05 Tacoma, crank no start -SOLVED-

Hopefully you / we can get it figured out by the weekend.
Tomorrow is going to be a busy day for me. But I’ll try to jump in when I can.
It’s super hard for me to do all this on a tablet, let alone a small phone.

 

I will say, that piggy back system has me a bit nervous.
Not because I think it is the problem, it’s that I don’t know how it works.
I have no idea how it’s tied to the ECU. So we’d be working blind around that…..

 

Yea electrical doesn't seem to click with most people, for me I like it.

I always do Connector # Pin # (Wire Color) when I post so no worries there, it's nice that Toyota has consistent connector numbers so it's easy to do.

Lol it's always so busy around here night time is the only time I really get time to sit down, my Dad farms so when I'm not at the shop I'm helping him or repairing tractors and equipment. You could say I'm "on call" 24/7, I have to keep my hands and mind busy so I hang out here when I can and try to help.

I didn't know they had such a thing, most people get tunes when they go to a boosted setup. We have some brilliant tuners that hang out on here and do custom tunes for people.
Do you have the piggyback installed at the moment? I'd kinda like to eliminate that as a variable if we can at least until we get the PCM back online.

How are you testing them?
I'd rather test with a test light if we can, testing using continuity on a meter isn't very accurate.
Voltage drop is another method but that's kind of hard for most people to understand.

I really can't tell you what page stuff is on in the physical book, everything I have access to is digital.

I don't have one for 05 but if @Dvrich posts a picture of his PCM connectors I can throw some labels on it.

I still don't know how you accomplish what you do with an Ipad and phone, I'd never be able to do this without a PC.

 

Ok here's what we need to check, preferably with a test light.

Fuses (not just that they are good, see if they have power with a test light):
IGN (15A)
EFI (20A)
ETCS (10A)


Powers:
E8 Pin 3 (Blue) (Hot at all times)
E8 Pin 9 (Orange) (Hot in Run & Start)
E8 Pin 7 (Light Green) (Hot at all times)


Grounds:
E4 Pin 28 (Brown)
E7 Pin 26 (White/Black) (2wd Automatic only)
E6 Pin 1 (Brown)
E4 Pin 6 (White/Black)
E4 Pin 7 (White/Black)
E5 Pin 3 (White/Black)
E5 Pin 4 (White/Black)
E5 Pin 6 (White/Black)
E5 Pin 7 (White/Black)
E7 Pin 35 (White/Black)

 

Piggy back is currently not installed. Just the ECM to eliminate issues. I had tested those grounds with an voltmeter so now that I have a test light I will redo it tomorrow.

 

Awesome. Keep us updated.

 

Btw if y'all help me and we figure this out. We will have done what three dealerships and a speciality dc shop couldn't accomplish in five years

 

FWIW that doesn't seem to be very hard these days unfortunately, just have a look at some of the videos from the guys in my sig.

 

I’m not good at this stuff by any means.
You are just as capable as I am Dvrich.
It all started right here on TW for me.

Before I joined TW, I was a parts changer at best.
You’ll learn what you’re interested in.
I think a lot of the problem is, people are not interested in how stuff works.
They just want things to break in an obvious way. It’s not always that simple.

 

My thing is I am a industrial plumber so I specialize in boilers and pumps/pump controls. Low voltage wiring stuff. But I used to be a heavy line mechanic at a gm dealership. And from experience not everyone is like y'all. Not everyone can be that meticulous and detailed to be able to be proficient at dc wiring. It's a specialty for sure. Especially now a days.

 

But with my background I also will never turn away knowledge from someone more experienced then myself. And also I never will give up on a problem. I am starting to grasp a bit of what your looking for but in all honesty I'm just a part changer haha but changing parts and doing actions that y'all are telling me. But I'm ok with that. Maybe someone will learn from my problems and be able to fix their problems.

 

So far, we have figured out that you aren’t getting power to at least 2 of the ECU powers.
And that the source for the powers are controlled by a relay that is controlled by the ECU.
If only we knew the logic of the ECU, then we would know exactly what to look at.
But that information isn’t available, so we are left with checking everything.

Which brings up another topic in shops and technicians. Some shops and techs just don’t want to spend time on long diagnostics. It can be loose/loose situation. Either the shop/tech is shorted in diagnostic pay. Or the customer pays a lot in diagnostic labor. Some shops just don’t want deal with that type situation. So they just “can’t fix it”. If you know what I mean?

 

I hate messing with plumbing lol.

Automotive wiring really isn't all that different, just lower voltage and DC instead of AC but basic electrical theory still applies.

Yea the problem is you have to know electrical and computers to work on today's vehicles or your not gona get very far, they add more wiring, computers, and components every year.

When I first started working at the shop it was much more mechanical than electrical and diag stuff, now over half of what I do involves a scanner, meter, test light, and/or scope and we mostly see vehicles that are 5-15 years old. Dealer guys are working on the latest so they really should be up on how the systems work in order to effectively diagnose them.

Nothing wrong with changing parts, we need people proficient in that too but one should be confident a part is bad before changing it.

This is also true, there's nothing wrong with charging a diag charge but it should be an actual accurate diag not a guess and if the shop is wrong the customer shouldn't have to pay for their mistake.
There are times you have to guess (especially with intermittent problems) but it should be an educated guess based on all the data that is available.

 

I'm not sure where those fuses are actually located. I'm not seeing them in my engine block

 

That's my ECM if someone could pretty please post which connector is which I'd greatly appreciate it

 

EFI (May be labeled EFI MAIN) and ETCS are in the Engine bay fuse box, IGN is in the interior fuse box (Behind the little storage box left of the steering column)

Here you go.

 

I don't see the etcs I may be missing it? But I'll check again.

 

It's in the same row as the EFI fuse like 2 or 3 fuses down from it, the truck would technically run without this fuse but it would be in idle only as that fuse feeds the electronic throttle control.

 

So have power at all but 9 doesn't have power in start or run

 

So you have power on both sides of the IGN Fuse but no power at E8 Pin 9 (Orange) with the key on?