For first time in my life I changed my oil and left the old filter on

Before y'all start flaming me, let me put on my flame-retardant suit...

Due to a fused neck & spine I have not changed my own oil in over two years. Since I had the day off I decided to get down there and change it myself just to visually inspect for any leaks, holes in muffler, ect.

Damn, that drain plug was on there so tight I almost gave up and got a cheater bar. Then the washer was smashed on so tight I had to pry it off with a screwdriver - and that's why you DON'T take your car to Jiffy Lube.

I put my end cap style filter wrench on, and the damn thing kept slipping because the filter was so damn tight it wouldn't budge. There's no room to "tap" the cap wrench on tighter with a hammer because you know on the 2.4 there's no damn room to do jack sh*t. So the wrench kept slipping off...

I gave up and drove away with clean oil and the old, nasty, dirty oil filter with 6,000 miles still on the truck.

A few questions:

This is the supposed "Good for 20,000 miles" Mobil-1 Extra Life filter. I'm guessing it won't hurt anything to keep the old filter on there until my next visit to J-lube. Thoughts?

I'm also using the exact same brand Castrol "High Mileage" full synthetic 10-30 as last oil change, so no change in brands. So, you think no harm no foul? What's the big deal when the Mobil-1 filter is supposedly indestructible?

 

Yeah this is where I go against everyone here....pretty much everyone...

My truck is 99% stop and go traffic....

Oil off the napa ad slicks is cheap....

their platium filters are not....but probably the best you can buy.


With all this in mind....I change the oil filter every 4th change...

but change the oil every 2K......why 2K.....cause your only changing part of it..

So I stock up and buy the filters when they have the 20 off deals.....

And end of using $10 in oil each change......that's dirt cheap insurance....

The change pan always there, and the 14mm stays on the rachet all the time...

Third of a quart of lucas for a cherry on top.......got it down to a 5 min routine after work every other month....


Most of this stuff if you dont buy from auto parts store is half....exception is the loss leaders.....

And everybody should have a bag of those blue/silver gaskets...from amozon....



Kind of oil is way down on the list....but frequency, that's no. 1...


by the way oil at 2000 looks same as 4000...not very good....so I think I getting my money's worth....


Oil pans are so easily damaged.....many horror stories there from 'in the hurry' shop mechanics.....
with a new pan being the least of your worries......its how long it ran low......and what it did....

 

As far as the oil filters.....hand tightened only...
or you'll have a devil of a time getting it off again..

Dont know about 5vz.....but the 2rzs and 3rzs.....they're like a dog tugging a pull toy.....

and you'll to resort to using one of these....

 

Nice gripping tool. I would have used that, but I can see ripping the filter, and the damn filter still being stuck on. Sort of like when guys punch a hole through the filter with a hammer and long phillips screwdriver, and the filter still will not come off.

 

Yeah, I know. But I can't do it myself, and a "REAL" auto mechanic is going to charge $120 and hour. So what else can I do?????????

 

Not gonna get any shit from me. Changing the oil is 95% of the job.

In 5k, take the thing to your regular place and make them remove it and install the new one hand tight!

 

Wrap a strip of course sandpaper around the inside of your cap socket to bite on the filter.

Find an independent shop to do your oil changes till you heal, forget JL. It's worth the extra $.

If it makes you feel better, go to the mechanic now and have him replace the filter. Top up your oil and drive. The 'dirty oil' that got mixed in from the old filter is insignificant with only 6k on it.

 

Yeah, I probably should at least call a local mechanic to see what they would charge for oil change, but I'm sure it's 2x as much as the Jiffy Boys.

As for the sandpaper, I'm laying on the ground at an awkward angle on my side, and on the 2.4 it's so tight there, even with the sandpaper the force is all going at a weird angle, and it still won't bite on the filter good enough. Thanks for the advice though

 

been here before, just a mess
Mobile 1 make good filters but they will still clog and drop oil pressure.
I remove my filter from top down on my 2.7. Have to stand on my tippy toes. lol 6'4"me
Loosen it then plastic shopping bag it up and remove. Maybe 3 drip clean up.

and it's lube 1st then hand tight and back 1/4 turn

on a side note: add a backup cam. It does wonders to know there are no children behind you.

 

Thanks. I just can't get at it from the top.

 

search for 3 leg oil filter wrench.
had to buy one to remove a filter installed by an oil changing place. I was low on time and said f-it. I couldn't get 2 hands on it from top down or bottom up.

 

I have one, but still I can't fit a damn ratchet under it, and might even puncture the filter. I just left the damn thing on until next oil change 4 months from now. There's less than half a quart of oil shit oil in the filter, anyway. And that Mobil-1 filter is not going to clog up in 10,000 miles, no way

 

I use rubber strap wrenches on all kinds of canister filters. It could be another option. If it doesn't work it's not going to cause damage to the filter like a jaw style or the screwdriver trick.

 

Better get to training, you only have 4,000 miles left

 

THis tool will get it off......I had to take off the passenger wheel in past to get good leverage on it...

The filter is not recessed in anything....in fact the canister hangs off the side of the block......its just a tight working area...
even if the outer can comes off......you can still get some channel locks on the core if needed...

This is one of the problems having others do the simple things for you...others integrity and competence in question these days....


everybody sells those pliers......harbor freight, walmart, ...ect....
$8

 

3rd gen owner watching in amusement

Pretty common for the drain plug to need a cheater bar to remove, even though you didn't use one to install. Not sure why. I just use a 17" flex head ratchet to loosen.

The Toyota laminated gasket always sticks to the pan. In the future use Dorman copper drain plug gaskets P/N 65271 (2-pack). These don't stick. It's available at most auto parts stores.

When a filter's element is clogged with contaminants, the filter's bypass valve opens more often, letting more oil through unfiltered. No way to know how much life is remaining in your filter without putting it on specialized test equipment.

 

Yeah taking the passenger wheel off is easiest way....filter removal 2rz/3rz....
.....its those damn break lines that are in the way.....

I've never had a problem with those blue/silver gaskets....but its also crazy to cinch down super hard on that plug.....completely unnecessary....

Seasoned toyota mechanics will tell you to hand tighten the filter....do not use wrench...
5 years of doing this and never leaked....

And I get it.....some old cars and trucks the filter can back off.....but never seen or heard of it on a toyota....

 

Maybe someone around you can help you out if you ask
I would if I was nearby

 

Yep. @1996_2.4 post your city/state and you might find a helpful TW member