Automatic Transmission Does Not Shift Correctly

Read this
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/p0705-park-neutral-switch.86096/

 

Ok I am here

 

Unplug it and inspect the pins. That’s easy.
You may see the problem right there.

 

How do I unplug it?

 

Press here and pull up.

 

Thanks I just don't want to break anything.

 

Yea you may have to wiggle and mess with it to get it unplugged, those connectors under the truck tend to get packed with dirt and can be a pain to get unplugged.

Yea that latch can break quite easily so be careful with it.

 

Having a lot of trouble getting it off. It is very corroded with dirt I barely get any wiggle. Definitely going to take some getting to used to working with minimal arm length.

 

If you think it's hard getting the electrical connector off , wait until you have to take the range sensor off .
Most guys bust the sensor into chunks .
Do you have a new sensor in the package ready to install if needed ?
Looks like that truck has been swimming or it lived in Salt for a long time

 

I don't have a sensor yet, thankfully this is my winter vehicle

 

Yeah, if you do have to remove the range sensor.
Do NOT torque on it too hard. There is a seal that goes around the shift rod.
If you damage that seal, you just created A LOT more work.

I’d resort to cutting the nut off before I cranked on it too hard.


(I know you know this gearcruncher. Just putting it out there for anyone else that happens across this in the future.)

 

We will talk about that once we get there haha. How do I test the ohms on this thing and shift at the same time? Can I keep my foot on the break?

On the diagram on post #23 what does Except mean where it says Except R Except P etc. One is looking for under 1 ohms the other over 10.

 

Except means, all other gears.
While testing those pins, all the other gears should read 10k ohm or higher

Basically, your testing each set of pins in all gears.

 

Should the Truck be on ? How do i shift and get the ohm meter into the connector at the same time?

Does not look like any corrosion or anything on the pins.

 

Remember how I said, your abs and back will be sore?
To shift. You crawl out from under truck each time…….or find a buddy and have him shift it for you.

 

Yes has to be key has to be on. truck not running.
Other wise you can shift the shifter.

Or you can use the shift over ride lock.
It’s under the tap you pry off.
Then push down on the white button.

 

Thanks I'm literally so ignorant about this stuff. I have a lot to learn

The connector seems different than the one in the diagram from post #23. I am also having trouble getting the ohm meter pins into the small holes. They fit fine on the two big ones I think there labeled #1 and #2.

 

You don’t test that plug.
You test the one bolted to the truck.


Now you understand why I keep saying it’s a pain in the ass?
At least you’re trying. Most guys wouldn’t even look.

BTW, I see signs of brown crusties already.
I’m not saying that’s your problem, but it’s good you got to it early.
Plus, your weather pack seal is shot. We can worry about the seal later.

Brown staining - Possible issue.

 

Again. You are not test the plug with the “X”.
You test the connection on the switch. Blue arrow.

 

Oh I'm doing this haha no matter how much trouble. I really appreciate you holding my hand through it all.