Retaining factory mic location

The original post referenced above is a few years old so was wondering if wiring would be the same for a 3rd gen truck?

 

From my research 3rd gen and 2nd gen mics are wired the same, but I've never taken apart a 3rd gen.

 

Did the wiring mod on the stock headphone: it's very easy to access, just pry the console away from the roof. All the wires have connectors. While I had everything taken apart, I came up with an easier and more reversible method to wire the microphone than the Tundra guy has described. I took photos and will post later if this works. However...

After getting the mic prepped, I moved to the other part of the task: finding the brown/yellow wires on the K7 (rearview camera) connector.

Turns out there's two brown wires and no yellow wires. One of the brown wires appears to be hooked into the rear video signal, matching with a black wire on the other side, which suggests it's a ground (and not positive, like the instructions say -- but then there's two browns so who knows). Super frustrated since I was all geared up to make this mod happen. Had to stop work and button things up to let a storm pass. When I'm feeling it again, I will break out the multimeter and try to trace where the mic wires end up in the factory harnesses.

 

Sub

 

Bummed I so wanted to purchase this product

 

Anyone have tips for routing the drop-in mic from OP? I have the overhead console out and the drop-in mic inserted in the console, but now I need to route the 3.5 mm adapter to the HU.

 

I would also be interested in any tips with routing the mic wire

 

fish the wire between the roof and ceiling from the console to the A pillar then down under the steering wheel above the pedals.

 

I have a Teyes CC3 head-unit that I just purchased. I asked Teyes about using my OEM mic and they said the OEM mic can be installed into #19 and #20 of socket A on the harness. Having never seen where the OEM Mic terminates to the original Entune stereo my question is this. Are there only two wires (plus and neg) that terminate here?

 

So, I just faced the same issue with my 2015 Tacoma Pre-Runner. I wound up Splicing the 3.5mm plug to the black and gray/white wires in the #5 top and bottom locations (I'm sure there's an official number) of the primary radio plug from the vehicle harness. I, then, cut the factory microphone from the circuit board with the black/white wires attached. I spliced these black and white wires to the light brown and black wires from the circuit board plug. This left the red and dark brown wires unused.This also eliminated the circuit board. After securing these splices, I stuck the 3.5mm plug into the back of my new Kenwood DNX697S. I mounted the factory microphone back on the circuit board box (sans board), stuck it into it's original receptacle on the back of the overhead panel, and put the panel back together...voila. This kept my factory look overhead while using the factory wiring and eliminating the need for me to route the long aftermarket microphone wire down the "A" post, over the steering column, and over the river and through the woods. However, the method is pretty irreversible. But, why would I want to? The factory microphone now uses the microphone amplification in my new aftermarket stereo (which has an adjustable amplification) and I keep the great sounding factory mic. The Kenwood also has microphone background noise reduction so, while I lost the factory mic amp, I gained a whole treasure trove of amplification and other tools to adjust the voice input. Took about an hour including soldering the splices, isolating the same with heat shrink, and re-securing the wiring harnesses to look like factory work.

 

Most excellent! Would you be inclined to show photos?

What ever happened to this adapter project? Wondering what it would take to start up again. Really wish there was a model we could 3D print. All these unique connectors drive me nuts. I’ve learned over my short time here on earth that said frustration is usually due to ignorance; half the battle is just knowing the dang name of things. Then another 1/4 is finding where/how they’re made and then getting it made.

I wish the folks that make these head units and do the harness for all the connectors would just make one for the factory mic too. Is there something technically special about the mic that calls for a full replacement with a standard 3.5/2.5mm mic or is it just a snowflake harness that makes it special?

 

The adapter project is definitely dead.

I went around this with rescuric and then i ended up drawing up this diagram:



However I ended up just pulling the stock mic out of the headliner and putting the aftermarket mic with the RCA plug in the little box the stock mic is mounting in and just routing the cable above the headliner and down the A-pillar on the passenger side. Sound quality is great and no one complains, for me it was much easier than doing all the soldering.

 

Ok I appreciate the info. This is what I was considering doing as well. To be clear, do you mean you pulled the OEM mic out of that little slotted housing inbetween the two lights, and stuffed the mic in there?

P.S. Your attached photo isn't coming through for some reason

 

i'm at work but so i can't take any pictures but essentially i just removed the stock mic from the area it sits in stock and replaced it with the aftermarket unit... i *think* i used a couple dabs of hot glue or double sided tape or something to keep the aftermarket mic from bouncing around in the compartment.

 

That works just the same. I just don’t like the stray wires in mine. My method just splices the mic and 3.5mm plug to each end of the factory wiring.

 

I wrote up a DIY that shows you don't need to run a new mic cable. No one bothered to respond to it, but here it is: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-diy-oem-mic-retention-2014-carplay-android-auto.799856/

 

are you still doing this? I'm interested.