LS Swapping a Tacoma - Chasing 100mph

Too little too late haha. I have all the seals, everything cleaned up and ready to go. I am just waiting for the cam kit which won't be here for a few more weeks. Then I can get the engine slapped back together and have the machine shop finish the heads. I e still got plenty of other parts to amass in the mean time, so it's forcing me to spread it out a bit, my wallet is thankful. I know that if all the parts could go in now I would order them all NOW.

 

That is the fun part. What cam did you go with?

 

You gonna at least toss some bearings in the bottom end, or check the ones you got with some plastigauge?

 

Loose Lucy!

 

It's a comp cams thumper, 218/229 with .541 lift. LSA of 111. Nothing too extreme but more than just a mild cam too.

No I think it is in fin shape as is for now. The motor was clean inside, no evidence of shavings in the pan, and I don't believe the motor had an extreme amount of miles on it. Sure it would've been nice to pull it apart but I know that I would then be adding pistons and arms and maybe more. I didn't feel it was necessary at this point.

 

cool, people on the tuning forum have all kinds of issues getting these things started on holley with big cams. Confuses the shit out of the sensors. Seems like a stage 2 ish with spring kits are the way to go on a street vehicle.

 

I will try to work with the Tahoe ECU that came with the LS, so I'm thinking it should communicate fine. I don't know what the stages mean, how many there are lol it's a wierd terminology to me.

 

So my kit was backordered until July. Noticed the parts were available individually from summit... So should be here Friday valve stem seals may be a bit slower as they come direct from comp cams, but I can at least get cracking on things this weekend.

 

Kinda like clutches.

Basically stage 1 is a small step up from a truck cam. Kind of similar to a true ls cam from an ls6 or whatever. The stage 2 is what you have and you can run stock springs w most of them. Stage 3 you need springs, retainers, the whole bit. They start to idle a little shitty with a big lope and make mad power. From there you get into big lift with lots of overlap that are for drag applications for the most part and sound like they are about to stall every time the motor rotates.

 

So what is a stage 3 Subaru haha your definition makes sense. Technically the cam doesn't require springs, but I figure doing them won't hurt and should net a few more RPMs out of the motor. As far as the idle, some stuff I've watched showed that you can still manage a pretty lopy idle with the tune.

 

lol. Japanese cars don't need cams like american bullshit. Vtec or vvti eliminates the need w multiple lobes.

I like a nice smooth idle.

Put those oil bypass barbells in and the plug if you are using the stock pan.

What mm throttle body are you using?

 

Barbell will go in soon. Want the cam in before I close up the rear cover, and the engine stand is in the way so a bit of a pain in the ass to do. Which other plug are you referring to?

Currently just the stock truck intake. Idk if that will even work with the hood so may go something different sooner than later, but for now, whatever the stock intake size is. I'm trying to do some upgrades but there's also the philosophy of "don't get it right, get it running".

And I want it to chop and piss off old people on their way home from church

 

Little plug that can be bought w barbell. Goes in right at filter housing on pan.

mount that fucker as high as you can before it hits trans tunnel. you will thank yourself later when trying to get 6" up on sas.

Fuck the hood, take it off, get running then worry about intake.

 

I searched summit for that fucker with the barbell and came up empty. In my defense I did say in the first post I don't know what I'm doing.

 

I used this combo and its been money.

$18 BLACKHORSE-RACING LS Billet Aluminum Oil Diverter Barbell & Oil Valve Plug & Oil Pickup Tube Hold Down Kit Compatible with GM Gen III & IV LS Engines

https://www.amazon.com/BLACKHORSE-R...686101505&sprefix=ls+oil+bypas,aps,291&sr=8-3

 

Gen IV LS engines have better non-resonant style knock sensors that can be used. But Gen III used resonant ones and as soon as you introduce forced induction/power adders they cannot cope and end up false tripping. You can convert to the non resonant style pickups but not with that old stock ECU you're using, that would have to be with a Holley or newer ECU. Most racing folks delete them, they're hard to dial in appropriately without steady state dyno tuning and often present issues when racing anyway. They're not a tuning tool, they're a conditional safety device.

Also the 3.4 ping problem goes away when you get rid of the stock computer

 

The knock sensors in genIV are located on the side of the block, not the valley cover so retrofitting them would be a major undertaking and involve the machine shop.

 

They're just through bolted with an M8 bolt, I'm sure there's an open boss somewhere near the top of the block on the side, but like I said, you don't need them anyway.

 

Well I have the parts and harness already so we are going to see what happens. My thinking is, it may be just fine. And if it's not i can tune them out if they are interfering.

 

Yep, well said. My failing power steering pump was spiking them all over the place. I would try 4th gen but I think they are 2 wire and I have a harness for 1 wire. Japanese tuners will tell you 100% you need them, ls tuners are like "what are those?"