Another Crank No Start | OBD2 No Comm + Xmas Tree Inst Panel w/Bonus ‘It hasn’t run in months’

Perfect - exactly what I needed. I know this is in the stuff I've been reviewing, but not in the a/b/c/d type order I was after.

I did watch this - it's from the link in your sig block. I even have the book that goes with it. My stumbling block is that being new to a lot of this, I'm not sure which info I'll actually use sometimes, and what can be set aside. I either wind up taking too many notes to shuffle through, or not enough, and have to watch through it again.

That was from me. It's been removed now. It's painters tape I used to label qucik/easy the order they went back in. When the panel was removed, there was a dirt and dog hair everywhere. The vacuum wansn't getting the hair in the wires so I unplugged them. I still want to hit it with the air tank.

Thanks again for the guidance I needed. I'm good to go now. Have a few things to wrap up indoors and then I'll be out there for Round 2.

 

I should mention I got the Scanner Danner book last night, but was too beat to do more than glance through it. This is a nice reference all-around.

 

If you can get a grasp of basic electrical, circuit design, can read & understand wiring diagrams, have a meter, test light, & backprobes, and can use them properly your way ahead of even alot of "techs" out there IMO.

 

Yea it's an amazing reference for those starting out in diagnostics, I learned alot from it when I was getting into diagnostics.

 

Had to come in for bug repellant, but the powers listed below all tested about the same voltage as the battery - ~ 12.5.

Using the battery ground because it's the only one I know as good right now.
KOEO - however, there was one instance, either e13/22 or e13/23 that I didn't have the key on, but it still read 12.5 on the meter, if that matters.

Powers:
E14 Pin 21 (Beige)
E13 Pin 24 (Blue)
E13 Pin 22 (Black)
E13 Pin 23 (Black)
E11 Pin 23 (Light Green)

All sprayed down and going back out. Thanks again for being patient with me

 

Checked all but the last 3 of the grounds, and will need to continue tomorrow because it is a lot easier to do this during the day. I'll log off work early to make sure I have plenty of daylight. Of course, I'm sure it will monsoon again now that I have made plans.

As for the grounds, there were 4 that I didn't get a reading on. I checked and double-checked, and even pulled out the plug to try and make sure there was contact, but I can't be 100% certain this isn't human error. I used a sewing machine needle and I also tried a backprobe. In each instance I was trying to probe at the top of the wire where I could see metal. My uncertainty comes from the power test, because there were a couple of instances where there wasn't a reading, but then I finagled it and tried it again and it was fine.

E12 Pins 10/14/15 and e11 - Pin 12 didn't get a reading, but let me try again tomorrow maybe with a different probe method to rule out i-d-10t error.

FYI - I won't deny that I'm not the quickest with all this, but please know my time outside is divided between truck, making sure the dogs don't roll in something, neighbor chat, etc. Just didn't want you to think it took me 4 hours to test 10 or so wires

Thanks so much!

 

Yea this is why I almost exclusively use a test light for power and ground testing, 1 it loads the circuit and 2 there's no guesswork. You either get a bright light or you don't.

No worries, it took me several years to get proficient at testing and I still make mistakes sometimes.

 

...so I can take the test light, clip the wire to the battery ground, touch test light to the probe in back of harness (because test light probe is prob too big) and if it lights up... success? No key on required?

 

Yes you can touch the backprobe with the test light probe but you still need the key on when testing.
When checking grounds you want your test light connected to battery positive.

I showed an example checking the pins at the EFI relay with a test light in the post below.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-not-start-solved.799571/page-6#post-28667735

 

Sweet! Great info again! I'm done with work and this holiday weekend hope to make it all about vehicles. 3 cars, 2 not running, the 3rd is feeling left out and started leaking water last night. I don't really go anywhere anymore, so not a huge issue on my end - unless there were an emergency - which is the motivator for me in this instance. Spouse is primary driver. I will leave it at that.

The link you sent above with the test light and testing the fuse ports/holes (?), would I be correct in thinking that the fuse ports would be tested to see if power is getting to it - example: you could have a good fuse, but the light tester doesn't light up when you touch the back of the fuse, so you pull the fuse and test the fuse port/hole. If the port/hole doesn't light up, then something may be wrong with the connection in between? Ruling out the key on/off variable of course. Also, the voltage could be tested at the fuse port if needed, similar to how I hopefully will be testing for the 5v here in a bit?

I disconnected the battery last night before coming in, and was going to test resistance at the DLC (OBD)? port before I plugged it back in. Someone has definitely been poking around in that area before.
I had been following the info available on the link below. The stuff crammed in between the ads is easy to understand for me.
OBD Won’t Connect To ECU - Solved - Rustyautos.com

Hopefully I will beat the rain and come back with worthy info

 

Well in that case we were checking both power and ground at the relay pins.

Again I use a test light to check fuses in circuit (touch the metal pins that stick through the fuse), you want to see the light light on both sides of the fuse. If it lights on one side but not the other then the fuse is blown, if it doesn't light on either side then there's no power reaching the fuse.

 

You can check resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the OBD port (should be 60 ohms) with the battery unhooked, that will tell you if the CAN system is intact but that's about it.

 

So the 3rd truck had a busted radiator hose which one would think is simple enough to fix (spouse was working on this one). However, today I learned about the spring type hose clamp, which - over the course of about 6 hours, handed both of our asses to us. The level of frustration is strong with this one. Tools to defeat it should be here tomorrow thanks to Amazon next day delivery.

I did manage to make progress on the Tacoma. The grounds all lit up with the test light once I used a better probe. I started on the 5v wires, but the readings were between 1v and 2v which is indicative of another iD-10T error.

I'm hoping you can check my work on the OBD port resistance as this is my first attempt with it. This was with battery disconnected, testing pins 6 and 14 per screenshot. Photo attached of multimeter setting Ohm/200, and reading either 36 or 3.6. I tried 2 multimeters - readings were the same. I mentioned before that whole OBD Port setup looks rigged, which I'll get pics of when I try the 5v again. Maybe tonight.

Thanks again.

 

Yea some of those spring clamps can be a royal pain especially where they put some of them.

Ok so our powers and grounds appear to be good.

This could be the problem, seeing 1-2v on the 5v suggests either something on the 5v circuit is shorted or the PCM is dead.

Hmm if you were on the right pins it seems the CAN system is shorted.

 

Yay!!

Would a poor connection to that pin from my end cause a low reading? I was thinking maybe the stickpin I was using didn't quite make contact, causing the low reading.

If the pinout diagram is correct, then I was on the correct ones.

 

Definitely possible, need to confirm.

You said you had a lightning storm, I'm wondering if the truck din't get hit? Have you seen any evidence of it (burn marks, etc)?

 

I can't say that I would know what to look for if it wasn't obvious. When I tried to find pics of lightning damaged vehicles, the damage was obvious (example attached). Almost like what I visualize if I touch the wrong wire with the multimeter lol. We had 2 strikes on the property. One hit a utility pole at the workshop. I'm not sure exactly sure where they other hit. The truck was about 50 ft from the utility pole. My Juke was closer and in between the truck and pole. No ground or tree damage around truck. But the shotty OBD wiring and a wire rigged at the ecm with electrical tape raises an eyebrow for me. I'm walking out now to try the 5v again and will get the pics of the OBD port and rogue wire and pin #.

I should be good enough at this now that it won't take an hour

 

So I am reporting live from the scene and just tested the first two of the 5v wires and it is looking like they are about 1.23v. Key on. Tried paper clip and clamp and also the needle probe. E11-31 has the rigged wire. However I see a few of them in different places.

 

All 5v tested at about 1.23. It would start at about 1.18 and jump to about 1.20 and then slowly crawl to about 1.23.

 

Ok so we need to start unplugging 5v sensors the see where the fault lies.

That's actually pin 30, those are factory wires. It's normal for them to look like that, they are shield wires. They are ground wires wound around certain wire bundles to help prevent interference.