MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Found my problem it was the new clutch masters pressure plate it about 0.1000 of an inch taller so it hits the fork I don’t recommend getting a clutch masters clutch kit.

 

Wow. I know a person that got one and was happy. Not sure if he has the ADM or not, but I believe so.

Can the fork be filed down a bit there? It should not be a high stress area.

 

Yeah I had to take the whole trans back out just to sand the fork down. It just messed me up because I just put new trans and clutch pack in last night and did the accumulator delete and I had this fork hitting pressure plate problem. But glad I found the issue but didn’t like having to grind on the fork but she a beast now. Shifts like butter and feels like a new truck with the 4:56s on 315/70/17

 

I sorta know where you're coming from. I pulled it to swap the TOB a few months back. Hella project.

Thanks for the tip though. That's gonna be a big deal as there are only a couple aftermarket clutch suppliers for us.


Glad it is running well though. You should be set for a loooooong time.

 

I used lv brake fluid. Honestly maybe a little less stiff in the winter but hard to tell without a side by side comparison back to back

 

i run this stuff in my 6mt corolla and theres a massive difference in the winter time. i will be using this in my tacoma when i get around to doin adm

 

Guys I'll admit I'm pretty ignorant on 3rd gen MT. So I'll just ask, and away we go.... Today I drove my old G2 taco out to the National Grasslands to let my kid practice MT. I immediately noticed several things

It took far more preasure to engage, once engaged it handled the shifting in a narrower band and performs the process much quicker. The truck also seems to have more power the second the clutch is completely released but I'm guessing that's more a function of the 4.0...

If what I'm describing is the "accumulator" then does the delete mod make the clutch feel like and perform more like my g2? If so, I needed it yesterday.....

 

2nd Gens have the accumulator also.

 

Got it, thanks for the quick reply.

Have a great Sunday evening..

 

You also!

Well, maybe except for the Avalanche.

 

Also I don't know what the friction disk is like but few points. In short without the mechanical explanation as a clutch wears it takes more pressure to disenage so the pedal stiffness could possibly be that since the second gen is older along with the clutch it could be that now in comparison to a newer vehicle it's noticeable compared to the progressive stiffening you may not notice as it wears.
Second the truck may have just been designed in such a way that equals a stiffer clutch, usually vehicles get more refined in everyway with each generation. Especially seeing how they have two completely different transmissions. 3rd it could also be the fluid is just old and thicken. Once your kid gets driving stick down I would do the delete because the accumulator is a good crutch to learn but becomes a handicap to experienced drivers

 

Most impactful mod yet for me with regard to performance. I went with the dremel method.

 

Thinking about this approach as well. How long did it take you? Any downside to this method compared to the others?

 

A smaller piston on the clutch master cylinder could result in a more firm pedal and the clutch itself would engage and disengage in a shorter stroke of the pedal.

I wonder if they are the same MC or different

 

Sorry, but that is opposite. Bigger MC pistol equals a heavier load and more travel. Think of a bottle jack as the opposite. Little piston, little effort, little travel.

 

I would estimate that it took me about an hour. The most time consuming part is getting those hidden upper bolts off. It's a tight space for larger hands. I didn't experience any downside, but I think I read at some point some folks were concerned about voiding a warranty. Since I'm in a 2.5 gen that wasn't a concern for me. I wish I would have done it sooner.

 

Debating on getting a new truck in a manual,im not crazy about tearing into a new truck,is this something that’s a must in a 23?
Biggest benefit?
Thanks

 

Yup. Same with brake master cylinders....smaller bore on the MC equals more pressure in the line, at the cost of more pedal travel. Ultimately have more power with a smaller bore. Large bore creates a super firm pedal which reduces pressure in the lines given the same pedal effort.

Conversely, at the calipers, smaller pistons firm up the pedal since the force is concentrated in a smaller area. Larger caliper pistons will increase power, decrease pedal firmness, increase pedal travel, which is why they use a large bore MC to complement large piston calipers. And then they put a large booster in front of the master to assist the driver in actuating it all.

It's similar to gear ratios. Larger bore is akin to a taller ratio, smaller bore is like a lower gear ratio. In the case of the clutch pedal, you only have one range of the pedal: from top, to bottom. With one master cylinder bore size, you will move X amount of fluid. The larger the bore, the more fluid you'll move, and that will be more difficult to move. Like taller gears.

 

Yep, thanks for the correction, I was thinking of it backwards.

 

Cheers!

It's all good.