Long Travel BS Thread

You say you want to give "free advise?"

I'll do you one better than free advise. Here's a PRO TIP

Don't change an item completely, and neglect to change the picture and description, on the webpage where it's sold, then tell customers they are wrong when they say they didn't get what they ordered... then cover your ass by using their pictures you stole off their build thread (because you were too f'n lazy to take your own).

 

I’m not really sure what’s got you so upset? We offer 2 different style bypass mounts for the first Gen Tacoma, one is for a standard 8” shock and the other is for the “over cap” style. As soon as we figured out what you had and what you needed we offered you a full refund, to cover shipping and to pay you for your time that was inconvenienced. You were very appreciative and there were zero issues. It’s really strange that you would bring this up months later on a public forum as some sort of insult towards me.

Again I was simply giving you some insight into the slide rack design… I have made over 100 and you have attempted to make one. This forum is about sharing ideas, information and most importantly having fun… let’s just keep it there and stop with personal attacks like calling me “lazy”

 

You’re right dude. Everyone that makes a slide rack is doing it wrong. My bad, my bad.

 

mom and dad and moms boyfriend are fighting

 

I have a radiator/ shroud & a DMZ / harbor freight racing Jack setup FS if anyone is interested:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-2nd-gen-4-0l-v6-radiator-shroud.778272/#post-28815043

 

Reading through threads reminds me why I hardly get on here anymore

 

Oh come on it’s not that bad… or is it…

 

A 3/4" OD tube could be put in the 1" .120 tube up to the location of the threads at each end and maybe even grind down rosette welds in places where the tube won't pass through the bushings or use a lathe to remove any excess material further out on the tube. I'm not sure how much of a tolerance is needed for the bushing/inner tube interaction so can't comment on whether it would make the slider the same as using a precision ground piece of stock, but deflection would be pretty reduced. If you have a lathe a high strength steel rod of 1" or 1 1/4" x 6' would be $45 or $77 or could get a machinist to tap the ends once you have it mocked up with a regular tube. I'm guessing most metal shops will have a thick walled inner tube you could buy too.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/raw-materials/high-strength-1045-carbon-steel-rods-and-discs/

 

At least your junk works and its legit lol

 

true I wasn’t on much during what I call “the dark years”

 

Do you guys like my slide rack? Its the silver box thingy in the middle

 

Definitely made out of too thin of material

 

It’s got internal hydraulic support system though, so it should be fine. You have to periodically check and top those systems off though. So they’re a bit more maintenance intensive.

 

well…it is in the wrong place…

 

Nah he’s got dynamic rear steering. Dumbass couldn’t you tell?

 

I meant the fuel cell...i’m trying to start a new argument and you’re not playing along

 

You mounted it wrong
Everyone knows it’s rear mounted cells or the truck explodes and doesn’t handle off-road

(I’m very much kidding)

 

That’s not a fuel cell, it’s a slide rack mounted on a rear rack and pinion.

 

Who all here has a rear mount radiator? Can you post pics up?

 

Its actually just for looks I obviously fill my spares up with gas for optimum weight distribution the fuel pump pulls from the valve stems duh. (for those curious 85% of cell behind rear axle)