Long Travel BS Thread

Boneriffic

 

Nice, what length coilover and lower link?

 

Would it be possible to get link for sliding shaft and brass bushing?

 

The sliding shaft is just a 1 inch O.D. .120 wall DOM tubing. That gives you just shy of 3/4 I.D. so you can drill it with an 11/16 bit and then tap it for a 3/4 - 16 bolt on either end.

Grainger has the bronze bushings. It was 1 inch I.D. by 1 1/4 O.D.

I polished all the scale off the DOM tube, and honed out the Bronze bushing to make it a sliding low interference fit.

 

Thank you so much for this!!

 

I mean zero offense, but 1” DOM isn’t gonna be up to that task. Should be a solid ground and polished hardened shaft.

 

LMFAO.

It's a guide dude. What task, exactly, does it need to be up too? It's above and beyond what is already there.

You can set damn near the weight of the truck on 1 inch .120 wall DOM... and the length we are talking at full extension is like 6 inches (the length of lever).

Some people WAY overthink shit don't they?



Meaning zero offense of course

 

23rd

Absolutely not a fight.
But let's be honest. It's a rack support/guide. It doesn't have to take a direct hit from a Russian mortar round.


As far as 1 inch .120 wall not being up to the task... what task? Almost all of the load is moving side to side. The load is on the heads of the 3/4 bolts, pushing/pulling the rod through the bronze bushings.


Now... as far as taking a hit... which is what the support /guide is there to protect. If the 1 inch DOM rod "isn't up to the task" neither are the 1.25 DOM steering links, or the M10 bolts holding the rack guide to the frame, at the (former) sway bar mount location... and about that sway bar mount on the frame... it's only about 10 gauge sheetmetal. And how bout the legs that extend from the (former) sway bar mount location? Those legs are 1.25 .120 DOM. And if I took a hit that was going to bend that 1 inch .120 wall bar in the rack guide (without bending all of the other shit associated with the mounts)... it would have to first bend the actual steering rack shaft it's self.

 

It’s not “bending” that’s the issue. It’s deflection. Which is exactly what that DOM will do and it’s exactly what you’re trying to stop….

 

LMAO... you do realize, in this particular case, bending and deflection mean the same thing.... Right?

Deflection Definition: Deflection is the measure of bending caused due to a load or force in an element.


You also realize that plenty of people run trucks with no rack guide... Hell, the vast amount of people outside this thread probably don't even know what a rack guide is. The rack guide helps to support the rack. It doesn't need to be stronger than the rack. And it sure as hell doesn't need a rod that is stronger than all of the other parts surrounding it.

 

40” trailing arms and and 16” coil overs

 

I think the argument here is over plastic vs elastic deformation. A bigger rod would be more resistant to plastic deformation than a small one, but would a bigger rod just make something else plastically deform first? IDK, ill let you two argue over that one.

 

A bigger Rod solves ALL issues...

 

Rod too big and stiff, can't turn my steering wheel.

 

1” .120 DOM isn’t very strong and bends easily.

Material aside the biggest flaw with using DOM tubing instead of a case hardened rod is that the tubing will never be true unless it’s Blanchard ground. The non ground tubing will constantly bind inside of the brass bushings creating a bunch of resistance which is going to drag the PS pump down. For this reason alone the case hardened shaft is a much better choice than DOM.

Also lubricating the slide rack through the zero fittings with grease with eventually hydro lock the slide rack. You need to use WD40 or tri-flo

 

Post of the Day Right there....

 

Again... the question is... how strong does a rack guide have to be? What is going to bend the tube? Other than a perpendicular load to the bar?

If you get a perpendicular load to the bar, strong enough to bend a 1 inch .120 tube, it's already strong enough to bend the legs extending from the frame to the outer shell of the rack slider, or bend the sway bar mount that is attached to, or break the M10 bolts that bolt it to the sway bar mount. Or... more probably... the 1.25 .120 steering links. And also, to bend the bar you would also have to have enough force to ALSO bend the steering rack shaft.

As far as trueness... The bronze bushings are more likely not to be true than the straightness of the bar.

You're just grasping at straws on the hydrolock. That's just funny. You would have to have a single opening with an uncompressible material in the chamber to accomplish a hydrolock.

A) Grease is compressible
B) In this application both ends are open... open enough for grease to flow out the outgoing side, and air to be sucked in the inward moving side... and there is no head/end to get hung up to cause compression/hydrolock.




All these engineers in here... and now we have witnessed a completely wrong use of the word deflection AND hydrolock

 

Not sure why you are getting so defensive? You do realize I have personal built over 100 of these things? I’m simply here offering you free advice as someone that has a ton of experience with these things.

 

I'm not over defensive. But you are simply over thinking this. You've built 100 of these things? Cool... I'll bet you've built a bunch of bypass hoops for 1st Gens too.

That you sold with a completely wrong description of,
And told people that they were wrong when they said it doesn't fit a 1st Gen the way the descriptions says it does.
And then you changed the description on your webpage
And the picture of the item on your webpage, to cover for it

How do I know this?

Because that's MY truck... and MY hand... bro.






But back to the rack slider. It's there to be a guide. It's not there to be as strong, or stronger than the rack. Just simply there to add support. The forces you are claiming simply either don't exist (hydrolock) or are that where if that rod was made out of a Ma Duece barrel, there are plenty of other points of failure in that area that it would be over kill for that one part of the assembly.