AC Evaporator leak

Hey folks!

My AC doesn't cool. I took it to a shop and was told the evaporator leaks and would need to be replaced. Cost around 2k! I'd really like to do this job myself but I'm no seasoned mechanic. I have done some homework and I know it will be a challenge because the entire dash has to be removed to access the evaporator. I priced the parts and they are inexpensive and I would save a ton of money as long as I don't screw it up.
So, initially I thought I would just replace the evaporator, expansion valve, and the heater core while I'm in there and then take it to a shop to have the refrigerant put in. But I've since discovered that there's a lot more to it than that. Discharging the system, keeping the system closed so it doesn't get any moisture, replacing the "condenser", recharging the system?????
I'm a bit more intimidated by this now! I've read through some threads on here but haven't really seen anything that comforts me enough to just jump in and start.
I appreciate any sound advice!

Thank you!

 

i'm normally a diy person but I don't mess with A/C systems. You need a bunch of specialized equipment to work on it properly.

 

Must not be a Toyota Dealer..2k sounds cheap...using aftermarket parts?

 

If it's not cooling it's almost discharged anyway. And there are schrader valves on both AC lines that are used for gauge readings, charging and discharging.

If upon reaching the evaporator you install the new one, that's as 'closed' as you'll ever get. If you can't install the new one for some reason for a period of time, tapered rubber plugs available at the hardware store will keep it closed enough

If your only problem is a leaky evap, the condenser (part in front of the radiator) should not need replacement.

Recharging the system is what you were going to farm out anyway. They will pull a vacuum to insure air an moisture are gone as well as verify there are no leaks. Then they charge the system by allowing the vacuum to pull in the new refrigerant via the gauge set.

 

if OP can get the new evaporator in and the dash apart and back together, that would save a ton of money.

 

Should I only replace the evaporator or would it be wise to replace other parts so I don't have to get back in there anytime soon? I was planning to replace the heater core and expansion valve and I will replace the condenser if that makes sense. I was also considering replacing the instrument panel lights with blue LED but I was told that those may be uncomfortably bright.
The leak was discovered about 8 months ago so I would assume that there's no need to discharge. I really don't know what I'm talking about, just makes sense to me.

 

This.

 

I *think* the expansion valve may be part of the evap, but if it's contained in that area, *I* would replace it.

The heater core might not be a bad idea, but if the cooling system has been well serviced, it may be years from any problems. We don't read about to many of those failing around here, and the truck is only 11yo. You'll have to figure that out.

As I said before, I see no reason to mess with the condenser if the evap is the issue. And it's not under the dash anyway. So if it turns up a problem deal with it then.

Not my style, but it's personal choice.

It could lose enough to not run based on low pressure, but still have enough pressure to cause injury if you're not careful. Consider asking the shop you'll pay to recharge it to discharge it, as they'll capture any refrigerant to recycle.

Me neither.

 

just a vacuum pump and some gauges, hardly would call them specialized. Probably get them for under $150

 

I'd get a second opinion. Do they know where it's leaking at the evaporator? It's not real easy to leak test the evaporator with it deep in the dash.

I'm a big fan of ultiviolet dye added to the system. I've found several leaks that the sniffer never picked up.

I've had lots of AC leaks, but never an evaporator. Of course I've never owned a 2nd gen either .

 

If your 100% it's the Evap....

Getting the dash apart is not hard. It's a big mountain to climb but one step at a time and you'll make it. There is nothing there that a novice can't handle. Go slow, take pictures, masking tape and marker, label everything, save the money! Good luck!

 

Was going to say something along these lines. There's "yep, your evaporator has a leak, you need to replace it"... and then there's "yep, you have a freon leak, and we didn't see it leaking anywhere else, and we can't see your evaporator, so it must be your evaporator leaking!"

I've absolutely seen evaporators leak, even replaced a couple, it's definitely possible. Even did one on a 1st gen Tacoma (which, thank you Japanese engineering, has a freaking access panel in the heater box). Also scared a lot of customers out of it when they saw the bill on basically any other vehicle (virtually guaranteed 10+ hours) and pointed out you can recharge a good many times (assuming it's slow enough to just need a charge/year or less) for that much.

As far as what to use if doing it... I'd 100% go OE on the evap & heater cores. Spectra made mediocre products & went bankrupt a couple years back doing so, and several of the other major players that have picked up that slack a) were hot trash 5 years ago, and b) having to up production combined with the 'rona, rampant inflation, and labor shortages have shockingly not made that any better since then. I'd hate to pull a dash twice cuz I left an old heater core in there, but I'd also have to do some beard-stroking over whether I trust a 15y/o OE core or a new aftermarket core less...

Edit: Oh, and fun tip: whatever way you go, find a way to pressure/vac test the A/C & cooling systems BEFORE YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER. Don't put the whole dash in & cross your fingers. If you have to pick up a manifold set & vac pump, do that. You also may be able to borrow them if you're friendly-ish with a mechanic, lots of people still have them, they usually get not much use since most work is done with an A/C recycle machine. If you're feeling particularly froggy, those two things would also allow you to do your own recharge...

 

I took it to another shop (Christian Brothers Automotive) and this is their diagnosis: "Evaporator Core Is Leaking Freon And System Under Charged (REC REPLACMENT OF EVAPORATOR AND DRIER TO CORRECT ISSUE)"

$2600 total for Evap and Condenser, or just Evap for $1600ish.

 

I already purchased the Evap, Expansion Valve, and Heater core (link below) from Amazon but will gladly send those items back if you think I should use something else. I will order the condenser from RockAuto (link below) unless you have other suggestions.

$61 EVAP CORE/EVAP ASSY - NEW EVAPORATOR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R3QC36

$21 UAC EX 10311C A/C Expansion Valve

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R3TYWM

$74 A-Premium HVAC Heater Core Compatible with Toyota Tacoma 2005-2016, Replace# 8710704060

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBYXT8G2

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...D+WpC/W43fc9eVfbHVhzBlHtielfQTmjesxuDKJJjWg8W

 

There’s a lot to be said about a pro doing it. Where will you be if you do it and it still doesn’t work? What then?
I replaced my condenser, bought the gauges, vacuum pump, scale, other junk. But that was easy compared to your challenge. Good luck with diy.

 

Great question! I would absolutely leave it up to the pro's but I can't justify $2600 for the job. I have the time just not a lot of confidence with a job like this. My truck will be in my garage in Wesley Chapel, FL. I will find a mobile mechanic which I will consult with before beginning to bail me out if necessary.

 

I think you are fine ordering parts from Amazon. Toyota didn't make the original parts either.

 

I'd get the products installed and then go to a shop to have the system recharged. The mistake I made was not lubing the o rings when I put the Evap lines in....Well I can't say it was a mistake yet because I don't know if I messed up the O-Rings (I haven't had the system charged yet) but yeah getting the dash ripped out is probably the chunk of the money. Everything else should be pretty reasonable, New o rings are cheap right?......I couldn't get my AC Evap out of my HVAC box....Mine was not damaged thou so I opted to not replace it. I only opened my HVAC box to see what was inside and clean it cause I'm like that.

Go to RainMan Ray's Shop in Florida! I watch his Youtube channel everyday, I'd love to see more Tacoma's on his channel!

 

Absolutely the dash disassemble and re-assemble is the bulk of that job. The rest is not nearly as hard or as complicated as you're worried it will be. (I say this having been in that spot myself at one point.)

The "opening the system" thing has to do with air and the receiver/dryer and the refrigerant chemical. It's important in that if you expose the dryer element to air it rapidly deteriorates... The dryer is really nothing more than a fancy version of those little packets you find in a bottle of aspirin or your order from Amazon.

So minimizing air in the system, particularly around the dryer is the goal... so you just plan for it and you'll be fine. It's not so precise/sensitive that "you loosen a plug and everything is immediately and completely ruined" type of thing.

The other thing is the refrigerant. It's a gas in the system that moves around... you have to plan around that as well. If your system is empty right now though... well, you don't have to worry about it.

If there's refrigerant in the system though.. you can't "open the system"... aka, release the gas out of it... into the air. That's illegal, so you have to get it sucked out by a professional shop with equipment.

So what you can do yourself easily is take a screwdriver or other poker type tool and sort of "blip" the valve. It's in the line with a little black plastic cap. If you hear gas escape noises - you have at least some refrigerant in the lines.. you'll need to get that sucked out before you can change the parts or disconnect lines or anything like that.

However, if you blip the valve and hear nothing. You have no refrigerant - it leaked out. Now, if you have a plan for the dryer - you can pretty much proceed normally here. Change the parts, etc. etc.

The only thing to keep an eye on is the PAG oil. This will be in certain parts and lines throughout the system. It travels with the refrigerant kind of like the oil and gasoline in your 2-cycle lawn and garden equipment, but it won't leak out easily. And like the gas and oil in your 2-cycle engine, it needs to be at the proper ratio.... So the easy way to handle this is to measure what comes out and try to re-add that same amount back in in roughly the same area...
Again, it's not necessary to be an absolute perfectionist... you need to lose a fair amount of oil to put yourself in risk of friction burning out your compressor, and a little extra oil will make the cooling ability a little less powerful, but so long as you're as close as you can get... don't lose sleep over it.

Then you just plan to connect/expose/open the dryer part as your last step, but otherwise it's just replacing parts like anything else...

The goal at the end is to ensure that everything is sealed up nice and tight while keeping the dryer from contact with the outside air... so if you're doing the evaporator... replace it like you'd do anything else... connect it up then the very last step needs to be the receiver/dryer part.

I'm a little unclear on the Tacomas whether the dryer is sometimes or always internal to the condenser, but it's definitely on the side of the condenser... so by "the dryer part last"... connect your evaporator, hoses, compressor, expansion valve.. all that stuff together nice and tight.. feel free to take your time etc. etc... then.. either connecting the condenser or swapping out a desiccant packet and then you're back to "Closed"....

At that point, it's up to you to take it to a shop to pull a vacuum and add refrigerant or buy a manifold gauge set and vacuum pump and do it all yourself. Harbor Freight special on those is just fine - not too expensive as others have noted.

I chose the "buy the tools" route, but whatever works... it's really not that hard my friend - if you can handle disassembling your dash - you absolutely can handle the rest of the job.

The one and only thing you would need a professional shop for would be the recovery of refrigerant gas before changing parts.... you know... assuming you're not some horrible person willing to disrespect both law and the environment by just letting it out into the air, of course.