95 clutch replacement

over the past week or two my truck is in dire need of a clutch i was wondering if you guys know where to buy a cheap but reliable clutch. my truck has 191,000 miles and its a 4x4 v6 3.4 5spd and also im planing on doing all the work/instal my self and am wanting to know how difficult its going to be? thanks all info will be great!!

 

This clutch replacement video is for a 4 cylinder Tacoma, and it not super in-depth but it will give an idea of whats involved.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHNNDdxYeT8

 

http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/clutch/toyota/tacoma.html

These are Exedy/Daiken clutches. Good Stuff!

I ran an exedy clutch in my accord I used to have.

I have never done a tacoma clutch but I've done a few vehicles (240sx, FD Rx-7, Sentra B13 SER, and my '97 accord) RWD is much easier than FWD.
Changing a clutch isn't that difficult. Get yourself a 2.5' (yes 2.5 feet) extension for your socket wrench with a swivel, it makes removing the upper bolts much easier. Also use air tools if possible.

Rig up a cradle system out of some 2x4's for your floor jack if you don't have a tranny jack. You can buy a cheap tranny jack at harbor freight tools. I have one and it is worth every penny.

The hardest part is lining the input shaft back up when remounting the tranny. It takes a little wiggling. Make sure you grease the input shaft and the part of the clutch disk the input shaft slides into to make re-assembly easier. Get yourself a Haynes manual, although basic it still provides decent instruction for a novice.

ALWAYS use loctite on your pressure plate bolts, I have seen them back out before. Make sure you torque them in the proper sequence also.

Make sure you pack the throwout bearing with grease really well. When in doubt, add a little more grease. This will help with squeaks later down the road.

 

Bingo. Only thing I will add is use red loctite on flywheel bolts and blue on pressure plate. Proper torque is essential.

 

Good call. I probably should have added this detail. This is correct ^^^

Also get your flywheel resurfaced. Most machine shops will do it for you and charge you $20-50. When I did my accord I actually just bought a new flywheel for $90 and then sold my stock one when I was done since I did my clutch job on saturday night when the machine shops were closed.

 

Took me a while to do mine, but that's because it was my first clutch job and I didn't have a lift to use. It's a wonderful experience though, I'd recommend it.

I got the frame sealant crap all over myself though by the end...that part sucked.

 

I have done serial 85 -91 2wd clutches but this will be my first 4x4.... any pointers you can give me? 94 4x4 Tacoma 2.7

 

I did mine myself a few summers ago. 99 4x4 2.7. If your truck is a Tacoma (95 is the first year lol) I'm sure it's the same. From what I remember, hardest part of the job was the reassembly as per usual. Lining up the bell housing bolts was tricky but having a few other guys around made it possible. I didn't have any major issues aside from the pilot bearing which became two pieces upon pulling the trans out. I used the bread trick to get the old bearing out.

Honestly if you've done 22r clutches this isnt gonna be too different, just a bit heavier. Leave the tcase and trans mated when you take them apart.

Most importantly: Check out Timmy the Toolman on youtube. He has a video for a clutch job of a 1st gen v6, but most of the job is the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PJPZ5-AK-I

 

Thank You!

 

My first was a '94, in 2018 I did my current Tacoma. Both times I should have listened to myself, rent a proper tranny jack. :-D Coming out you can drop the tranny on your chest (it's heavy but you won't die,) going back in you can use jacks and ratchet straps on the frame to hold it in place while you align the pilot shaft. It can be done but DAYUM I should have rented a tranny jack.

Have a manual handy, even a Haynes is better than nothing. There are "hidden" cables you might not see if you don't know to look for them.

In a nutshell the TX and 4X4 come out together, don't separate them. It's a good idea to drain the tranny first but if you're careful (and have lots of rags) you can do it without draining it.

You'll need to remove the shifters from inside the cab, disconnect the front and rear driveshaft/propellers, remove all electrical connections, then with the TX safely on jacks pull the tranny to engine bolts and slowly move it rear and down. Get some sort of support under the rear of the engine so it doesn't droop too much and break something else, like motor mounts.

The really fun part is the tranny to engine bolts. The ones on top are a real treat: Both times I had to drop the tranny/engine slightly and work a series of extensions and universal sockets through the shifter openings from inside the cab. You can't really access them from under the hood, you can see them and maybe get a box end on them but it's just not enough.

If you can get them loose, you can also figure out how to get a torque wrench on them and tighten them to the proper torque going back in.

An aftermarket clutch is fine, just accept it may not last as long as an OEM or upgrade and you'll be back under here again sooner. At the time I had no second vehicle and AutoZone was walking distance, si I went with the best they had. That was in 2018 and is still working fine ('24 now for those reading later.)

Definately replace the rear engine seal, and depending on the shape of your flywheel you may want to pull it and get it resurfaced. Both times mine appeared to be smooth and serviceable so I left it alone.