El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

Definately not perfect... but a notable improvement.

 

Think my last visit consisted of 3 "almost" incidents as noted below

 

Was just keeping ya on your toes bro.

Gotta be agile.

 

Plug in 1st Gen Tacoma?

Yes


Driver side (starting battery)


Passenger side (aux battery)



Was going to make fancy brackets to hold them... but... nah, they'll ride there just fine. And I have way too much other shit to get done.

The float chargers will be a good investment now that the truck isn't a daily anymore.

 

what material did you use for the slide bar? 4340?

 

I honestly don't know. I just asked for 1 inch O.D. and 1/8 wall. (for that stick). And all the tube I buy is DOM.

Had I been thinking, I would have specified 4340. But I didn't. lol

 

I'm curious to see how mild (my assumption for what it is) holds up... I'm sure it adds strength anyhow, and looks easy to replace in this design

 

Would be super easy to replace.

Even being mild steel, the bronze bushings it passes through are still softer. And I designed those to be easily replaced as well. They are slight interference fit held in with set screws.

There shouldn't be a lot of wear though, with the slider bar mainly only moving side to side through the bushings. If I take hits, that would possibly cause a front to back /up to down load on the bushings, which would cause wear.

 

@cbechtold or @Robmonster117

Curious... when you installed the TC LBJs, where they hella stiff? I mean HELLA stiff.

 

@chrslefty ran into that with his

 

Ok... Just making sure I hadn't fucked something up.

They were REEEEEALY stiff BEFORE the rack saver, so I know it wasn't that. I just forgot to ask when I installed them.

I torqued them to TC spec... but holy shit they are stiff. Like stiff enough to make steering noticeably stiffer (on jack stands with no wheels)

I guess they'll work themselves in.

 

Are you going to make a boot for the rack saver?

 

I'm looking at it, to try and figure one out.

 

I'm thinking, I may be able to cut the old rack boots in a way I can use them. Haven't gotten that far with it.

Definately want to keep shit out of there. The teeth will pull shit straight in to the rack.

 

I would cut a hole in the OEM boot to pass the bolt through that connects to the rack saver. And then just bolt the rubber between the two.

 

Mine was pretty stiff off the rip. Figured it'll take some time for them to break in.

 

So mine are at 600 miles ish and are still pretty stiff. I just got done washing the truck and re lubing all the ball jts and its starting to feel a little bit better. My suggestion is hit em with the tri lub. Let them soak and the do it again a couple of time . Also go beat on them off road,did help help a lot. Just be careful driving on the freeway. Where ever I look that's were the truck want to go and be really gentle on the steering corrections.

 

Updating the list and adding

Re-do my front Lower shock mounts DONE
Replace speedometer sensor (so I actually have a speedo again) DONE
Replace motor mounts with solid (poly) mounts. DONE
Total Chaos Lower Ball joints DONE
Fabricate new steering, replacing the inner and outer tie rods with Clevis and Heims. DONE
Fabricate and install steering rack slider. DONE
Finish shore power (charger mounts) DONE
Fix running lights in grill and trans cooler fan (same circuit) DONE
Remove broken skid bolts, chase threads DONE
Clean up garage so you stop tripping on shit and almost dying... DONE

Fix windshield washer fluid res or pump
Replace fuse for Passenger side compressor
Install proportioning valve to delete LSPV
Install new Superbumps (rear)
Replace 1.25 spacers with 3/4 spacers (front)
Re-install skids.
Remove everything from cab and boxes, clean and repack for new season.
Re-do shifter for front transfer case.
Make boots for steering rack.
Fabricate and install partitions in the tool boxes.
Install cooling fans on compressors.

I'm sure, while working on this, I'll add more to the list.

Replace door handles... DONE ✔️

 

Started working on the LSPV delete.



I just plugged the return with a bleeder screw.

And used a union to join the pressure line with the line that runs to the rear brake T while I figured out what else I need to do.



I needed to get the area, circled in red, clear so I can mount the hydrobumps. So I ran relocated the brakes for the hardline/softline connection to the middle of the truck.



I'll also be running an extension from the hardline T on the driver side up to the top of the diff... the new rear axle will also have the hardline T centered at the top of the diff (when it's done).

Hacked off the stock bump pads. They were deformed and not really functioning well anymore anyway.



Moving the proportion valve and the brake line bracket gave me space to mount the bases for the hydrobumps.

 

Got the bump brackets burned together last night. We'll see how well this starts coming together this evening.


Still need to finish up the rest of the lines in the back and mount the manual proportioning valve next to the Master Cylinder.

Once I get the bumps in, I'll be able to get all the measurements to send to @Kwikvette so he can cut the pieces I'll need to build the strike pads, that will mount on the axle.