About to give up.....

I'm a white guy but speak like 95% Spanish, so I understood the video. The bolt you referenced in that video is good information! I like that it's a Toyota bolt, and the original nut works, no need to buy a nut. Wish I saw this sooner, and I'll be buying a set of those bolts to test for myself. Thank you.

 

Hell yeah dude! Let me know if any translation is needed. Replaced that bolt and retorqued everything and a bunch of clank went away

 

So what's the difference in the bolt other than it being slightly shorter? I've had this "click" in my front suspension for the past like 9 years and multiple suspension shops have said everything is tight...

 

If you press the brakes lightly and it doesnt make any noise look at your front brakes...try hitting on the caliper with a rubber hammer(or your hand) to duplicate the noise.could just be the pads rattling

 

I am going to install some of those bolts to see if my clunk goes away. The difference I can see is the shoulder thickness near the threads. The Taco bolt appears to taper/reduce in diameter before the threads whereas the replacement bolt shoulder is uniform all the way to the threads. The LCA only contacts the bolt at the head and near the threads. So, the Taco bolt fits snug in the LCA at the head but has excessive movement near the threads. The replacement bolt should have a snug fit at the head AND near the threads.

 

Yup, all have minimal play

 

Ya all stock. I considered poly, but with research and 90% on road driving, I sorta figured I didn't need them

 

True, all of the suspension components were replaced in the passed year. Body mount bushings were surprisingly fine, little play when I gave it a pry bar wiggle. Even the radiator support bushings were in decent shape when I replaced them. I'll give it a run through again today. Going to take the front end apart a bit. Focus on the braking system a little, etc etc

 

This ^^

The next time you're heading toward a bump and expecting a clank, gently hold the brakes as you go over the bump. If the noise goes away the problem is brake related like pads shifting in calipers.

Also what about the inner bushings that attach the sway bar to the frame? They can get hard and allow the bar to thump around right on the frame. I've found them by disconnecting the end-links and shaking the sway bar up and down.

But like you said, if the noise sounded like a loose LCA cam bolt then you may still have a loose one. Like it never got torqued properly, rusted frozen and then now it's still loose even though it seems tight when checked with a torque wrench. These cams need to be 100 lb/ft and it's easy to come up short if you're just tightening by hand with a big wrench.

 

The Tacoma comes with one caliper support spring per caliper. You can install 2 per caliper(top and bottom). This eliminates the brake pad clack heard when going from drive to reverse while using brakes. Bumps can make the sound too. Worth a shot.

 

I over torqued all of the lca bolts to 130ft pounds, all of them spun a bit when tightening as well. I'm diving into this tomorrow. Helped another member today by taking out some axles so I didn't have time.

 

Definitely! Anything to eliminate at least one sound

 

If LCA bushings (the larger one of the two) were replaced with Moog or other cheap bushings, they tend to spin in place and make a ruckus. The quick fix is to tack weld them in place.

 

Replaced the entire LCA with Beck arnley about 10k miles ago

 

But they clanked right away, just like the oem ones

 

If you are able to attach a camera down there, you may be able to spot the source.

Here is why Moog bushings, and others, in LCA cause noises. The one on the left is a Moog. The other two are Mevotech; one must be a new design as they came in different size boxes. Point is, notice the small surface contact area of the Moogs, barely half an inch. I barely recall the oem surface, I believe it was at least an inch.

 

I'll see if I can steal one of my dad's go pros. I've always wanted to see this