Home Improvement Today?

Thank you <3

 

We could add finer material under the first course kind of sparingly. The strongest wall is built on a super compacted base, so unfortunately I elected to do it the hard way and start at the lowest point in my compacted sub base and then dig-out compacted rock as I get to the higher spots in the sub base. Even though it’s hard as hell to dig it out, doing it this way still leaves my blocks on a very compacted footing vs dusting sand or screenings under a low rock to shim it up. The wall will have a tendency to settle in those spots. That’s just what my engineer said. Either way I doubt my wall will be level enough to care in the end. It’s spot on now, but my patience is running out and I can tell I’m off by an 1/8 here and there over 2-4’ lol. Give me another couple hours doing this garbage and it’ll be off by a lot more.

 

Slow and steady wins the race man. Just remember, if you call it "good enough" your the one that will see every imperfection in it for as long as you own the house. lol

If you want to speed it up go buy 2 10' lenghts of 1/2" black iron. Get some fines while your at it. Set the pipes level. Dig out a little road base where needed. Backfill the pipes with the fines then screed them. Compact the fines with some water and a tamper. Add more fines and screed a second time. Then lay your blocks.

It's just like painting. It's ALL in the prep.

 

WOW. Awesome!!

Are we. Neighbors?

 

looking good

 

Post.

 

Finished our rebar in the retaining wall / cantilevered grade beam

added some 6" PVC sleeves for future garage / studio septic line in to tanks and another for the pump line to dispersal field and aerator line




I'm no structural engineer , but I'll go out on a limb here and say this should adequately carry the deck post out on that cantilevered column lol

 

What 10" "table top" bench saw for everyday/hack owner do you guys like?

 

I saw your post up in the woodworkers page where you were wanting a cabinet saw but things have come up.... what's your limiting factor here? Cost/Size/Portability?
If cost is a factor, buying a 2nd hand hybrid/contractor saw (something with a cast iron top) will be great. You can always resell it later and get your dream saw when things line up again.
If its size/portability, then the jobsite saws from Dewalt saws with the rack and pinion fences (DWE7491). But you can spend lots here too if ya want. Sawstop and even Festool make jobsite saws now...

 

Dewalt DW744

 

Somebody told me You bend that rebar by hand....Is that True?

 

No vapor barrier, rebar or wire mesh? Are you using fiber mesh concrete?

 

No across the board; un-heated space (shop) and 4" non-structural slab (floor).

 

over my head

 

Cost. Wife is yelling and angry now.
I will look used, or continue. Not seen much.

 

Too bad you are on the opposite coast. I sold this setup a couple years ago for $500...



That Grizzly 220v table saw was a beast.

 

Wtf

 

If space/portability isn't a concern watch the used market for an older heavy model with a cast iron top.

I see them fairly often for just a few hundred dollars, usually very lightly used.

 

I bought a house last year that was built in 1993. From what I can tell, the wiring looks good. My question is regarding the line running to the compressor/condenser outside. From the main panel, it's a 2-pole 50 which runs about 10feet including turns to panel outside with a 2-pole 60. All the wiring looks like 10-2 Romex.

- Why is there a 60 outside and a 50 inside?
- arent the breakers too big for 10 gauge wire?