Transmition lurch

You don't want the truck to move while you're putting it in gear. Make sure your securely on the brake pedal.

 

I don't understand why is everyone thinking I'm not doing it right. It's not my first car. Why do I need to slam the breaks in order to have this issue go away. I'm not idling the truck. It's all normal rpm (about 700) and it's still doing it. It's not normal and whay do I have to have different routine driving than all my other trucks.

 

I don’t know what you’ve owned before, but the taco 3.5L is rated for 270HP and in high idle situations it will definitely surprise you when you put it in drive without enough brake application

 

I would say I had similar indications as described aside from the "metal sound". I wait until idle to stabilize before shifting into gear. I still get the jerking motion when trying to back into a space- stopping and going while parking- however issue has become less noticeable as I put some miles on the truck.

Not sure if this is correct at all but I believe these trucks have auto locking/unlocking torque converters and that maybe it locking and unlocking while coasting, maybe someone else can confirm this.

 

Check the u joints with the rear end off the ground and report back. Hell, if one has failed, you might not need to lift the tires free to find it. A small lurch is normal when changing directions, a big one indicates there is slacl being taken up somewhere, especially if its a bigger lurch when changing direction, compared to when just outting the transmission in drive or reverse from park.

 

Check fluid level

 

OP, I'm sorry. this is how TW works. You get lots of answers that you don't need, lots that don't relate, and sometimes useful things.

 

Did you try it or just dismiss their suggestion?

 

Why would I want todeal with noise and jerking transmition on brand new truck. I did what they said but the problem is still there. Do you normally saddle for half if you you paid for full?

 

I've noticed this - if I start the vehicle, keep my foot on the brake, and then put it in drive - it will lurch forward and almost start rolling on its own.
To remedy thidy this I - start the vehicle, remove my foot from the brake, re-hit the brake, and then put it in drive.

I think it's because the brake booster has no boost the first time you apply the brake, while the engine is off...so it's a really weak application of the brakes. Once it's started, and the vacuum system has even 3 seconds to build boost, if you re-apply the brake, it is a more firm (and boosted) application of the brakes. This prevents any lurch when putting the transmission into a drive gear from Park.

Because we all own the same truck as you, and experience the same thing as you. Furthermore, the dealership checked it and gave you the solution. Should you choose to listen - or keep thinking your vehicle is defective is up to you.

 

mine does this in the morning, i park backwards in the garage and i dont want to wait for my garage to fill up with exhaust so i shift within a few seconds of start up and idle out of the garage. Its normal

 

And because we all own the same truck it doesn't mean it's okay for it to be wrong. I don't need to settle for some crap excuse from dealership telling me it's normal and I don't understand why would you too unless you work for the dealership. If you would have buy TV and only half of the screen was off and the sales person or technician told you that's normal because 100 other users have the same issue, would you agree with them?

 

At many dealerships everything is "normal" because they want to do as little warranty work as possible instead of prioritizing satisfying the customer. If you're not satisfied, try another dealership. You're under no obligation to have it serviced where you bought it.

 

the noise is likely the auto trans parking pin releasing or driveline tolarances responding to tension. I dont know if this is something to "deal with" its just a characteristic of the truck.

the best way to ruin a car ownership experience is to try to fix problems that dont exist.

 

Ok. Now this sounds like legit answer to my question

 

My first 21 OR Tacoma did this. My second 23 OR Tacoma does this. My dad's 19 SR5 does this. My good friends 20 OR Tacoma did this. I've personally driven 4 different tacos, and they all did this.

 

lol...and we have no reason to lie to you - nor are we there to feel what you are feeling (but the dealership was) - and they make money to fix it - Toyota *pays them* to fix any problem that exists.

That said - we all notice the same issue when the pedal isn't pressed firmly - whether that be from low vacuum boost (from initial starting) - or from not pressing the pedal hard enough. All of us. Every single one of us. The fact that the dealership told you to press the brake pedal more firmly cements our suspicion that you need to press the brake pedal more firmly.

So no, a tv not working is completely different. You expect that you can change gears and not have the vehicle momentum change and start going if the brake pedal isn't firmly applied?

At the end of the day, we could certainly be wrong - and there could be a major concern with your truck - but we've all experienced it, we've tried to help, so not sure why the attitude.

Yeah...and you know how you eliminate that? By pressing firmly on the brake pedal when you shift...and by applying the parking brake FULLY before putting it into park if parking on an incline - before the vehicle comes to rest on the parking pawl.

 

LOL, yes but if you park on any type of incline your pin will be under tension and would result in a less than smooth release.

 

It doesn't rest on the parking pawl if you apply the emergency brake properly, and let the emergency brake hold the vehicle - as it was designed, before putting it in park so it never rests on the parking pawl. Your parking pawl will never be under that tension - unless the emergency brake fails to hold the vehicle. Period.

 

then people will complain they have to actually use the parking brake as designed