Anderson Engineering Manifold Spacer install

Still putting a smile on my face. Nothing has changed. It's still doing what it's supposed to do, and I'm still enjoying the fact that it is.
I still highly recommend.

 

Yo the adaptive cruise feels so much better with the Mani spacer on the interstate. I’m straight chilling 85mph left lane. Also I haven’t seen anything under 18mpg city’ after install.

 

That's where it interests me! (+towing)

 

I haven't taken a trip long enough to set the cruise control for...........yet.

 

We’ll find your local Buckees and get going lmfao

 

Do. It. Be mindful of the harness and the far back bolt. I was wrestling it for a bit. Get the harness out the mfin way. GGs

 

You’re one of those cali” blokes huh mate ? I reckon no one takes you serious.

 

LOL!!!
Already know where it is. As soon as I finish the update on my stereo, I'll be doing just that.

 

First and foremost thanks to those who installed it and provided the useful feedback in the most basic form, the butt Dyno. My question is I have already flashed my ECU with the Overland Tune, if I install the spacer do I have to reflash my tune or reset anything before I can see the results?

 

You should not need a reflash.

 

You should see results without any changes to the tune.

Theoretically, refining the tune for the spacer should give even more benefit.

 

You won't need a reflash. I have a KDMaxx tune on mine, and I noticed the difference immediately.

 

Butt dyno reports, from both tuned and untuned have me convinced to try it. I live in south of Pittsburgh, so having a bit more low end will be very noticeable right off the bat. But first I need to see about some random stumbling/bucking under light acceleration out of a sharp turn. My scanner isn't showing any codes, but I have a hard left turn on my daily drive home that consistently results in this behavior, and I'm wondering if the stability or traction control modules are doing something wonky.

 

too high of a gear, not enough accelerator input to force a downshift. think, manual transmission or motorcycle in wrong gear. doubting the spacer with completely fix the bucking. best to drive in town in S4 below 50, or S5 below 65. good luck, some of us have been fighting this a long time. more than likely a torque converter lock up, or shudder issue. Ski

 

ha, my MT does it when in the correct gear... I would argue 2000-3500 rpm isn't "too low" of an RPM to open the throttle but the computer already severely limits the amount the throttle blade opens at "low" RPM.

 

Correct, on ATs the issue is related to the TC solenoid is switching ON and causing 200 rpms drop.
I belive the person has MT.

 

Mines a manual, it's a turn I can usually drift through about 15-20mph, dropping from 4th to 2nd, and accelerating up the incline of the hill. I'm not mashing the pedal to the floor, but I'm not not giving throttle input either. If I have to come to a stop before turning due to traffic, it will exhibit the same behavior after upshifting to 2nd. The hill starts with a gentle but increasing slope, no bumps or curbs to drive up over. Its actually currently being repaved, so it has to be something with the combination of bodyroll and differing wheel speed.

 

Is yours a third gen?

If TC engages on mine there is a ton of racket from the firewall region. I actually hear the TC engaging before I feel it

 

Yes, '22. Not quite 10k on it yet, picked it up at the end of september. I've posted about the lurching/lugging under similar drivong conditions in the MT accumulator thread. My first two checks for signs of driveline slop/failed u-joints, loose bolts, etc didn't show anything amiss. I'll have another chance to check everything over this weekend.

I don't hear anything clicking/popping, I just get this forward/backward shimmy like it's bouncing the rear axle, and it's not bumps in the road causing it. It's like it's misifiring or cutting power for some reason under light to moderate throttle input.