DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

same thickness

 

So... I already know how this is going to go.

I have a Diamondback SE already, with the frontrunner stuff already installed with 2 cross bars.

When I bought the cover I did not expect this but now we are talking about a RTT...

The weight of the RTT we are looking at is roughly 120 lbs. Now DB says the Haul Capacity is 400lbs for the cover

The wife, I and the dog with the tent will be around 600 lbs.

I can not imagine that 600 lbs will break anything on the SE cover. I am ordering a 3rd cross bar just in case though.

Does anyone have anything to add aside from "Should have got the HD"?

 

When DB says Haul Capacity of 400lbs, I assume that id dynamic load and not static load. Although that is spread across the entire surface of it.
600lb static load should be fine in my opinion on the SE.

3rd cross bar is a good insurance item though.

 

Just discovered this thread after owning the HD on a short bed for over two years now, after slow scrolling over the last couple of days I realized I definitely want to add L- Track to my cover.
Saw some people install them to the sides and most install on top. Was patiently waiting for someone to come up with a spacer system to match the locking mechanism height but that never happened in this thread at least ...

So the 4' l track with rubber gasket and black silicone is still the way to go?

 

I added 4 single black e track mounts at each corner on the lid. but as close to the edge without a screw ending up inside on the under side supports. It works for my needs. if I go camping I strap down my yeti 65 on the front half and my full size 35" spare on the rear half. I'm happy with it but I just needed good strap points and each is rated for 1000lbs. I can post pics if it helps anyone.

 

Pics please

 

I've been doing a lot or research about Diamondback covers and what kind of setup I want to use on my truck. I think I've figured out what, but have a few more questions for anyone who can help.

I want a cover + front runners so I can run a small tent (maybe iKamper Skycamp Mini 3.0) on it for me and my wife (combined weight of 280lbs max). And maybe a few accessories like maxtracks, shovel, etc but nothing super heavy.

At first I though I could get away with the SE but Diamondback recommends getting the HD. I initially wanted the SE because I'm trying to keep the weight of my truck down - I don't want to overload it with unnecessary weight and also don't plan on keeping the tent on the truck when I'm not using it (it's a daily driver)

1) For the front runners - is it worth paying the $90 to get them installed by Diamondback vs doing the work yourself?
2) I was only planning on running 2 rails but I see people are recommending running 3 - with a light tent would I really need 3?
3) I prefer the looks of the cover without cleats but down the road, I might realize that I need them - those should be easy to install later down the road correct?

Thanks!

 

1) For the front runners - is it worth paying the $90 to get them installed by Diamondback vs doing the work yourself?

It’s worth it if you don’t have the time, tools and/or know how to confidently install the FRO (Front Runner Outfitters) tracks yourself. That price seems reasonable.

2) I was only planning on running 2 rails but I see people are recommending running 3 - with a light tent would I really need 3?

I’m running the Roofnest Condor Overland rtt that weighs about 165lbs. (has a similar rtt footprint to the iKamper SkyCamp Mini, I believe) on the FRO Slimline II bedrack setup. That whole setup is on two sets of crossbar legs, but the rtt sits on three sets of the FRO tall tent legs. It’s been a solid setup for camping, off road, and daily driving so far since I changed to the Condor Overland back in December 2021. (Living in an apartment building doesn’t allow for me to remove the rtt off the bed for storage when not using.) If running just the FRO load bars system instead of the bedrack system, then perhaps three sets of the load bars / crossbars are more suitable than two. I’ve seen setups using two and three. I haven’t seen any bad reviews yet for either setup.

3) I prefer the looks of the cover without cleats but down the road, I might realize that I need them - those should be easy to install later down the road correct?

You can ask DB customer service if they can reduce the number of pre installed cleats to a HD cover, like just at the four corners instead of having all twelve. Installing cleats yourself doesn’t seem too difficult, just depends on how much you trust yourself to do it.



A lighter setup with the Tepui Ayer II weighing at about 94lbs. Ran that setup 24/7 as a daily and for camping/trail runs from July 2018 to December 2021.

 

okay cool photos of your rig but no details?

 

I was having issues with my phone. I eventually answered your questions under the 1), 2), 3) via editing. If you need further details, feel free to ask in this thread or a dm.

Bonus is the setup still allows for the front panel to be usable:

 

Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback with me/us.

I'm pretty handy with tools and installation - I wouldn't have any problem installing the FRO, but having them install them guarantees it will be done right (well I hope )

Is it easy to remove/install the front runners when you aren't using them? Example - say one day you don't need the center one, can you quickly remove it?

Sounds like you've had your HD cover for a while - realistically, how often do you uses the cleats to secure things down while traveling?

oh I didn't think about that (eg. being able to use the front panel) - more to think about.

 

If you have about 5-10min, you can easily remove with hand tools or power tools the FRO legs/slats that make up the crossbars. I’d leave the tracks bolted on the DB cover since they don’t really get in the way much being low profile/narrow and set up near the side edges of the cover. Note: this does not include time to remove other items that are attached to the crossbars, such as an rtt.

Depends on your lifestyle, but I’ve found a variety of things to use the cleats for; from securing our family dog on his leash, attaching Christmas lights, securing luggage/boxes for my friend traveling to Nigeria, to hauling airplane parts for delivering to our outside processing vendors… before having the bedrack on top, we also used the cleats to secure appliances and supplies from the hardware stores.

Folding camp tables secured via cleats

Aircraft parts secured via cleats

Pet’s leash secured with a carabiner to a cleat

Random request from friends to help transport their basketball hoops game and popcorn machine home from a church event

Hauling my friend’s stuff to LAX that are tied down to the cleats


Christmas string light velcro’d onto each cleat except the two up front just behind the cab.

 

I just finished installing my @Diode Dynamics SSC2's Pro on the Yakima HD. Of course this is on the @DiamondBack Covers HD. I have a Auxbeam 8 switch installed, and have theigjta set up to do the back lights for markers, right side, left side, or both at the same time. Currently the SSC2's have amber lenses, but soon I'll replace them with white flood lenses.

For the wiring, I wanted to go with no visibility of wires. I drilled a hole through the upper on the passenger side crossbar and ran the wires to the driver side. And then chilled a hole into the Yakima HD post and into the Diamondback HD cover. This way the wires could be ran to the battery side of the vehicle and streamline the wiring from the back to the front.

I ran separate wiring for the right and left side lights as well as the back lights. I allowed for enough wiring to provide expandability if I want to raise the cross bars. The lights are connected through t-bolts on the cross bars and mounted using the provided mounting hardware for the SSC2's Pros. With this setup I can raise the front and rear panels with the lights mounted to them. This also provides lighting at a higher level if I lift the platforms. The SSC2's can pivot to provide a wider range of light coverage in the field. With the SSC2's I can get pretty much 180° side to rear coverage of lighting. I'll provide more pictures but I have the following to provide, and regret not taking more during the build so apologize for that.

 

That sits so pretty. I wish I did a setup like that.

 

Thank you. It's been a lot of work in progress, but it's paying off for sure. You can hook something up the same way or even better I'm sure of it .

The next project is finding a way to quick release the side bars somehow to allow for the front and back panels to rise without unscrewing the hex bolts everytime.

 

The hex bolts to what? We may be able to find a solution for that.

 

The hex bolts that connect the side bars to towers, two on the front, and two in the back. My thoughts are wanting to try and find away to remove the sidebar quickly without needing the allen key to do it.

I'm open to any ideas to tey out.

 

Oh, no wonder I got so confused. The side bars aren’t on in the photos.

The only thing I can think of right now is to put some kind of hinge on the ends so they can move up with the cover. That only works if they are adjustable in length.

the other option is to make some kind of quick disconnects. I would only suggest this when you are always around the truck, otherwise someone might take em.

 

I was thinking that too.. Then I thought about a knee brace I had for my ACL tear, bends only one way.. Center tower, hinge for front and back sides, and quick release mechanism for the HD Towers. That way the front and back panels can lift and operate on the hinges, and then the weight is supported by the brace and the towers. Functionality, utility and ease of use simultaneously and simply beautiful!

 

Sounds like you got a plan all set up already!

Just gotta start mocking up some parts for concept!