First oil change smells like gas

Anytime synthetic oil is used, it takes the rings longer to seat in which fuel will get passed into your oil. Sometimes I think changing out synthetic oil at 1k miles with new synthetic oil only prolongs the issue with ring seating where in the end you loose performance....this was shown to be true on our buddies engine dyno. Why they don't use a dino breakin oil for the first 500 miles or so beats me.

 

This joke is so original and funny! It definitely needs to be posted in every thread!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/search/16938778/?page=3

 

I recently changed my new '23 at 1000 miles. Oil was black, like yours. I figured just break in oil and that it was capturing loads of particulates so it didn't concern me. I didn't smell fuel though . . . but then I wasn't sniffing it. Under warranty, personally I would just change it again at 4 or 5 k and see how it looks then. If there really is a problem it will only get worse and you will have less of an argument at the dealer.

 

Just for data point sake. My oil at 1000
Miles looked brand new… didn’t smell like
Fuel either.

everything else is speculation let us know what happens. But I would spend the $25 at Blackstone

 

Because they don't want to have to tell you that you need to change your oil in 500 miles. There's no way I would go 10,000 miles on the original oil but I agree that changing it too soon is not a good idea either.

 

My oil at 6k miles still looks pretty clean FYI…

 

This is my thought. Most of us probably did not do our own first oil change and therefore don't have a baseline for a normal first oil change. Why not change it again in 1000 miles and see what that looks like. I think you will get "It's normal" from your dealership regardless of whether it is or isn't.

 

Install a Fumoto valve. After an oil change, drain a few ounces of oil at certain mileage intervals, have a look and compare to previous samples.

 

If you have doubts that this is normal, take it in. Make them explain what’s going on and get it in writing, just in case something is actually wrong and it becomes an issue later.

 

There is an amount of assembly lube that's going to be mixed in with the factory fill. My first change at 1000 miles was black. Each and everyone has been black. It's always been my thought that the oils doing its job by suspending particulates etc in the oil. The filter grabs the big stuff. So when you dump the oil, your dumping the dirt in the oil.

 

He no like this

 

How did you break the motor in? I have had 4 new Toyotas in recent years and every one gets broken in so as to give the best ring seal possible.

 

Personally I wouldn't worry just yet.

That first oil fill is a weird one and could use different oil, could have different assembly lubes mixed in, could have a lot of things.

I would run it another 3000 miles and see what it looks like. Oil is cheap so do a dump and fill, no need to change the filter. Or, get a thin hose and pull some out of the dipstick. Take a look at it then and maybe send another sample to Blackstone.

No reason to suspect that your Toyota motor is going to have an issue. And frankly, if it's as serious as some folks here seem to want to believe that motor is going to pop itself anyways and you get a new one for free, and you don't want to try and save this motor in that case anyways.

 

Really good points here that range from normal to not, so I’ll refrain from weighing in on the technical side beyond noting that fuel smell and dirty oil by themselves aren’t necessarily red flags for a serious issue, even at 1000mi. Driving conditions can also be a variable.

That said, it’s a long-term and considerable financial investment on your part, and it’s also under warranty, so why not have it checked out, for peace of mind. You’re the customer here, so make sure you’re 100% satisfied. And if it does unearth an issue, better to fix sooner than later.

 

Hats off to you for having your A&P ticket and doing these, but using a GE turboprop or turbofan GA or commercial engine as a point of reference for this really isn't a fair comparison. A Lycoming piston engine probably yes. It does speak to your experience though.

 

Listen to what @joba27n said.

 

I appreciate everyone's comments. Thank goodness we have this forum and such knowledgeable contributors.

I reached out to the dealer and spoke with the service manager and the shop foreman, both were left scratching their heads. I've submitted a formal written description to which they are, "escalating to the top" (which means checking on TacomaWorld ) so we'll see what the dealership advises. I assume since any diagnostic work would be on their dime, they'll suggest I keep driving it... Which might actually be the solution.

Thankful to have your input @joba27n and I am certainly not challenging your knowledge and experience but of all the threads I've read, I haven't seen anyone with black oil smelling like gas on such a new truck. Not to say it couldn't happen but it does seem to be rare. Of all the Youtube videos, I've never seen anyone complain about a similar circumstance on their new Tacoma but I have read a bunch of articles about how gas in your oil is bad and a sure tell sign that Satan is returning

My oil filter was actually clean as a whistle. I was considering reusing it because it didn't even have a spec of dirt. The only reason I switched it out was the gas smell.

 

If I'm building engines all day, all week, all month, all year, all decades, I just find it odd that one would have a unique build or treatment. I mean, "Oops, I added some assembly lube to this engine but not the thousands of other engines I was working on" just feels very unlike Toyota.

I mean, this oil wasn't a shade of black. It was black on black and a 9 out of 10 gas odor. Like you said, the oil was doing it's job and it was collecting soot or some kind of contaminant so that's good.

 

I will say that filter looks cleaner than the one I pulled last fall with 9k miles on it. I guess that what extra gasoline in your oil will do.

 

There are 3 modes. Direct injection is used from the startup and throughout all rpm ranges(loads). The amount of fuel injected via DI is being determined by loads.. DI injection happens on the compression stroke.
The ecu switches over to DI only when engine load >75%. So on the highway you can be in 3 different modes