A/C compressor locked up: $2600 for complete replacement of system???

Well, I just replaced the compressor and clutch with oe and had my radiator guy do what he does. All in was 1k give or take

 

It was long ago but my 88 Chevy Celebrity AC didn't kick on much less work (bought the car used and couldn't test prior). Guy I knew back then did building HVAC and hooked the gauge up, 0 PSI.

The car had sat for a couple of years so he said for the $12 you could always buy a can of refrigerant and see what happens. I did. Worked pisser, never had any issues for the 4 years I had the car.

Not sure re the newer system etc but maybe try it if you didn't already?

 

Awesome - thanks!!

My approach at this point is definitely something like:

Take a second look at the clutch thing, compare it to my other Toyota, picture and update the forum..
Check my assumption that the refrigerant has leaked out.

At that point, there's a number of paths, but the best realistically possible scenario would be that there's some chance the compressor is OK, it's not coming on because the refrigerant leaked out due to time and/or degraded o-rings. (Similar to my Jeep was)
Then I can start pulling hoses at some point and hope that I can get a good enough sample of oil to examine for metal fragments and go from there...

And the worst actionable case (meaning, if the evap is bad - I'm living with no A/C for the foreseeable future until I can set aside enough time to disassemble the dashboard) being that the compressor is locked up and blown out with metal in the system where I'll be looking at talking to a professional shop to flush the system for me before I buy everything and change it out, vac the system and confirm it holds and then add in oil and R134A... which means probably this summer is no A/C, but hopefully will get me set up for the next few years with it....

 

Hahaha - this has crossed my mind for sure is isn't off the table by any means.

However, one can't just release refrigerant into the air -- legally anyway -- so it's possible that I still have refrigerant in the system.. in which case "how much" will determine whether that's a practical approach or not.

If the system has some but not enough to allow the cut-off to enable the compressor... yes.. that's a real viable option.

If the system has zero - and assuming the system is original on a 15y old vehicle.. even if the compressor might be fine, that might work for a short time. However, if the refrigerant leaked out, it's going to keep leaking out.. but worse --- likely air got in.

If air got in, and I'm in a situation where I don't have to go to a professional shop to evacuate the system... then I'm checking my condenser to see if I can change the dryer element... and if I can.... I'm definitely going to want to spend a few bucks on new o-rings and and a new dryer element FIRST... which means pulling the hoses which gives me a chance to maybe get an oil sample at that time as a second checkpoint.
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Then, I'd be putting new o-rings on to ensure it doesn't leak out there just because it's cheap enough to do even if I'd have to do it again later... ..... AND... more importantly, ensuring the dryer element stuff is fresh.
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Once the dryer element has been exposed to air - it loses efficiency rapidly - so you always want a fresh one any time you open the system exposing it to air. I went through at least 3 by the time I was done with my Jeep... but at under $10 a pop... it wasn't that big a deal to me.
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However, if the dryer is internal to the condenser and I'm looking at a situation where my choice is -- open the system to do new o-rings and therefore need to do a new condenser to do it "right" or "throw a can or two of refrigerant in there and see what happens"... Yes... I'd definitely be thinking the latter is a viable choice.

 

Or in other words - I have A/C gauges and a vacuum pump already... I have to go dig them out of storage, but I probably have to do that no matter what.
If I dump a bunch of refrigerant into an empty system that will hold it and then have to go replace any part of that system that opens it up... I've just created an extra step that wasn't present before... Legally I'd then have to go get the system evacuated before I opened it up which means a trip to a shop and paying them to do that for me.

So that's the main reason why it's not in my interest to just willy-nilly dump refrigerant into the system without having a better idea of what the state of that system is.

That said.. it's awesome that that worked out for you on the old chevy!!

 

I definitely agree it wasn't the "best idea" per se. Were it that I owned the vehicle a while and it had worked at some point in my ownership, or that it was worth a decent amount of money versus the $200 I paid for it, perhaps I would have gone another route once my guy diag'd the 0 PSI.

Had I had a leak in the system shortly thereafter I'd have addresed it at least as far as getting a shop or my guy to trace it. Bear also in mind mine was the old R12 system, he theorized (it would seem correctly) one or more seals hardened from lack of use and were okay once charged.

 

This

 

No judgement was ever intended lolol. Only meant to explain why I'm not at that point yet and why.

 

None was or shall be taken, my friend. If it happened to my truck now I don't think I would do what I did then

 

OK, definitely some unexpected findings on my A/C system.

I'm not including a pic since I can say with good confidence that the rubber dampner has separated on the clutch. That was expected.

I haven't had a chance to grab my gauges yet so no hard numbers, but there is definitely refrigerant in my system.

I blipped the valve and heard the sound of pressurized gas. It's hard to say anything definitive beyond that, but i felt it seemed weakish - but then repeated the test on my Jeep which worked OK not too long ago and that sounded even weaker. Conclusion - possibly a good level of refrigerant in the truck but definitely not empty.

So next unexpected thing was that i WAS able to to turn the hub on the compressor and it felt comparable to turning the hub on the Jeep in the same way. My best guess on that is the rubber dried out and when i turned it the first time it sheared and vibration from driving finished the separation.

So all things considered, i would guess this suggests that something is broken with how the clutch is triggered to engage or some sensor is bad invoking the cutoff. It might work if i could get the clutch to engage but even if could, that's not great idea I'd assume because without the dampner it's only a matter of time before I'd blow out the compressor, right?

So what's my next step here?? I'm guessing gauges to get a reading on the pressure so i can figure out if it's legitimately cutting off the clutch due to insufficient pressure.

Then what are my options on the compressor? Is there a way to replace the clutch without opening the system? I would guess that's probably no.

Finally, if i find the refrigerant level is low and that's probably the reason for the clutch not engaging.. Would then want to add some R134 to get the pressure over the cutoff and see if the compressor kicks on but just long enough to confirm before possibly dealing with EVAC/new parts / VAC and fill?

 

Sounds like your on the right track.
You could briefly jump out the pressure cutoff switch and see if the compressor kicks on without adding refrigerant to the system, if it does this would tell you that the system is basically empty (or the switch has failed which is rare) and the electrical part of the system is good.

If your lucky it just needs a clutch and maybe some refrigerant, worst case the compressor has failed internally.

 

Found this thread looking for A/C info for my 2005. A/C worked last summer. Don't use it much in the fall/winter/spring here in Ohio.

I did notice the A/C light blinking during the winter, I figured when the A/C kicked on for defrost. Anyway I just it had lost the charge again. Bought it used 5 years ago, had to add a charge when I got it. Has worked fine ever since.

This is what I have done so far;

I had a can of 134, so I hooked that up with the engine off. Did not add any but found the pressure in the "red zone" on the cheap pressure gauge that came with the 134.

I can turn the compressor with the engine off. Put a paint mark on the compressor shaft so I could tell if the clutch works at all. When I press the A/C button in the cab I cannot get to the front in time to see the shaft turning, but the paint mark has moved.

I unplugged the sensor in the high pressure line. I start the engine, engage the buttons, the clutch does not engage. When I plug the sensor back in, the clutch activates, I can see the compressor runs for a couple seconds, then stops. Not long enough for any of the lines to get hot or cold.

What I need to know;

I am pretty sure there in a low pressure sensor someplace, but I cannot find it.

Any other ideas where to look would be helpful. I am pretty sure the issue it electrical rather than mechanical or lack of 134.

We have a bunch of squirrels around here they like to chew things. One chewed an ABS wheel speed sensor wire a couple weeks ago.

Thanks,

John

 

Step one is verifying the amount of refrigerant in the system. That's hard to do without a machine or set of manifold gauges. There are hi/lo pressure switches that will lock out the system if it doesn't see the pressure within a normal range

 

My friend just had the compressor replaced for $1200. I think $2K is dealer steep.

 

If it turns out you need a new condenser, source a Denso one at the parts store. Same exact part as the OEM Toyota part (Denso), but hundreds of dollars less.

 

You cannot verify the amount of charge, no matter how many qauges you have, if the compressor is not running. The only way to assure a correct charge with the system not running, is to evacuate the system and "weigh in" the proper amount of refrigerant.

When the compressor stops, the system pressures very quickly equalize so the low side will read too high and the high side will read low. This is the reason a properly charged system will show a charge too high on the low side when the system is not running. Which mine does.

I have not yet located the low side pressure sensor. I was thinking someone may have some information in the regard.

There is also a compressor "speed sensor" that I may cause the blinking light. There it a good write up about that here.. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-light-blinking-troubleshooting-guide.440200/

 

That's why i said machine. Most guys don't have one, a set of manifold gauges can get you some helpful info if you know what to look for

 

They have been trying to force all repairs only be done at the manufactures dealers for some time now.

All kinds of interesting plans that in most cases have not been made to law yet .

 

I know back in 2000 both the high and low pressure switch ( it is a combination unit ) is on the the Evap coil did they move .

I really don`t know

 

On 2nd gens the high/low pressure cutout switch is on the liquid line below the radiator support and the evaporator temperature sensor (for freezup prevention) is on the evaporator.
Neither one of these would cause the A/C light to flash though.
The flashing A/C light happens when the A/C Amplifier does not detect the correct signal from the compressor lock sensor when it commands the MG CLT relay on.