LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

We talked a little about it a long time ago. It's not really a difficult problem to solve. The only thing that changes are the Compressor, and the lines. Im going to reuse the condenser/reciever-drier, evaporator, and expansion valve from the tacoma. No need to change it, at least not yet. Once the truck is running and driving, I'll buy or make custom lines to connect the expansion valve inlet/outlet to the condenser and compressor. Going to use the OEM compressor clutch wire to activate the GM compressor clutch. Seems pretty straight forward, unless I'm missing something.

 

It’s an R4 compressor. Using the oem compressor wouldn’t gain you anything, you wouldn’t be able to use the factory hard lines.

 

I had two take a shit on me in this truck, hence why I’m replacing the evap core and expansion valve.

 

powertrays setup going down. The aftermarket wiring was a shit show, so im over that. Ordered 50 ft of 0/1 and I’ll use that to do the big 3 and switch pros power.

 

If you didn’t know this truck hella bread worth of suspension you would’ve thought it was totaled by the way the interior and engine bay look currently.

 

yeah that dash bar shows how dumb Toyota engineers can be… having it thru bolt from the door jamb on the drivers side than having the pull the cowl to pull that bolt as well…. Just dumb

 

Also while you’re changing the heater core might as well get someone who can aluminum tig weld to weld some an bungs on it to make your heater core plumbing easier. And your right no reason to even try to fit a Toyota compressor, it’s on the wrong side so making that work is pretty much impossible unless you can make it mount backwards cause upside down isint an option.

 

The MT parking brake is in the way of the new throttle pedal, no way around it. I bought a A/T parking brake pedal and cable for like 80$ on eBay, it’ll be here soon. I want to have both those mounted before I put the dash back in.

 

Im probably just going to use regular rubber hose and clamps because of how easy it is to do. Gonna save the AN headache for power steering.

 

It’s just nice to have them at least in that connection for bleeding air since it will be your highest point in the coolant system besides the radiator. Can look into just using push loc fittings with regular rubber hose designed for them, allows for sharper 90’s using a 90 fitting than using molded hose and whatnot.

 

Holley EFI ECU mounted to where JD Fab’s battery box goes. I’ll relocate the battery tray to the bed.

Cadillac CTS DBW pedal installed. The angle looks retarded but it feels no different than the stock pedal.

 

The can someone take a pic of their AC compressor plug and their ABS wire plugs and post them here for me?

 

Easier to heel-toe now.

 

On an automatic? So left foot can keep tapping to the music?

 

Yup. Lol.

Left foot braking is where it's at though.

 

Speaking of, would be killer to see this truck in the dunes or a rally course.

 

Only off-road or closed course. On the street I am too lazy. I learned on a manual, plus I play drums so left foot always wants to tap tap tap haha

 

Lol. I could see that. Sometimes when I swap to an auto, ai have a synaptic brainfart and try to press the clutch peddle. That's a noggin shaker!

 

Evap and heater core done, put the crash bar in and found this guy. I can’t find any broken wires anywhere. I was meticulously careful moving the crash bar so I can with certainty say it wasn’t me who broke this connector. Someone’s had the dash out before I owned it.

 

Is that possibly an old stereo connector that got left is after a replacement by a previous owner?