TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

More everything Hahaha. But still reliable daily driver.

 

I never jumped on the Ripps, was sceptical. I had my own fiasco with a clutchmasters hydraulic throw out bearing that gave me some skepticism with new, untested goodies.

 

Take no offense please but how is the budget? You can get away with a good solid reliable build with some forged rods, pistons, head studs and mls gasket and will be very budget friendly. If you wanna really go into it, not trying to dissuade you, then yes get the stroker, better valve springs, larger inconel valves, etc but it'll be way more. To give an idea on my rb26, just in machine shop labor I'm into it 10k and another 10-15k in parts. Will probably be another 5 just for tuning. The drifter implementing a 1gr twin turbo in a brz/frs has been good and I'm not sure if he has a stroker or not.

 

This is why I have stayed in denso coils however I would entertain the idea of running vr38 coils. Would need to figure out the pins and harness as well as fitment.

 

my response to your question below.

I am 100% convinced that people need to stay away from them due to how they are failing. If there is more than two people who things are failing for and in the same fashion, it's a problem. The tightness or tension of how things are fitting is not really nor was ever something that concerned me. I actually trimmed my boots down at the time of initial install so I wouldn't have to be jamming things up in there and the fitment was better.

The way this ignition stuff works the internal spring just needs to be able to touch the top of the spark plugs to be able to transfer it's energy to it.

Upon pulling the coils and inspecting them, they are actually very clean at the boot tips and springs, there was no evidence of arcing, burn out, or damage of any kind. The average person would dismiss the coils and move on to the next item based on a visual inspection alone.

I can get behind the more everything mentality. What I cannot get behind is titanium valves. As cool as they sound and as advantageous the benefits of higher revving due to how light they are they are, they also are not designed to last longer than 100K due to the material that they are. They are racecar parts and these are not racecar motors. When I say that I mean that these motors are not very easy to take apart and the heads are not easy to remove. Knocking down heads just to check on valves and ultimately replacing them is the last thing anyone wants to deal with.

My advice? Forged internals, sleeved, bored over, with FIC injectors, and Kelford cams is never a wrong move when done right. If you want a reliable daily which is also bulletproof, stay away from the racecar stuff. You don't want to deal with the same sort of issues that the C6 Z06 Corvette had with their LS7 (dropping valves left and right which was causing total engine failure due to their use of titanium valves).

I can't say I blame you, but it was a mod worth exploring since I am an equal opportunity modder when it comes to experimenting, especially when I don't even have to remove the blower or anything to access the parts I need to replace to do the mods.

If you want to make an omelette you gotta break a few eggs!

 

x2. I prefer not to be an early adopter with most things.

 

I'm usually the test dummy for the majority of these things, but I have no problem in doing so, because it's fun, usually not super expensive and at worst I can always revert back to stock parts if need be.

 

Thanks, this is exactly the type of feedback I'm looking for.

Also, I think we've all broken a few eggs on our modding journeys.

 

We all definitely have. Big truth there. I'm not sure where I stand right now on leaving or removing rip coils as a recommendation on page one maybe I can just leave it up with a disclaimer for those thinking about buying them and if there is one more failure of the same kind then removing it off the list entirely. Maybe that would be a fair route to go.

As far as your engine build is concerned I was never highly knowledgeable on the type of material that is the most ideal for something like you're trying to accomplish. I was always an oem guy when I was still in the field because that was all I ever wrenched on. Materials like Inconcel like you guys are describing is outside of my scope of immediate knowledge without looking into it, but given that Tor and Lucario have some experience running this stuff or at least being around that stuff I would lean into them on whether or not it's worthy for a bulletproof all out, yet reliable build.

 

Also would be handy to have a spare long block Incase anything happens when going this route.

Just have a disclaimer about carrying a spare coil or two.

 

I would actually run the disclaimer to carry all of them because it started as code P0351 but as soon as the engine cooled down all but number 5 failed and threw their respective P035x codes according to their cylinder causing a no start condition. So I would almost feel comfortable say to keep the entire box of OE coils in the backseat beneath the seats just in case it strands you.

 

I've snapped two different URD Pulley Puller thread screws. The ones that screw into the shaft. Broken two of those on two different s/c's. Luckily I only had to rethread one of the shafts and was able to back the other out.

 

A few of us have had to outright cut/mangle SC pulleys trying to remove them. The aftermarket ones before everyone started running the quick change hubs.

Glad I never broke the one you did though.

 

@TodayWasTHeDaY The stock block can be bored out +1mm. Like @Lucario Runner said a mild build can be done pretty easy and at a better cost. Forged pistons, rods, upgraded head studs, main studs. I sent my bearings out to have a poly coating to help with friction and oil retention. All the head gaskets I found were mls design, including the oem. @Torspd said there is a place to send the stock rod to be shot peened and cryo treated that will increase strength. Your Budget is your friend and enemy. lol! Port and polish would be good addition. The bottleneck in the supercharger intake would be a good improvement. even it is a small increase in flow. (not sure how much can be done there)

 

This will probably be a long drawn out build so I'm not concerned with cost so much and it's a spare block so my truck is totally driveable until the time I'm ready to swap. Never done something like this before so I'm excited to learn.

 

I think you'll enjoy it. I did, but i was getting anxious with supply delays and my daily being down.

 

That's like a million Canuck bucks hahaha

No offense taken at all

 

Yeah its worth it to have multiple vehicles. Plus it's funny to troll the parking garage guards when you roll up in something different.

 

Fr? What does 2 million Canuck bucks buy?

 

Cannuck bucks?! Are those redeemable here stateside? Or are they more like Caesars Rewards or Disney bucks?