Permanently Disable Pre-Collision (and DRCC)

Does anyone have a link to the calibration procedure Toyota uses to recalibrate distance? I assume this uses techstream?

 

Could you elaborate? Are you saying there's a correlation between PCS state and engine power output?

 

Honestly, there is not much to add to this other than for you to go out on some lose dirt and experience (the correlations) what happens when you disable PCS via the steering wheel menu along with selecting TRAC off compared to leaving PCS enabled and selecting TRAC off. (Hope it makes sense, it’s early in the mo’ning!)

 

I woke up some after a lil’

Yes, in my Tacoma, full engine output was dependent on PCS being ON. Why that is, I don’t have the slightest clue as it’s counterproductive in turning PCS OFF at the steering wheel before wheeling if you’re going to depend on full engine output.

It reminds me of a video of a Tacoma owner who was trying to get up a snowy trail with others. The fella commenting at one point said she had TRAC OFF but that she said it was still interfering with engine output and traction. She was full beans at that point. I was full beans too the other day when the tires hit loose rock and the engine hit the rev limiter. Engine output dropped a good amount. I had turned the PCS OFF and TRAC OFF before the climb. What’s interesting is I’ve climbed the same steep hill in ALSD 4x4 mode, and in control by not giving her the beans so that the ALSD can do her thing. There is always little to no interference in engine output. I believe the PCS/TRAC kicks in heavily (when PCS is turned off at the steering wheel) when WOT is given and TRAC is not 100% OFF.

But as mentioned before, put yourself through the different paces/difficulties(up to a point of course). Only way you can set yourself up for the obstacle(s) at hand in the near future.

What to expect. If you turn off TRAC 100%, you’ll know by the sound of the engine and the tire output. On my end, TRAC OFF, with the locker engaged, on gravel and 2WD, I get the fun slide to the left/right and the engine whirls. With TRAC ON, either a reduction in rpm’s will occur dependent on throttle placement, or the rear end hop, indicating brake actuation.

Hope this is helpful.

 

I didn’t catch this post if yours. If your sensors are not working, I have no clue whether the PCS/TRAC would still sense and decrease output.

 

Lots of good discussion about all the interactions and effects for off road performance.
I'm not trying to hijack the thread about how to "disable PCS" however what I really want to know is if it's possible to either remove the radar sensor completely without it reducing engine power or causing perpetual "see your dealer messages" or whether it's possible to relocate it to some random underhood location (to avoid sensor completely missing malfunction errors) and then just recalibrate the nominal distance so it doesn't throw an error while it's looking at the underside of my hood..
Ultimately, I may just leave sensor connected and mounted somewhere under the hood and unsolder the LD8028 (pcs off) led from the gauge cluster.
All this nanny stuff makes me want to put a standalone ecu on the thing to eliminate the factory ecu. 2gr-fks isn't much different from the 2gr-fe aside from the direct injection aspect so it's pretty close to what's been done with standalone on the prior gen engine in the mr2 crowd.
Fight the power, because you can.

 

PCS and TRAC are two independently operated functions. Are you confusing VSC? I’ve had my PCS off and remember through Techstream for years now and off road the piss out of my truck with no issues. Even when I had PSC on, it never false negatived while off roading. It’s off because it false negatives while in high speed turns with cars around me and slams on the brakes.

 

It is what it was. Trust me, I’m confused as heck what happened that day. I believe the video is still in the trash, but it can be recovered. I distinctly heard the rpm limiter go off when I floored it on top of big rocks, power reduced. Both the TRAC AND VSC icons were lit before the uphill climb.

 

Interesting. Are you able to replicate the issue?

 

No, I have not tried it. But damn, bewildered at the top of the climb I was. And turning PCS back ON is what did the trick for full output when I climbed back down and tried it again.

The motor did sound wicked when the limiter hit in 4LO S1. Kinda like a Le Mans style WOT and suddenly stopping for the next corner and the sweet sound of the downshifting pist off crackle sounds.

 

Interesting, I came across this thread because I have a 2019 4x4 Tacoma Sport with pre collision warning system & dynamic cruise control. When I’m off-roading in the sand dunes, with all Nannie’s off/disabled, in 2WD I can bang off the limiter repeatedly to keep the wheel speed going… but, as soon as I put it in 4WD, when I hit the rev limiter, the computer cuts my engine RPMs and drops me to 3000rpm which is completely out of the powerband. When duning this engine cut off almost put me in a really bad spot but I was able to turn back down before getting stuck. I am trying to find a way to be able to bang off the limiter in 4x4, so far it won’t let me even with all the Nannie’s are off. SOOO ANNOYINGGG. Anyone got ideas/solutions? From what I’m reading, am I get power cut because I have the pre collision/dynamic cruise control systems???

 

I’ll have to try that in 2WD also to see if that happens. Oddly enough, I have had the PCS turn off while off-roading on its own. The times it has happened has been on KMET rockers (for you oldie Southern Cal boys that were into motocross) aka wooop de dos.

Best thing to do is to go out and “play” with the controls. For my 2018 SR5 4x4, I have to keep PCS on to get full out put.

 

I’m really hoping I don’t have to keep the PCS on, I can’t imagine that system liking me when I’m coming up to a steep sand dune with wheel speed of 40mph. I’m imagining its thinking I’m about to hit a wall. Unfortunately the desert season is over until October so won’t be able to experiment more. I’ve never experience power cut on the Woops, my stock suspension would bust so I never rip through them. It’s bad enough I bottom out on g-outs while duning, hitting Woops with speed would bust my steering tie rods. My buddy who has an OffRoad literally broke the bottom neck of his shock just above where it mounts to the lower arm while following me, so I know I’m very near the limit to stock hardware.

 

Take it to a place you won’t get stuck, where there is plenty of loose traction, and play with the controls. Find what works for you, and then apply in October with adrenaline

 

Following.

 

LOL

You would be following this thread.

 

agreed, and no light on the dash either.

 

Not another Techstream setting that I am aware of. And the instrument cluster lighting is dedicated LEDs on a circuit board, though they certainly can be destroyed or de-soldered. I had mine apart, but I do not have a picture to share.

 

Who has had this TSB, how effective is it?
I'm looking forward to having it done, I'd like to know what else I can get turned off.

 

I need this too