1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

That's crossed my mind too but I've seen it used on a lot of waste spark engines including the 2JZ. It might just be that the fuel load injected during the exhaust stroke on the waste cylinder isn't enough to do anything besides create a little noise. But in general unless the engine has some odd requirements haltech is recommending on new tunes to do it entirely sequential if possible. I noticed that in a lot of their new maps too that they're completely blanking out async

 

Makes me wanna disable async on my tune and seeing what kind of an affect it has

 

You'll still need to probably take up the slack with your sync side of your tune, it's an A + B thing.

 

@Speedytech7 do you know if anything about our trucks need to be changed physically to run E85? Hoses, seals? Not even sure if the injectors Gabe/LCE sells are ethanol certified

 

Fuel feed line to the rail from the hardline and fuel return hoses at the tank and rail are rubber and should be changed to rubber that is e85 rated. Other than that if your pump is rated for it the main feed from the tank to the hardline is already a nylon line and fine. The injector seals you probably want to switch to viton but even so they should be fine. Running e85 isn't that terrible but occasionally run some 93 through to wet things down again, and don't store it with 85 for a long time and itll be fine.

 

cool, not bad. I had to see if the Walbro 255 is E85-ok and it seems like it is from a paragraph on Summit. So just a few soft hoses it sounds like. Don't really plan on using it but I did get my flex fuel sensor plumbed the other day, so I'm just pondering..

Supposedly we finally have an E85 station near me though! ("51-83%" wtf?)

 

the injectors that LCE/gabe sells are E85 compatible

 

Yeah should bring a fuel tester and get a feel for your station first haha. Ours locally tests out to 88% regularly.

 

Id1050x injectors are E85 compatible.

 

I had a sputtering 1st start yesterday and then it died after 2 seconds.

Uh, I'm running into the trigger issues. My camshaft wiring isn't a home run to the sensor and uses the same negative as the crank. I could turn on the ground reference in the settings before opting for separating the wires out. Back in the AEM FIC 6 days, cam and crank using the same negative was fine, but a 2.2k resistor bridge was needed across the Camshaft +/-. Haltech has filters in the software, those might be worth exploring. Looks like I need to sort out my arming voltages too. I'm also flooding the engine.. I need to turn off all the correction tables until I get it running with one base map.. too many variables. I'm also trying to get my TDC offset angle verified (using 90* right now), just need someone to turn the key for me while I use the timing light. (sigh) I might have to talk to my neighbor to get their key turning help ... man I hate socializing IRL.

 

Would you like some baselines? We have the general trigger settings and thresholds if you want them.

 

I can send you my base map if that would help. Sounds like you're running pretty blind

 

TDC offset is 153*

 

Yes, please.

Yes, please.

Thank you.

 

Here this will probably help a lot, definitely don't use it since your injectors and wiring will be different but the trigger and basic engine functions data is all there as a guide

 

Mine is 155*...hmm... guess that just means my ignition table will be 2* more retarded?

 

Here is what I was sent preloaded and what I'm currently running. Same disclaimer as above. What ECU you running btw?

 

It's just a baseline to get him started, you need to verify it with a timing light always on every truck you start tuning

 

Haltech 2500 Elite, just the regular one.

Appreciate y'all sending me what you've got, this will help me tremendously, thank you.

 

Well I'm just saying it was always a question in my mind if that was accurate from SNP. Not sure the full implications if it's not exact