New England B.S. Thread

All depends what you want, but if you have the luxury of time (which it sounds like) piece it together and get what you really want in the first place.

My Schwinn by luck came complete with almost all original parts (as my new one had back in 1986), despite it having been neglected badly. It took some basics to get it rideable for the summer and in the winter I tore it down and restored it. I did buy new wheels, because the originals were date stamped and uncommon because they were prone to breaking early on. If I show the bike or ever sold it I have the original wheels which adds value.

Other hand I got my Hutch as a frame/fork. Had some parts kicking around but had to chase others..some new, some old. That was a winter project thing..the wheels were out of stock for months so I just kept calling until they were in.

 

CX-5 is a good car. We're on our second.

 

Solid car.

 

Your rear end or the trucks?

 

For those following along with the bike talk and might want a new VERY basic bike (good for bike paths or campgrounds) here is a good option for a great price for you guys.

https://www.publiclands.com/p/gt-ad...267B9929E2905981ABD7090B70578D4D55810B06747A0

 

I've been debating on selling my bike and getting something a little cheaper. Just haven't had time to ride and being the sole income of the house basically I can't afford to break any bones

 

Anyone rooting for Eichel? I work with his mom so VGK i guess is my default for these finals

 

My daughter bought a 2020 CX5. She'll pick it up tomorrow as there wasn't anyone at the dealer who could issue the TX temporary plates.

 

Not sure if it was the exact same one but it was on sale for 299 at Dicks

 

Damn. Why'd you post this? I'll be thinking about it all day now. My 26" 2014 Aggressor 1.0 has been a solid bike.

 

At $400, it's OK, doesn't seem like any smoking deal. Still a 3x drivetrain, cable brakes, very low end fork. It's nothing to write home about in my opinion. For that kind of money, I'd check out Bikesonline and look at the low end Polygons. You can get a 2x Shimano drivetrain and hydraulic brakes for similar money.

 

I'll check it out. I was on my way into work when I saw the post. I haven't really been comparing prices lately. When I bought my current bicycle, the 3.0 version had department store level components where as the 1.0 was supposed to have better stuff (for an entry level bike). I don't know if GT is still doing the numbering scheme. I don't know where the "Pro" stands since just about everything has a "Pro" label on it these days.

 

Publiclands is owned by Dicks

There's an even better deal. Hold on I'll find it.

 

This one is better than half off!

Like Mike said not in the realm that I'd want but if you want just the most basic bike these aren't half bad.

 

In my experience the difference in 27.5 to 29 has been negligible in feel on the ground.

The difference from 26 to 27.5 was night and day. Might have had more to do with geometry than wheel size, but it was significant.

 

My weekend ended on a low note - fortunately only a few miles from home though and a couple of local guys were kind enough to tow my disabled rig back to my driveway for me after helping me with some quick troubleshooting in the parking lot.

Driving home from Burlington I started to feel some light hesitation/bucking while under steady throttle just as we were getting near the village center back home. I was planning to stop for gas anyway (the low fuel warning lamp had just come on), so hoping that maybe there was some contamination in the fuel tank I filled up thinking that it might dilute whatever it was and let me keep going without a problem. Nope, that wasn't it, now the truck cranks but won't start. I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump, I unplugged the accelerator pedal and the throttle position sensor and gave it a couple of cranks, those immediately set CEL codes that weren't there previously, so I think I've ruled them out. I'm probably gonna give a local garage a ring and have them come tow it, diagnose and fix it for me (I could do it, but don't particularly feel like draining ~18 gallons of fuel and dropping the tank myself) unless somebody has a quick test or two I can try myself without a fuel pressure tester. Unless somebody knows differently I don't think the kit from Autozone/O'Riley's/NAPA has the right fittings to put the gauge inline with the fuel system so I wouldn't get a true reading by dead-heading the system on the gauge, though it would tell me if the pump has completely failed. I think my UltraGauge has a fuel pressure gauge, I'll have to dig it up and throw it on the truck - can anyone tell me what fuel pressure I should see when cranking the engine over?

 

Caught a nice Fluke (AKA Summer Flounder) this morning. 23” long.

 

Not sure on the 1gr but for my 2TR Alldata says it should be between 40.8 and 41.7psi. (I have an Alldata DIY subscription for my specific truck)
Too bad you weren't still in Central MA, I have a fuel pressure Guage with the proper fittings and my scan tool can cycle the fuel pump on and off

 

Opps. Just got off a 12hr shift.

Here it is

https://www.publiclands.com/p/gt-me...ike-18gtxmvlnch29nrxxprf/18gtxmvlnch29nrxxprf