.



Looks like it may be numbered backwards from your diagram.

 

Thanks for the input. I'm not sure why that has 5 as empty (and looks like it is my 5 also, so neutral) but it looks like #3 is power, which was my assumption for my 7, but still a question.

 

Anyone want to talk about IAT with me today? Mostly just wondering what others are seeing with boost and how much ignition retard and above what level they're retarding. I was always taught to start backing timing out above 135* on pump 91 but I'm sure for the SC guys they'd be in the negatives pretty quick haha. Anyone using the Auto VE temp correction in the fuel map or is everyone so far leaving it static?

For the SC guys a roots blower in the more efficient parts of its compressor map the rough gain in temp is 14* for every 1psi generated. Unfortunately the curve is exponential too so as you spin it faster it gets much worse. That adds up fast with no intercooler

Interesting bit of reading...
https://www.departmentofboost.com/w...etween-positive-displacement-and-centrifugal/