1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

I don't think the 750 supports a 3rd axis

 

Indeed.

 

Damnit. Well so much for in gear ignition correction.

 

You could always replace the RPM axis with it I guess

 

I need that axis for where I want the correction to happen though :/

 

Couldn't you just do a generic correction table?

 

That 3 axis is key though. I'm looking to retard the timing between 2000 to 3,000 RPM at ~2psi in 4th and 5th gear to start

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsY_lwVD40k

 

The most impressive thing about this video is you can read the digital clock
Jk, looking good

 

Haha... yeah.

Hit 14.5 psi last night. I'll be posting videos as I experience peak boost growth.

 

What clutch are you using? After configuring spool assist my setup lights up so fast and hard to 10psi I'm blowing right through an Exedy Racing Stage 1

 

Are you capping it there? I wasn't going to go past 15 and I have everything set up to kill power above that

 

I was wheeling this last weekend and was getting my ass kicked with the engine stalling. Due to the power draw of my winch, air compressor, and A/C. I would have to give it gas to keep it alive.

I was wondering if it would be possible to wire up the electrical load switch function of the HT to the alternator sensing circuit somehow. That way I compensate for any kind of electrical load.

I haven't looked into what the wiring looks like for that circuit and if it would even be possible, but it was just a thought I had.
Anyone got any experience with the alternator sense circuit that could provide any insight?

 

You could probably do a voltage divider for a quick but imperfect fix. Drop 0-15V down to 0-5V and read the analog to say if it's under 12.8V->4.26V or something, trigger an idle up

 

Hm ok. might try and mess with that in the meantime.

Doesn't help that my idle is still all fucked up. After changing the table axis to target RPM instead of RPM, It's not much better. I've messed with the PID with little to no success. I think I'm gonna reach back out to Gabe and see if he has any input. I've still got that surging I had before and it's not a stable idle at all. It seems to have gotten worse with the summer temps increasing.

I'm thinking about pulling the SC and moving the air temp sensor into one of the runners if that might help.

 

Mines still learning but it's been doing great if you want to just try importing the whole idle table.
You may need to adjust your throttle screw a little if it wants to die after first upload (or you can increase the duty cycles by like 20% in the active regions).

 

I'll try out your idle settings, but I already tried copying your PID settings and it seemed to make things worse as far as surging.
Also don't you think things like your idle ignition correction tables would be different since I'm a 4cyl, not the 5vz?

 

Might want to go back to the base map PID then. I set these the way they are after I was already pretty close to correct DCs. I do recall slight adjustments that weren't thought out would cause surge/overshoot
Ignition correction differences I'd think would be minor

 

Garet's Boost Safe Goals Considering Fuel Types Chart
8-12 psi 93 Pump, night time up to 15-20 psi (makes me nervous)
12-20 psi 93 Pump + Meth kit
20+ psi E85

15 psi on pump for the season, cap it there, yeah. I'm in the final break-in stages of the motor. I'm running a semi-synthetic for 400-500 miles, then I'm going to full synthetic. Will absolutely not go above 15 psi before switching to full synthetic.

I wanted to do 30 psi but on E85. I'd run out of injector before getting there.

I have to start critically looking at intake temperatures. I usually save the 12+ psi tuning pulls for night time when I can get some added safety cushion from colder air.

Crappy video bonus:
https://youtu.be/K4W5TtSpAAM

 

Oh, I see you're built.
I think you could probably send it at least to 20 on just 93. You're running a huge turbo which explains the longer spool time in your videos, which also should mean you're not generating a ton of heat with it yet either (and probably never will since you'll be so far from the surge line).
I'm limited to 15 because that's where around the stock rods will crap out.
I do wonder what the true pre-ignition conditions are on these engines are though.


Something I had to put into words for myself: octane is solely for preventing pre-det, nothing else. Richer fuel lengthens burn time, as do lower intake temps, and vice versa. So a lean, hot mixture will burn the fastest and require the most timing retard but make more power because you don't have to start the combustion as far BTDC. Cooler mixes will require more advance and increase your chances of pinging to make similar power. Octane moves the needle of heat igniting the mix before the spark, so if you run an advanced, cold, rich mixture, you lose power but have added pre-ig safety. Do it too much and you have ping. But in fact, some ping (reverse force) is almost always present.