Pigtail Connector Help

Your yellow arrow, what’s it pointing to? Is it pointing where the little black wire goes to inside the fuse box? Can you post a picture of your stock battery wiring?

 

I still don’t understand why the body of the alternator and the positive wire beep with a continuity test

 

It's pointing at the bolt below that fuse where the ring terminal of the wire bolts to the fuse box, you have to partially disassemble the fuse box to access it.
I can try to get a better pic of it tomorrow if it's visible.

 

And the black wire that’s coming out of the side of the fuse block is secured to that bolt?


This is the thread I was looking at. Maybe I misinterpreted it.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-2nd-gen-tacoma-writeup-with-pictures.664674/

 

Did you have your meter leads the right way? Remember power can flow through the alternator diode in one direction.

Best I can make out what he did he didn't do it correctly so it would maintain the factory alternator fuse, he essentially bypassed the alternator fuse.

 

I guess I don’t understand, but even if they weren’t the right way why would I have continuity still?

 

I don't know, it could be finding a path though anything that's connected even without a short to ground.
A light bulb will read continuity but isn't a short.
Sure you could have a short but that's something you have to find out.
If you want to be safe get you a fuse holder and a 10 amp fuse and put that between the battery and truck terminals first so if you have a direct short somewhere the fuse will pop instead of wires going up in smoke.

 

Fuck. This is annoying. I want to start the truck tomorrow. I don’t know where I’d even have a short. Nothings plugged into the motor. I’ll try rewiring it tomorrow. What’s the best way to swap out that wire for the thicker gauge from the alternator fuse?

and which way is the correct way for my leads to be to test this?

 

Wow. Hats off to you @Dm93
An engine swap with a 3rd party controller.
And you’re doing this all over the forum without laying eyes on the project.
Talk about hard, I wouldn’t attempt that build myself. Let alone try to help build one over an internet forum.

Best of luck to you OP.
Hopefully you get it figured out.

 

He’s the goat. Wouldn’t be doable without him.

 

Arrow is indicating bolt that secures fuse to buss bar.

 

So the thick blue with black wire should attach where that red arrow is?

 

Okay, the only wire I have hooked up is the thick red one from the alternator post to the post inside the fuse box. The black wire(highlighted purple) has continuity with the body of the alternator/engine block. Surely that’s not a ground? When I wire that black wire directly to the alternator like a previous post suggests, the alternator post and body are a dead short, even with the red cable disconnected.

 

All my fuses in that box have continuity with ground as well…

am I tripping or is everything acting as it should?

 

Worlds biggest dumbass. Had the keys in the ignition for the steering lock…

 

LMAO could you tell me what wires I need to cut to turn off my CEL, 4LO, and 4WD light?

But the truck started and ran beautifully, Tachometer works, everything works as its supposed to thanks to you guys.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkkHxLEPA90

 

If your not using the stock PCM or 4wd ECU just unplug them and the lights will be out.

 

Will the spedometer and tach and all that work without the PCM? or ignition for that matter

 

I thought you were running all the engine stuff off the Holley ECU, spedometer goes to the cluster first anyway.
Unplug it and see what happens, if you need it plugged in I'll look up the wire for the CEL.