3rd gen Locking front hubs?

Technically they should be called Un-locking hubs. Early 4X4's didn't have them and everything in the front was turning all the time. It just wasn't engaged with the transfer case until you shifted into 4X4. It was after WW-2 when surplus Jeeps and 4X4 trucks hit the civilian market along with commercial versions that there was a demand to be able to unlock the front hubs. It reduced wear and improved fuel mileage.

Short term it doesn't hurt a thing to leave the hubs locked. Any time snow was predicted, or as soon as I turned off pavement I always locked mine and was able to quickly shift into and out of 4X4 as needed. I've owned more trucks/SUV's with manual locking hubs than without over the years. And part of me wants to trust them more. But the reality is that I've seen just as many manual locking hubs fail as automatic locking hubs. And there haven't been many of either.

I think it comes back to engaging 4X4 and getting in a few miles regularly. Every time I've seen hubs fail to engage it was on a vehicle that had not been used in 4X4 on a regular basis. Manual hubs or automatic.

 

I am interested

 

This can and has been done, there was a kit or two around at some point. Most of the parts are factory Toyota, though there may be some machining mods to the CV or hub… most of the parts come from early gen 1 Tacoma trucks. A heavy duty kit with larger CV joints and 30 spline parts is also buildable.

 

Years ago I did a locking hub conversion on my dad's Montero Sport and my wife's Montero. They both noticed a lighter feel to the steering and since pop was OCD about monitoring his fuel economy he reported about a 1mpg increase. Not a huge difference but notable as it was about a 7% increase. Those trucks also unlocked the one axle from the differential like Toyota does but it was a very easy conversion on those trucks.

 

Does anyone have any info on the kits? It looks like the (old) manual hub will fit the (new) front bearing. CV shafts are different; old is 26/27 spline and new is 30/30 spline? Any info on the “machining” that was required?

 

I’m working out the fine details on the 30 spline parts right now.

 

Off to the machine shop.

 

I did the 2" lift without the needle bearing change, no issues.

 

Nice Aisin! Do you have part numbers for the CV shafts?

 

Using Land Cruiser UZJ100 front CV Axles. Complete axle # 43430-60040. Some machining and small parts will be required for Tacoma use.

 

I'm just asking, no conclusions stated. There may be a yet unstated advantage to having the front axels turning at all times with our IFS axels. With each action of the suspension the axel boots are flexed; with locking hubs that flex is concentrated in a common area most of the time as the axels are not turning. Yes, that will change with each activation/deactivation of the hubs. With the way Toyota set up our trucks the boots will wear evenly as they are always turning, exposing a constantly changing flex point. For those that do not use their 4WD ever their boots may last longer. Of course, what is being discussed here is for those who do anticipate MUCH 4WD use.

 

So, on that hub you are going to have a hole put through the center for the axel shaft to come through and 6 (M8x1.25?) threaded holes for the locking hub to attach to. Are you sleeving the center hole with any bushing? Or is the support inward adequate? Mind you I have not had any of these parts disassembled to know at all what I'm inquiring about.

I like that this thread from 2019 was revived.

 

For the most part, boots receive significantly more wear while rotating/operating. Especially when the design limits are exceeded by running the suspension too high.

Yes, you have the gist of it. Take a look at the manual hubs for the gen 1 trucks. The hubs will have bearings installed for the shafts to rotate. It’s mostly factory engineered stuff being applied here. Just larger parts from a heavier vehicle.

 

Nice Land Cruiser builds - looking forward to seeing the results on the CV axles.

 

@05Taco4x4 made the magic happen but ran into supply issues with COVID. I don’t know if it ever picked back up but he figured it all out already using OEM and even an aftermarket discounted kit. Not sure how he did it but it may die with him. I build 1st Gen kits and don’t have issues with the hub, just not sure where he got the CVs made or if they are a JDM part from another truck.

 

Yes, the conversion using Gen 1 parts is a little easier, and less expensive. The parts are much smaller, though. We could apply these BIG parts to the Gen 1, but a bit more work including an 8” front diff.

 

The kits were for 2nd and 3rd gen setups. I have a some CVs to try and make some ends work just no time right now. He had it all sorted and sold kits.

 

Any info on this previous kit? Cost of the kit? That is what I am looking at - conversion with Gen 1 parts.

 

This thread is pretty dope, I’m interested in manual hubs cause I hate rebuilding my long travel axles. Lol

 

The 1st gen Tacoma manual hubs are only 27 spline. I haven't blown one up with 35s yet but I'm not sure they'd hold up so well under the additional weight of a 2nd or third gen...

The 79-85 hubs are 30 spline and would probably be more up to the task. Dimensionally the hub body is pretty similar, I think the hub OD is the same.

I'm really interested in seeing how it all comes together