05 Tacoma, crank no start -SOLVED-

Yea and our trucks are simple compared to alot of other vehicles of the same vintage and especially compared to the latest stuff.
We are doing per cylinder spark and fuel control, both direct and port fuel injection (at the same time in some cases), variable cam timing on all cams, variable valve lift and duration, cylinder deactivation, native turbocharging, and some manufacturers are even experimenting with variable stroke engines.

IMO the sweet spot at least for me on the diagnostics side of things is 98 to around 2012. Before that onboard diagnostics was pretty primitive and clunky, after that the tech in vehicles just exploded and it's layers upon layers of modules, networks, sensors, and wiring.

There's a junction connector behind the left kick panel it can be checked at, otherwise you have to get to the connector at the pump.
I'll get it when I get a chance.

 

Your telling my my 05 is simple? There is legit ten miles of wiring in this thing haha used to have like twenty feet in the old trucks. My 78 literally just had 5 or so wires on it haha

 

Well I guess not compared to a 1978 lol but compared to a 2023 absolutely it's simple.

We have about 10 modules vs today's average base vehicle having upwards of 25 and a fully loaded one having over 50.

 

Ya that's true. I remember when I was working for gm and they introduced the Camero which needed bt to read codes off the shops wifi haha.

 

You can check it at the ID2 connector behind the left kick panel, is it stuck on full or stuck on empty?
ID2 Pin 2 (Orange) is Fuel Level Sensor Signal and ID2 Pin 5 (Yellow/Black) is Fuel Level Sensor Ground.

 

It's stuck on empty.

 

The easiest check you can do there is put your test light between the 2 pins I listed above and see if the gauge goes to full, if it does then you will have to get to the connector on the tank and check things there.

 

And if it does and I get power to unit at tank that means that sending unit is damaged?

 

Yea or the float is stuck, here's the resistance specs for the level sensor.

 

I don't have that in my truck I have much less stuff

 

That's what I'm seeing

 

Your on the wrong page, the harness joining connectors are a few pages over.

 

Pretty sure it's going to be the grey connector I circled.

 

That was what I was going to ask. I have more then the books shows but I looked.it up in the back and it said it was grey haha

 

Correction it moved just didnt have it pinned well enough I guess

 

But I don't understand the instructions for testing the fuel sending unit? Am I supposed to bridge those two connections and look for something?

 

Essentially you do the same thing you just did there and see if the gauge goes to full, this tests circuit integrity from the tank to the gauge. I just like using a test light when doing that so if you happen to be on the wrong pins things don't go up in smoke.

The resistance specs are measured on the sending unit side.

 

ah i didn't know what you meant use a test light earlier. i am guessing you meant clip one end on one pin and use probe on other pin. i just stuck my test light across both pins lol
makes more sense the other way

 

Yea it's just safer that way, if you end up on the wrong pins your light lights up or nothing happens instead of shorting something out.
That's one reason I have banana jacks on all my test lights, so I can adapt them to whatever I'm working on.

 

if i have to pull the fuel pump out i'm changing the sending unit. its pointless at that stage not too. if i remember correctly. i had pulled the fuel pump assembly out to replace the actual pump of it with a high pressure pump when i did my urd kit. and the float was free moving. but i also think that when i got hit on the side of my truck before i ever did anything to it was when it stopped functioning