System check, I'm a bit nervous about starting the truck again

I wrecked my 2006 Tacoma, I'm a novice, I'm looking for advice or reminders about things to look for when preparing to start the truck after 6 months of repairing it. She was running after the impact so I hope that means she go again. Body shop fixed the apron, No frame damage....

I had the steering wheel air bag deploy on the accident. I'm about to replace the air bag and I broke the clock spring removing the airbag so it's getting replaced too. The seat belt is locked up so that gets replaced. I believe I need to clear the codes after replacing these to over come the immobilizer functions....Is that correct?

Should I reuse the two front airbag sensors or do they have to be replaced after a collision?

They look fine, nothing jabbed them or even touched them, the passenger side got a bunch of AFT dumped on it from the power steering reservoir. I cleaned it with water in a spray bottle to get up in the clip. I've let it dry and plugged it all back in.

This weekend I'm gonna replace the Radiator and AC Condenser and Trans oil cooler. I'm gonna wait on the AC recharge for a while....Radiator and Trans Oil cooler lines have sat open/unplugged for a while. Should I worry about contaminates in either system?

Next weekend I'll finish the airbag replacement and hook a battery up, see what codes it gives me, written them down, clear the codes, start her up and look for leaks!

I'd love input on the brakes as well, That system wasn't affected in the crash but it's been sitting 6 months, Rotors are pretty rusty.

Let me know what you think, Thanks for the input!

 

Awwww come on no pics

 

Ok ....After the crash and before the body shop

 

I had to pull open the dash for the body shop to weld in the new apron fender. The carpeting need to be pulled away so it didn't catch fire. I cleaned the HVAC Box and reinstalled.

 

the immobilizer is separate from the airbag system, the airbag system will send a signal to the PCM to cut the fuel pump when a crash is detected but a key cycle resets it.

Typically when there is a collision with airbag deployment the affected crash sensors, airbags, pretensioners, and the airbag ECU have to be replaced.

 

IMO: the amount of time the truck has sat idle shouldn't be a major issue, except for the AC being open. Moisture is the most serious contaminant to worry about. It will have to be completely evacuated via a strong vacuum once all the needed parts are replaced, checked for any leaks and then recharged.

As to the time it has sat idle, (rotors, engine, etc) think of the time it has been sitting this way: Many/most cars sit on a dealer lot for that amount of time and longer than that with no ill effects except maybe a dead battery. If the rotors are stuck to the pads (unlikely unless you live in a tropical climate) they should pop free when you move it. (consider trying reverse first)

Only other thing I would say is maybe try to crank it first without actually having the possibility for it to actually start. I'd be most worried about angry Air Bags coming back to life or an abnormal noise or knock. I can't advise how to do this with your truck. I think with mine it's a simple fuse removal but not 100% sure on that either. I would also do the start from outside reaching through the drivers side from a position lower than the steering wheel with the door open.

Remember to disconnect the negative battery cable before or during any work on the Air Bag system. Me: I pull the positive cable too when I'm disturbing anything that talks to the Air Bag system.

Good luck and please send "progress pics".

If you get discouraged just remember what Aurelio said to John Wick in the second movie when he asked him if he could fix up his 1969 Boss 429:


"I can fix this..."

 

Airbag ECU as well? Damn...I kinda suspected I might get hit with more big gotcha's. It'll probably throw a code for that too huh? Any chance a scan tool could reset it?

I'll see what codes are present, but yeah good heads up. Oh yeah and I should check all the fuses....I'll be reading up on that now.

Thanks, as always, for the expertise.

 

In the body shop.....You don't see them like this much!

 

EDIT: adding re: open lines (transmission cooler, radiator lines, emissions hoses and pipes, etc): put a piece of tape over the ends to keep out bugs, dirt, etc. Nothing over the top: painters tape, vinyl electrical tape ... anything that will stick and won't leave a mess when you take it off. I'd cover the ends of the a/c lines as well. Pay special attention to anything that isn't supposed to carry water, like air injection pipes, blower motors and any emissions parts and hoses.

 

I'm not sure about ours but most Airbag Modules have to be replaced/refurbished after a deployment because they are event data recorders and once event data is written it locks itself to prevent tampering/erasing of the data.

 

I'm getting closer

 

You been busy…

 

Not bad for a few weekends.

Things I've done since i got it back from the body shop.

Dash reassembled
Power Steering Pump Pulley swapped
New Fan, Fan Clutch and Shroud
New AC lines and Condenser
New Radiator and Trans Cooler
New Clock Spring, Air Bag and Seat Belt
New Air Bag Sensors and Control Module
New Bumper Bar

She's holding fluids!

I need a couple fuses, Battery charged and I'm gonna turn her on!

I'm waiting on a Hood ....back ordered for three more month...ugh!

 

Alright the moment I've been waiting for has coming and.....

She started up! no problem, first try! For real, what a good day!

I checked all my lights...Check
I checked my radiator fluid.....Check
I checked my power steering fluid....Check
A/C remains for later

Scan Tool gave me my old code of ABS Wheel Sensor C1236 and 5 TPMS Codes! I cleared them and turned the key, Fired right up. I added fluids but I haven't let her come up to temp yet.

Next I need to get check the transmission fluid. I lost some thru the broken oil cooler towing it back and forth from the body shop. I'm gonna get that squared and run her up to temp. Fenders, Hood, and Grille don't come till August or Sept I'm told. I've got some time.

Thanks everyone here! I definitely couldn't have done it without you all. Thanks so much!

 

Great news and really nice work. I've always been impressed by the experts here and their willingness to spend time helping strangers on the internet. Too many to mention without missing someone....but you know who you are. You make this an amazing community.

 

A couple days ago I found a coolant drip from the Heater core and pushed the hose one tighter and adjusted the hose clamp. No more drip.

Today I ran her up to temp. She sounded great. I ran her parked for about 30 minutes. She held good at 190.4 degrees. I used a scan tool that can tell me Live Data.

Next weekend I'm gonna do the Transmission Drain and Fill. I know I lost fluid from open Trans Oil Cooler lines. I had a small trail of Red being towed to and from the body shop. I monitored the Transmission Oil Temp to see how long it take to get over 95 degrees and how long I might have till it gets to 115. I don't think I saw it get that high but I determined I'd have plenty of time.

Are there other Live parameters that I should be looking at with concern? Fuel Trim? Can you tell oil pressure with Live Data? I realize now I forgot to check the Alternator was putting out voltage...Doh! It's on the list. Thanks

 

Sounds like you should be good to go, you could look at fuel trims if you like but if yo have no codes pop up I'd say your probably fine.
There is no engine oil pressure sensor so there's no data PID for oil pressure.