OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

The stock pressure switch in an ARB Dual is 150/135 psi with a 180 psi release valve.

https://www.arb.com.au/site/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/3-06.pdf

I bought mine used so I’ve replaced it with a 140/110 psi switch and it’s working fine. I used 3/8” air brake line for all my runs, I think it’s rated for 300 psi working pressure.

I suppose it depends on what the rating of your compressor output is. However, with no tank your pressure will drop quickly when you start to air the tires and reach the cutoff pressure almost as quickly. It’ll probably seem just like it turns on when you apply the chuck and off when you remove it.

 

Thanks.

Yep. That’s kinda what the plan is.

It’s an older MV50 compressor. The max working pressure is 120 psi

My initial plan was to use a 70/100 pressure switch because it’ll meet my needs just fine.

 

Think about any toys you might use it for as well but 110/145 should be fine. If you never do road bike tires you could go with a lower range and save some wear and heat in the compressor.

 

I put my compressor in a cross-bed tool box. Its a surplus Viair 450 out of a JD planter. Choice of location is mostly out of laziness - and not wanting it to end up working in some hot out of the way spot on the truck. Ran power through a #6 welding cable from a circuit breaker under the hood and the switch that actuates the compressor is inside the tool box, lid is then open to cool it. I don't have a locker to actuate - the air source is just for tires, tools or Firestone air bags - all of which you have to get out of the cab and deal with personally. The Viair uses enough amps - that it is best to run the engine while its working hard. I've got the factory tow package alternator for power and usually shut off the AC.

That said, I'm prone to overwork stuff that has a duty cycle you have to obey - so I fitted the unit with a 85-105 pressure switch. The 450 compressor 100% duty cycle is right at 21 amps/100 psi - and I figure the less times the unit hits a thermal limit - the better. I added a small mil surplus aluminum tank on a pigtail hose that lets me move it around in the bed to accommodate loads. When more capacity is required, I have an additional, portable 5 gallon receiver to plumb into the circuit with quick connects. So far it has worked well.......

 

I ran my air bag lines into the cab under the center console where they’re fed through solenoid air switches so I can do at least that bit on the fly. I borrowed the idea for the switch panel from Iggy but included 2 - 1” pressure gauges, 4 - push switches, and a pressure regulator knob.

 

I would have to say that the mounted and functional air supply is one of the best mods I've put on the truck. Really worth the effort to design, install and maintain.

 

Pulled the trigger on a buncha fittings and shit I need to redo my system. Ended up ordering a 70/100 pressure switch. It should work for what I need the compressor to do.

I may add a small tank down the road but at the moment I don’t think I need one.

 

What’s everyone using as dust/mud caps for the female quick connects?

I’ve seen chair leg tips and other random stuff being used.

Looking for something that’ll cover the whole fitting and has a tether on it.

These Parker caps seem like they’ll almost do the job, but I wish they were about 1/2” long so they’d cover a little more.

 

I went down this rabbit hole with my ARB single. I ended up with a piece of 1/8" steel sheet from the scrap bin, drilling some holes for the fender dong bolts and compressor bolts and making it work that way. It was pretty tight with a single, so a double would be tricky.

 

Add a chair leg cap with the end cut off

 

I ended up ordering these

$18 Dixon Valve K4DC Nitrile ISO-A Interchange Hydraulic Fitting, Dust Cap, 1/2" Coupling, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DE8V4G4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

If I wanted to just add a remote connection to the front of the truck, can I just use the 1/8" BSP ports on the ARB manifold, or is that going to just reduce air flow? This will only be used for filling up tires.

Thanks!

 

Just added oba

 

@TacoEspecial What compressor and can you send a pic of your manifold connections?

 

It's a dual arb with their manifold for dual lockers.

 

Anyone needs parts off a ARB dual compressor?

Mine died when one bolt sheared and another backed out. It's rebuildable, but all parts are backordered, so I bought a new one.

 

Pressure switches are interchangeable, and I thought ARB’s 70-100 was a little low, so I found a 90-120psi switch and installed it into my new compressor.
Should still be plenty for lockers and tires, but also help with the pump’s longevity.

 

Here’s my version. I used the All-Pro Off-Road bed box, and modified it to be much more weather-proof. The box is designed to mount the compressor inside, but I chose to mount the compressor up front, and use the box for the switch, air coupler, and storage. The switch housing was built into a generic weatherproof junction box with a distribution block for the switch wiring and an extra 10awg power wire.

The switch wiring loom and a 3/8” DOT air line run up the frame into the engine compartment. I’m using the ARB single mounted on the SLEE mount. A 4-way fitting accommodates the pressure switch, additional air coupler, and an 18” braided SS leader hose.

The ARB main wiring loom was simplified and connects directly to my custom AUX fuse panel. You can also turn the compressor on from the engine compartment by jumping the switch circuit with a standard 10amp fuse. The switch in the bed box is tied directly to the battery so you can use the compressor with the engine off (briefly) for airing up bike tires.

 

How will running at higher pressure and current make it last longer?

 

The pressure switch that comes installed on the compressor is 130-150psi.