Turbo BS Thread

Yea yea...I know. It's in the shelf

 

You got the

$142 Aeromotive 11542 340 Series Stealth Intank Fuel Pump, High Horsepower, 12V Electric, EFI and Carbureted Engines, Gas or E85 Fuel Type, Inline Inlet

Aeromotive 11542 fuel pump on the shelf with a new fuel pump gasket too right haha

 

I remember changing the one on my 81 pu. Probably for the first it ever had been... was brown mud inside.... don't even know how it ran after seeing that

 

Haha no.... but likely will here soon. Have a 1/4 tank right now too... so probably good time to hit order.

 

+ 5 hp...

 

Only +5hp if you gimme a sticker haha

 

The pumps not a direct fit but it's pretty easy to get it on. Just a couple wires and cutting the metal fuel line on the hanger assembly about half an inch shorter to accommodate the slightly taller pump.

 

Wires need soldered in?

 

Stickers always add some hp!....I want one too!

 

I did but I like soldering

 

Yea, was just curious. I don't have a solder gun handy currently

 

Dm me your mailing address and I'll see if I have a decent pair laying around that wanna go on a trip lol

 

Welp.. found my leaking issues. Front middle and corner (passenger side) pan bolts were loose, and I believe to be stripped out...

https://youtu.be/3gIjxwT5mlU

You can see it starting to leak not in boost, but around 1:15 when I hit boost it really starts flowing.

M6 1.0 x 10 mm I believe, going to go and see if Lowes has some to see if I can get them at least tightened up and seal. However, being the FIPG, I think that its already cured and oil is getting past, tightening up will only slow the leak at best and not completely seal back up? Likely going to have to drop it again to get a proper seal. Thoughts?

 

Either you’re getting some blowby, just the RPMs are flinging oil all around the crankcase, or possibly some backfeed from valve cover if not routed to a catch can.

I have memories of dropping my oil pan on my 3rz and not removing the diff. This was maybe 8-10 years ago but I’d be lying if I was certain because I did drop the diff for a locker around those years. My pan leaks fairly good but not enough to warrant adding oil running 5-6k miles change intervals.

There are gaskets available if you wanted to try snaking one in there or even cutting it and putting a bandaid skeet of gasket material on the cut.

 

Vent and PCV are routed to catch can. I would be surprised if it is caused by blow by, but it is a possibility. Those bolts were pretty much just sitting there, so any pressure probably caused the gasket to crack and start leaking.

Was able to get a new bolt in the middle and torqued down, the corner one is stripped on the block but was able to get a long enough bolt to get a nut on the top and torqued down now as well. Coated them all pretty good with FIPG to see if it helps. Letting that all sit tonight and then will run it again tomorrow to see if I managed to lessen the leakage at all, but I won't be able to run it like that for long knowing myself. I will be pulling it back apart and re-sealing it for good in the near future. Unfortunately, the pan on the 5vz is not able to be dropped without out front diff removal so there will be no way around that.

 

I'll keep my fingers (not threads) crossed for you. Guess I wasn't too far off when I asked about torquing the bolts.

 

Post some good photos of vacuum hose routings please.

 

FPR T'd with BOV into original PCV port



Heat wraped lines are coolant. My hand is holding the T for the PCV and rear vent that then goes to catch can image further below



Lumed one under ignitor is the rear vent, clamped one on top the manifold is my boost reference to gauge in side:



Opposite side shot of the rear vent under ignitor




PCV/Vent T



Catch

 

Where does this go?

 

I only see one line going to the catch can, so that must be what the Tee is for in the earlier photo. That Tee, would perform much better being a Y. If you can get your hands on one.

Basically, I am trying to figure out and make sure that you have no vacuum hoses connecting the intake manifold to the valve cover. If you do, that will create a lot of problems from being able to pressurize the crank case.